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  Sweeter Than Equal Temperament (E9) (Page 1)

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This topic was originally posted in this forum: Pedal Steel
Author Topic:   Sweeter Than Equal Temperament (E9)
Bobby Lee
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posted 18 March 2001 01:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
Technically it's out of tune, but I subscribe to the theory that the ear will resolve anything between just intonation and equal temperament. Your milage may vary.

I adjusted my tuning a few months ago to account for cabinet drop by raising my E and B strings to +5 cents. Lately I've been tuning everything right on the tuner marks - none of those +2.5 cents things. It's a lot easier to remember. Every note is centered or plus or minus a mark or two. People without a cents scale on their tuner can use the Hz markings instead.

It's fault tolerent. If something drifts a few cents one way or the other, it won't make a whole lot of difference. Maybe it's not a good idea for people who want to be perfectly in tune, but it works for me.

Here's the chart.



------------------
Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (E9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (F Diatonic)
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Jim Bob Sedgwick
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posted 18 March 2001 08:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jim Bob Sedgwick     
I agree 100% b0b. Your ear can not pick up on a few cents difference on the meter. I say if you sound in tune with the rest of the band, you are in Tune! I could not care less what the tuner says. The EAR rules.
My 2 Cents


chas smith
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posted 19 March 2001 10:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
Without getting too deep into this, we're playing a just tuning over a tempered fretboard for the most part.

Tempered 3rds and 6ths are the most out of tune with their just counterparts, around 15 cents sharp. So I tune my Es, Bs and hi F# to 0, my G#s to around -15, hi D# to -10 or -14, lo F# to either 0 or -10 depending on the cycle of the moon, C#s to -15 or -18, As to -7, Ebs to -10 and Fs to anywhere between -20 and -30.

This is pretty close to the chart above if you subtract 5 from everything.

Really what's important, imo, is bar vibrato which covers the tuning inconsistency.

Carson Leighton
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posted 19 March 2001 11:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Carson Leighton     
The tuning numbers that b0b has posted here are right on the money,IMHO. I have been tuning my steel very close to these numbers for a long time, and they will work in just about any situation, provided the rest of the group is tuning to equal temperament based on A-440. Anyone having problems with their tuning should take a look at this. Another thing, if you'll look at the the notes and their numbers, you can see that most of it can still be tuned beatless. For instance, once you tune the pedal that raises the C#, then simply tune the beats out of the other C#'s. The same holds ture for the A's, B's, E's, etc. As a matter of fact the B's can be tuned to the E's using harmonics at the 7th and 5th frets and the numbers will still be the same. Once the B's are set, then the F# on the first string can be tuned by using harmonics at the 7th and 12th frets. If you want to tune your 2nd string a little flat, just hold down your C# pedal and your E-F lever. This will lower the 6th string a little, (provided you have a little cabinet drop) and now using harmonics at the 7th and 12th frets, tune the 2nd to the 6th. Always listen to the beats between the harmonics, as they don't lie. When you get it beatless, it will come to null point and actually quiet down. Using this method will speed up the tuning process and after a little practice, the whole thing can be done in just a couple of minutes.......Keep steelin'........Carson

[This message was edited by Carson Leighton on 19 March 2001 at 03:35 PM.]



Bobby Lee
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posted 19 March 2001 11:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
Chas, you describe the numbers for just intonation. Those will make your guitar sound wonderfully in tune, but if one of those thirds drifts flat, watch out!

By tempering my thirds to be 5 or 10 cents flat of equal temperament (instead of 15 cents), I can relax a bit. It isn't all that critical. Strings can drift 5 cents in either direction and everything will still be "in the ball park".

------------------
Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (E9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (F Diatonic)
Sierra Laptop 8 (D13), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6)


KEVIN OWENS
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posted 19 March 2001 12:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for KEVIN OWENS     

I think vibrato should be used as an effect, not to cover up being out of tune.
just my 2 cents

Kevin

C Dixon
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posted 19 March 2001 03:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for C Dixon     
Have to go along with Kevin on this one.

In fact I do NOT vibrato until after the picked note(s) have sustained for a moment of time. I used to, but after watching many of the greats, I began and have succeded in vibratoing only after the note has been picked. And so no way could vibrato cover being out of tune.

In fact even with vibrato it seems the ear would still hear the relative "Out" at any given instance of time.

Also, JI has NEVER been proven to be "IN tune"!! The fact that a person's ears loves to hear "NO beats", does not in itself mean that it is correct.

I still lean to the belief that ET is more correct. But our ears don't like it. It does seem that as musicians become more and more cultured to music and tuning, the more they tend to lean towards ET. As bad as it sounds initially.

Here is on of the things that leads me in that belief. JI is about as far from A-440 reference as most musicians EVER get. Yet many are somewhere in between JI and ET. Some more some less. So I have a problem with this. IF, one player tunes his C#'s to -10, another to -9, another to -8 and so on, somethin's gotta be wrong.

My point being, if all players, EITHER tuned JI or ET then the argument takes on real meaning, but that is NOT what happens. It could easily be said that among all players, they lie ANY where between JI and ET (assuming whole numbers) on all strings.

So again, as bad as ET has always sounded to me, I believe with all my heart that it is ultimately correct.

Oh well

carl

Moon in Alaska
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posted 19 March 2001 07:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moon in Alaska     
In the actual playing with other instruments, fudging the bar is far more important than the difference in JI and ET. I can tune either way and play with a good rhythm track sucessful. I normally tune close to B0b's numbers, but have played straight up 440 for a week, My guitar sounds fine as long as I am playing along with other instruments, but lousy alone !!!

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Chuck Martin
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posted 19 March 2001 09:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Chuck Martin     
Bobby Lee,

I noticed that most of your notes have the same tempering regardless of the string, pedal or knee lever where they occur. The exception seems to be the F# which varies widely from -5 to 0 to plus 5. Why is that?

Thanks, Chuck

chas smith
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posted 19 March 2001 10:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
I should have been more specific about the vibrato covering tuning inconsistencies. If the guitar is out of tune, it's out of tune.

We're playing a non-fixed-pitch instrument with paralax. My experience in playing with other people is, not everyone is always in tune, so a little vibrato helps out. Listen to the string section in an orchestra for example.

quote:
Also, JI has NEVER been proven to be "IN tune"!! The fact that a person's ears loves to hear "NO beats", does not in itself mean
that it is correct.

I still lean to the belief that ET is more correct. But our ears don't like it. It does seem that as musicians become more and more
cultured to music and tuning, the more they tend to lean towards ET. As bad as it sounds initially.

Here is on of the things that leads me in that belief. JI is about as far from A-440 reference as most musicians EVER get. Yet
many are somewhere in between JI and ET. Some more some less. So I have a problem with this. IF, one player tunes his C#'s
to -10, another to -9, another to -8 and so on, somethin's gotta be wrong.


I couldn't disagree more, Just intonation and equal temperment are tuning systems, that is, the relationship between notes. Just intonation is based on the relationships of the first 16 harmonics of the harmonic series, with the exception of the traditional tritone, which is the distance between the 32nd and the 45th harmonics. All of these ratios are consistent regardless of the fundamental, which could be A-440. The fact that they occur in nature, are harmonious to the ear and can be represented as small number ratios, at one time was used as proof of the harmony of the universe and these ratios were at times used by architects, giving rise to the phrase that architecture is frozen music.

Equal temperment, 12 equally spaced tones/octave, is a tuning system used primarily on fixed pitch instruments like pianos, that came into vogue in western music around the 17th century. The main reason being, so that a piece of music could be played in different keys and still sound the same.

Each of these systems is equally valid in context. Choirs will sing and non-fixed-pitch instruments will naturally play in Just, but add a piano, and everyone has to adjust to tempered tuning.

[This message was edited by chas smith on 19 March 2001 at 10:40 PM.]

[This message was edited by chas smith on 19 March 2001 at 11:20 PM.]



Sage
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posted 20 March 2001 12:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Sage     
Strangely enough, due to the extreme advance of technology the keyboard (which has been at the center of ET) is no longer a fixed pitch instrument. I believe that many good synths can be set up to play in JI. We just don't even think about asking the keyboard player to rig their unit this way, and go on perpetuating the useful, but limiting compromises of ET. I say pry apart the notes and let the wolf out again!
And thanks b0b for your tuning chart. It makes a lot of practical sense. Organic Fudge.

[This message was edited by Sage on 20 March 2001 at 12:49 AM.]

[This message was edited by Sage on 20 March 2001 at 12:56 AM.]



Dave Horch
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posted 20 March 2001 07:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave Horch     
quote:
Choirs will sing and non-fixed-pitch instruments will naturally play in Just, but add a piano, and everyone has to adjust to tempered tuning.

Bingo!
also... "frozen music" - liked it!

B0b; Is this near to the Non Critical Tuning (NCT) you mentioned a few months back? It appears to be...


Pharaoh
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posted 20 March 2001 07:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pharaoh     
Sage: on more advanced keyboards, you can select your intonation and adjust it in any way you see fit. And for that matter, you can certainly tune an acoustic piano to any notes you want to!

My keyboard rig consists of mostly "vintage" type keys - a combo organ (either a Vox Jaguar, a Farfisa VIP600 or a Kustom L1295,) a Moog analog synthesizer, and a sampler with Mellotron flute, strings, and choir samples. These keyboards are NEVER in tune to ANYTHING else in the band. But I throw some vibrato on the Moog, and some Leslie on the organ, and it sounds great! I was in a band once where we tuned down a half-step, and I had to learn how to play with all them little black keys! Imagine doing all your songs in Ab or Db...

Anyway, I agree that bar vibrato will go a long way towards evening out any minor tuning discrepancies. However you tune, if you like it, then it's right.

My 2¢
Matt Farrow

------------------
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Alan Shank
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posted 20 March 2001 08:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Alan Shank     
How come you tune the G's to +10?


Bobby Lee
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posted 20 March 2001 10:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
quote:
I noticed that most of your notes have the same tempering regardless of the string, pedal or knee lever where they occur. The exception seems to be the F# which varies widely from -5 to 0 to plus 5. Why is that?
The F# is a dilemma that we all have to deal with at some point. It wants to be tuned to either the B or the C#, which are tuned differently. This is why many players use "compensators" to adjust the F# strings with pedals down to be in tune with the C#.

I took a different approach. My middle F# is tuned to the C#. When I lower my E strings, I raise the F# to be in tune with the B. I don't think that this is superior to the A+B compensators. It just fits my playing better because I use the F# more often with the D than with the B. When I play F# and B together, I always have my E's lowered.

Regarding the high F#, I just tune it to 0 as a compromise and don't bother with compensators. This bothers some people (like Carl), but it sounds okay to me.
quote:
How come you tune the G's to +10?
I mostly use the G as a dominant 7th with pedals down. The 7th is a minor third above the 5th. JI theory says that minor thirds should be about 315 cents wide, so the E to G interval must fall between 300 (ET) and 315 (JI) cents. By tuning to +10 cents, that minor third is in the ball park whether the E is at +5 (pedals up) or 0 (pedals down with cabinet drop).
quote:
Is this near to the Non Critical Tuning (NCT) you mentioned a few months back?
Yep. The main change I've made recently is to accomodate 5 cents of cabinet drop. Also, by using just 5 "notches" on the tuner, it's simpler than ever. People who don't have a cents scale can use the Hz markings and get similar non-critical results. They'll just be a cent or two closer to equal temperament than I am - not enough to make an audible difference.

------------------
Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (E9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (F Diatonic)
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Bobby Lee
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posted 20 March 2001 10:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
Disclaimer time again. If you tune to this chart your guitar will be out of tune. It will not be "correct", and you won't sound like Paul Franklin, Lloyd Green or Buddy Emmons.

It works for me, but if it doesn't sound good to you don't use it. Jeff Newman's chart will get you more in tune with yourself. Tuning everything to 0 will get you more in tune with the piano and guitar.

This tuning system is flat-out wrong, so don't blame me if you use it and it doesn't sound in tune. I warned you!



chas smith
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posted 20 March 2001 11:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
I actually try to tune to the 60 cycle hum from my amp, I consider that to be the best part of my sound.


David Pennybaker
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posted 21 March 2001 07:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Pennybaker     
quote:
Strangely enough, due to the extreme advance of technology the keyboard (which has been at the center of ET) is no longer a fixed pitch instrument. I believe that many good synths can be set up to play in JI. We just don't even think about asking the keyboard player to rig their unit this way, and go on perpetuating the useful, but limiting compromises of ET. I say pry apart the notes and let the wolf out again!

A couple of comments on that. My Korg T3 has the ability to change tunings on it. I've played around with it some. That's the extent of my knowledge on the subject, other than a somewhat partial knowledge of the mathematics behind it all.

First, the keyboard player would have to adjust his tuning for every song. If the song's in C, he'd have to select the just intonation tuning for C. If the song's in G, he'd have to select teh just intonation for G. Etc. If the song changed keys (typically for the last verse or chorus), he'd have to change tunings in the song. And I don't know WHAT he'd do when he played one of those songs that modulates between C and G and back to C, for example.

Second, I tried playing for a while using JI on the T3. And, yes, I was tuning it for C and playing in the key of C. To me, it just sounded awful. For some reason (and I don't know why), piano-type sounds just don't sound right in JI -- even though stringed instruments do.

I wish somebody could explain why. It seems to me that if I'm playing in C, and have the tuning set to JI for C, it should sound OK. Different, but OK. Hmmm, maybe Korg screwed up the tunings -- LOL.

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Bobby Lee
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posted 21 March 2001 10:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
The problem with JI in C on a keyboard is that you would need two D notes. Try using meantone - it's sweeter than ET, but doesn't require more notes. I use meantone on my F Diatonic and it works really well.

I'd also like to point out that both JI and meantone are lousy for jazz. Jazz is made for equal temperament, IMHO. It has the diminished and augmented chords which cannot be tuned properly outside of the 12 tone ET system. That's why I tune my back neck to ET.

------------------
Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (E9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (F Diatonic)
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chas smith
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posted 21 March 2001 12:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
quote:
It seems to me that if I'm playing in C, and have the tuning set to JI for C, it
should sound OK. Different, but OK. Hmmm, maybe Korg screwed up the tunings


It shouldn't sound that much different, in fact it should sound better, something isn't right. The extra note that Bob is referring to is the 10/9 major 2nd that isn't desperately needed. Meantone, at the end of it's cycle is out of tune by 81/80, the Comma of Didymus.

I have an instrument, made from aluminum tubes, two octaves of 45-tones/8va, tuned in just, based on G. If I play the 1/1, 6/5, 45/32, 5/3 diminished 7th chord, there are no beats in it. This is not a practical instrument to play, however.

David Pennybaker
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posted 21 March 2001 02:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Pennybaker     
quote:
The problem with JI in C on a keyboard is that you would need two D notes. Try using meantone - it's sweeter than ET, but doesn't require more notes. I use meantone on my F Diatonic and it works really well.

I'm not quite sure why you'd need 2 extra D notes (even after Chas' explanation). Why aren't they needed on a guitar that's tuned to JI?

I'm not really that familiar with "mean tone".

Also, I'm not positive what actual tuning the T3 was using. As I recall, you could select between ET (obviously), and a bunch of tunings simply called Cmaj, Cmin, C#maj, C#min, Dmaj, Dmin, etc. I guess I've always assumed those were JI tunings (at least the maj ones -- which may NOT have actually had the "maj" designator -- eg, it may have just been C, Cmin, C#, C#min, etc).

------------------
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Bobby Lee
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posted 21 March 2001 05:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
You need two D's for the same reason that you need two F#'s on an E9th pedal steel. One D is tuned to the G, and the other is tuned to the A. If you tune the D to the G, it will be out of tune with the A (in JI).

By the way, a standard guitar is an equal tempered instrument, in theory. It tries to be one, anyway.


chas smith
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posted 21 March 2001 11:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
Bob,
Good points. The 9/8 tunes to the 3/2, the 10/9 tunes to 5/3.
chas

[This message was edited by chas smith on 21 March 2001 at 11:43 PM.]



Bobby Lee
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posted 22 March 2001 09:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
I don't tune to JI, but anyone who wants to follow what Chas is talking about should probably take a look at this page.


Birney Bull
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posted 22 March 2001 01:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Birney Bull     
b0b,

It's probably right under my nose somewhere, but could you explain what the ratios in the JI tuning refer to? For the life of me, I can't figure out how to tune a string to a ratio!

Thanks!

chas smith
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posted 22 March 2001 01:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
The 'normal' just scale is:

1/1, 16/15, (10/9, 9/8), 6/5, 5/4, 4/3, 45/32, 3/2, 8/5, 5/3, 16/9, 15/8, 2/1

where these numbers come from are the harmonics in the harmonic series and these ratios represent the intervals between them.


16- C
15- B
14- Bb
13- A
12- G
11- F#
10- E
9 - D
8 - C
7 - Bb
6 - G
5 - E
4 - C middle C
3 - G
2 - C
1 - C

this extends from C below C below middle C to C above C above middle C. These numbers not only represent the relative positions of the harmonics, but also their mathematical relationsip to each other. For instance: the octave in the above scale is 2/1, which is the distance between the 1st and 2nd harmonics, and the frequency of the 2nd harmonic is 2 times the 1st( A-440 is an octave above A-220 is an octave above A-110). So 4/2 is an octave, 8/4 is an octave, 6/3, 14/7....

The perfect 5th, 3/2, is the interval between the 2nd and the 3rd harmonic and if you wanted to know the Just G above middle C - 261.6hz (from the tempered A-440 scale), multiply 261.6 times 3/2 = 392.4hz. You'll notice that there are other 5ths up there: 9/6, and 15/10 which reduce to 3/2, but then there's 13/9 which doesn't and this is the reason for the 10/9 major 2nd in the scale. The Just A above C-261.6 is 5/3 = A-436, the Just D, 9/8 = D-294.3, a perfect 5th below A-436 is 2/3 = D-290.6, so now we need two Ds, one for the A and one for the G.

A 5th below, such as F below C, a 4th above such as F above C. 4ths invert to 5ths invert to 4ths: 2/3 is a 5th below, an octave above that, 2/3 x 2/1 is 4/3. An octave below (1/2) G, 3/2 x 1/2 is 3/4. A 4th above is 4/3, a 4th below is 3/4. Minor 3rds invert to maj 6ths, maj 3rds invert to minor 6ths, maj 2nds invert to minor 7ths, minor 2nds invert to maj 7ths.

Both Just scales and tempered scales are symmetrical. A minor 2nd up 16/15 a minor 2nd down 15/8 (8/15); a maj 2nd up 9/8, a maj 2nd down 16/9 (9/16)....a P5 up 3/2, a P5 down 4/3 (2/3). The center point is the tritone, and on Temper scales, (12th root of 2 to the 6th power) it's dead center between the octave.

I need a break

[This message was edited by chas smith on 22 March 2001 at 01:29 PM.]



b0b
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posted 22 March 2001 03:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for b0b     
I hate to get into this again because this topic wasn't supposed to be about JI, but since you asked, Birney Bull...

The ratio numbers describe the relationship between two frequencies when we tune by ear. If your E is 330 Hz and you tune your A to it by ear so that there are no beats, the A will be 330 x 4/3 = 440 Hz.

It's really just more obscure information to clutter your brain, though. Knowing the ratios won't help you get in tune. Listen for beats or tune to a meter, and don't worry about the math.

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chas smith
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posted 22 March 2001 10:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
True, it's not practical knowledge, but I just think this stuff is fascinating how it all fits together and it's part of the history.

By the same token, when I took up the steel guitar, I wanted to know as much about it and it's history and how it evolved as I could.

Sometimes I just want to push the brake and stop the car, other times I want to know how the brakes work.

So, I'm sorry,'nuff said

[This message was edited by chas smith on 22 March 2001 at 10:06 PM.]

[This message was edited by chas smith on 22 March 2001 at 10:41 PM.]



Bobby Lee
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posted 23 March 2001 08:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
No problem, Chas.


Bob Hoffnar
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posted 23 March 2001 10:31 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bob Hoffnar     
I enjoy the study of this stuff also but in many practical ways it will just make you crazy.

For whatever reasons:
1) My tuning changes from steel to steel.
2) Beats out open is not the same as beats out at the 9th fret.
3) If there was a perfect world and it actually was possible to perfectly tune a steel it would still sound out of tune when I played it unless my ear was happening.
4) Different strings of various ages need to be tuned differently.
5) On occasion I have found some pedalsteels impossible for me to get sounding in tune. If the overtones ring past the 5th or 6th partial while losing the first 3 it never sounds sweet to me.

It is great to study this stuff and I do think it helps me quite a bit. But, (and its a big butt ! ) ultimatly you gotta trust your ears.

Bob

Bobby Lee
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posted 23 March 2001 12:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
Great points, Bob. My strings are old about half of the time. I can't seem to keep new strings on all of my guitars (imagine that!). This non-critical tuning method really helps me, because even though I'm always "out of tune" I'm always real close to being "in tune", whichever way you look at it. The little factors like hysteresis, cabinet drop, old strings, different axe, etc. don't bother me all that much.


Birney Bull
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From: Savannah, GA, USA
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 27 March 2001 11:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Birney Bull     
Thanks b0b! Despite the headaches, this is a helpful thread for newcomers like me!


Jody Sanders
Member

Posts: 2889
From: Magnolia,Texas
Registered: APR 2000

posted 27 March 2001 10:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jody Sanders     
During my 55 years of steel playing, I have tuned about every way known to mankind. This is kind of strange, Bobby, but I have been tuning to almost the exact tuning on your chart for a long time and it works for me. Best regards, Jody.


Bobby Lee
Sysop

Posts: 14849
From: Cloverdale, North California, USA
Registered:

posted 28 March 2001 07:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bobby Lee     
I know it's out of tune, but...

I recently did a recording session where I added tracks to 8 songs for an upcoming CD. There was a variety of styles, and in the booth were several good musicians and an engineer with great ears. I used 4 different pickups for the session (it's a Sierra!) and a variety of settings on the amp and on the MPX-100.

There was discussion about the parts and the tone of the instrument, but never once did the subject of tuning come up. Apparently everything I played sounded "in tune" to those critical listeners. The playbacks sounded "in tune" to me, too.

Some people trust their ears more than they trust their tuner. They must have better ears than me! I've reached the point where I feel confident that I will sound in tune in all positions if I tune to these numbers. I've never been able to reach that point tuning by ear, except on lap steel or on very limited pedal steels.

------------------
Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (E9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (F Diatonic)
Sierra Laptop 8 (D13), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6)


Birney Bull
Member

Posts: 105
From: Savannah, GA, USA
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 28 March 2001 10:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Birney Bull     
b0b,

Another dumb question: What do the red and blue colors on your chart mean?

And just to clarify my own, dim understanding, the point of your "non-critical" tuning is to hit a happy medium between JI and ET, sounding reasonably "in tune" in either context (alone or with others), that is also easy to use on a tuning meter, right?

Sorry to have been a pest about the ratios! Your answer told me just enough to: 1. understand what it was about, and 2. realize I didn't need to know any more to be a decent amateur player!

Thanks for a great thread!

[This message was edited by Birney Bull on 28 March 2001 at 10:55 AM.]



David Pennybaker
Member

Posts: 1203
From: Conroe, TX USA
Registered: AUG 2000

posted 28 March 2001 11:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Pennybaker     
Red = raised string
Blue = lowered string

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The Unofficial Photographer of The Wilkinsons




Paul Graupp
Member

Posts: 3199
From: Macon Ga USA
Registered: JAN 2001

posted 29 March 2001 07:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Graupp     
Chas: I'm currently into a book, Acoustics of
Music by Wilmer T Bartholomew, last print was
1956. I've pulled all of your posts in this thread and printed them because between
the two of you, I beginning to see something
emerging in my understanding. Your understanding is a valuable asset to me and I
thank you for that. I sense a difference
between the pure mathematical analysis of
the harmonic series and the hetrodyning effects and performance of independant waves
within the sequence. In the beating and mixing of the waves, the 9th would blend with
the 3rd and 6th; the 15th with the 5th and 10th. Bartholomew quotes an ealier author as
saying the others, 7, 11,13 and 14 are dissonance, inharmonious and add little more than a gray color to the fundamental.

If I can digest all of that and this conversation that bOb has begun so diligently and what you and the others have contributed to, I may be in
another realm of musical understanding. I'm
in my 70th year; I may not have enough time
but I will enjoy it. Regards, Paul.


chas smith
Member

Posts: 3168
From: Encino, CA, USA
Registered: FEB 2001

posted 29 March 2001 12:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for chas smith     
Paul: Thank you. This stuff looks a lot more daunting than it is, probably because there's numbers involved (and because it's tax time I'm pretty sick of numbers too right now). Really, you don't need to know any of this to play and enjoy music, you don't need to know how a plane flys to get to the Convention. You don't need to know your scales or how to read music to play in a band.

But if you do, I think it opens up more possibilities and I think it makes for a greater appreciation of how music is composed and played.

John Kavanagh
Member

Posts: 378
From: Kentville, Nova Scotia, Canada
Registered: NOV 98

posted 08 April 2001 10:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Kavanagh     
It's good to get away from the idea that JI and ET are the only options.

The thing I have to keep reminding myself is that the "problem" is ours, not "the system"s; we're trying to make two different and almost but not quite incompatible ways of looking at pitch work together. One is intervals, ratios between notes, which are real physical phenomena, and the other is the instruments we build to make music on and their limitations of construction - any instrument that has more than one fixed pitch is going to have temperament problems. "Just Intonation" is really a goal, not a system.

When we try to think of music as being made up of a finite number of fixed pitches, instead of being about the relationships between pitches, we open a can of worms that we can't close. The payoff is all the wonderful possibilities of complex tonal harmony, but the headaches WON'T GO AWAY. The only reason it works at all is because our ears will tolerate intervals that are fairly out-of-tune - we'll accept a third fourteen cents sharp as if it were a "real" major third.

Equal temperament is the most flexible, the most artificial, the most sophisticated, and the most symmetrical of the limitless compromise temperaments we've come up with. In a way, it's the ultimate meantone system, because the comma is split into twelve equal parts. It only sounds best if you really need all keys to sound the same, though.

But I think Bob's really onto something when he points out that ET is about as out-of-tune as we can stand, and some lesser compromise often gives us some usable margin for error. This makes especial sense on the steel guitar, where only certain pitches and intervals are fixed. On lap steel, it's even more possible to use some purer intervals than the ET equivalents.

I noticed on a previous temperament thread that some people tuned the E9 neck ET and the C6 neck to purer intervals. On my D8 I've started doing the E13 neck ET with a tuner and the G6 neck tuning by ear from a G, and it works pretty well.

Roy McKinney
Member

Posts: 388
From: Imnaha, OR
Registered: OCT 99

posted 22 April 2001 08:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Roy McKinney     
For Bobby Lee
Your tuning chart for E9th works great for me on my Sierra Artist D108P5K. Only had to make a couple of changes. I can tune my guitar silent with it and it sounds great when I turn it on. Do you have a chart for this that works with the C6th neck?
Thanks for the information.
Roy


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