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Author Topic:   Cheap cases?
Nicholas Dedring
Member

From: Brooklyn, New York, USA

posted 25 February 2004 09:24 AM     profile   send email     edit
I need to replace my chipboard (or whatever) case for my console steel... the steel itself is not anything to write long letters home about... good shape but not collectible.

What's a good, cheap option for a new case for a D8 console steel?

I can scout out some measurements if need be.

I just don't want to put a $20 shine on a $5 pair of shoes, so to speak.

Bob Hoffnar
Member

From: Brooklyn, NY

posted 25 February 2004 01:52 PM     profile   send email     edit
Nick,
Check some internet sporting goods catalogs for shotgun bags and cases. They might have the right size for you.

I had a perfect case made by these guys:
http://www.moderncase.com/

It was really cheap for the quality.

Bob

Bryan Bradfield
Member

From: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.

posted 25 February 2004 08:06 PM     profile     edit
I bought a case for archery arrows, and modified it by cutting away some of the existing foam, and adding some more foam (carpet underlay) with hot melt glue in strategic locations. Local sporting good shops should stock it. It works well for my 1940's single neck Supro lap steel. The case is pictured here: http://www.fallfever.com/Doskocil_DoskocilFieldLockerArrowCase.html

Bryan Bradfield http://www.members.shaw.ca/DirtyHatBand/dirty_hat_band.htm

Tim Whitlock
Member

From: Arvada, CO, USA

posted 26 February 2004 06:01 AM     profile   send email     edit
I bought a keyboard gig-bag down at Guitar Center. I slide my old tweed case right in it. Protects the case and handle from wear.
Kevin Ruddell
Member

From: Toledo Ohio USA

posted 28 February 2004 05:49 AM     profile   send email     edit
I just got my new custom made carpet covered foam lined road case for my 52 Fender D8 from huck at DC Case and Cabinet Co. for $79. Compartment for the legs is separated by a divider . The case is an inch too long and a bit too deep but that actually worked out well as can put a soft towel between the guitar and the foam. Not sure how wood interacts with foam over the ears, although my 52 looks like it's already survived 25 years in a roadhouse , and like me is showing some dings and sags from age. Everytime I set it up and look at it, my inner jukebox starts playing " Dim Lights , Thick Smoke , and Loud Music "
Kevin Ruddell
Member

From: Toledo Ohio USA

posted 29 February 2004 07:46 AM     profile   send email     edit
typo error, my keyboard left the the " C" out in front of Cuck's name. His name isn't "huck"
Bryan Bradfield
Member

From: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.

posted 18 November 2005 04:47 PM     profile     edit
A forumite asked for more details about my modified arrow case, partially described above. For archival purposes, I'll add the additional details here.

My Supro is 29-15/16" long by 6-7/8" wide by 2-1/4" deep at the bridge
end to 2-1/8" deep at the headstock end.

My case, in finished form, has varying depths of foam installed by me
depending on what point is being supported. But there is never less that
1/2" of foam at any point between guitar and inside surface of case.

Inside dimensions of case are 34-1/2" long by 8-1/2" wide by 3.27". The
thickness is in decimal inches because that is the critical dimension. I
came to this thickness by measuring the inner foam inserts that butt
against each other in holding the arrows in place. The case is moulded
plastic with "corrugations" as part of the design, which gives a good
rigidity to weight ratio in my opinion. The outside dimension of case
thickness is about 4 inches.

The case material thickness is about 0.65". It is quite a flexible type
of plastic - the type that will not shatter on impact.

Instruments have varying thickness dimensions depending on whether you
are measuring across the body, above the strings, or above the strap
that often is above the strings at the pickup zone. I placed foam at
several contact areas of the body, and also above the strings, so that
there is good support at many point of the body as opposed to just at
the thickest points of the body.

I cut the existing thin strips of foam with a utility knife, and
installed 1/2" foam (carpet underlay, I think) using hot melt glue.
Sometimes I stacked the 1/2 foam on top of existing 1/2" foam with the
hot melt glue. I placed pieces at either end and at the instrument sides
to prevent the instrument from shifting forward etc. in the case.

It is definitely home-made on the inside, but on the outside - well,
check out the web site pictures at the address shown above.

I paid, as I recall, about $40.00 Canadian for this case in mid 2003. I
do only local shows, going by car with a reasonable large package of
gear - P.A., amplifiers, instruments. The steel, in its "arrow" case, is
always on the top of the pile. But this case makes me comfortable in
bumping strongly against other objects, or a mild drop of one foot or
so. It is MUCH better than my stock Gibson BR9 hard shell lap steel
case, or ANY chipboard case.

All times are Pacific (US)

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