INSTRUCTION STRINGS CDs & TAPES LINKS MAGAZINES

  The Steel Guitar Forum
  No Peddlers
  Dobro 3rd string G

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
your profile | join | preferences | help | search

next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Dobro 3rd string G
Don Sulesky
Member

From: Hernando, Fl. usa

posted 06 February 2005 05:12 AM     profile   send email     edit
Does anyone use a plain 3rd string on their dobro? If so what gauge?
I'm thinking it would be a .020 or .022.
The reason I ask is no matter what brand of strings I have tried on my dobro the 3rd string just sounds dead and I have also replaced the bridge with an ebony tip.
I won't name the brand of dobro but it is a top name and cost over $2000 and it is not as bright and does not project as well as a friends $500 dobro.
Don

[This message was edited by Don Sulesky on 06 February 2005 at 05:14 AM.]

Gary Boyett
Member

From: Colorado

posted 06 February 2005 05:23 AM     profile   send email     edit
If I were you I would talk to Beard. I had a similar problem and he got mt a new bridge and it worked wonders.
http://www.beardguitars.com


------------------
JCFSC member since 2005
D-8 Stringmaster
Fender Dual Pro


Howard Parker
Member

From: Clarksburg,MD USA

posted 06 February 2005 08:11 AM     profile   send email     edit
The John Pearse "Josh Graves" dobro set comes with a "spare" stainless third. Forgot the gauge though.

It's an acquired taste for sure.

Thirds always go dead faster than the other strings. It may be a setup issue, or, maybe it's just a search for the "holy grail"

Good luck.

hp


------------------
Howard Parker
poobah@resoguit.com
www.resoguit.com
ListOwner RESOGUIT-L
77' MSA Classic D-10

[This message was edited by Howard Parker on 06 February 2005 at 08:12 AM.]

Don Sulesky
Member

From: Hernando, Fl. usa

posted 06 February 2005 08:56 AM     profile   send email     edit
I've tried both nickel and Phosher Bronze in several brands with the same result.
I use a plain 3rd on all my guitars so I'll give it a try on the dobro.
It's the only way to test out the result of what I'm looking for in tone for my style of playing.
Thanks for your help.
Don
Mark van Allen
Member

From: loganville, Ga. USA

posted 06 February 2005 12:02 PM     profile   send email     edit
Don, I think most Dobro players struggle with third string problems more than about anything else. I'd try a new bridge, but it may also be your attack or even something like sweat chemistry- I think the smaller wound strings are most sensitive to that. I have a Pearce endorsement and love their stuff but the best tone and longest lasting thirds I've found are the .029 gauge wounds in the Beard "Special 29's" set. Not too expensive and seem to last a good bit longer for me. I had the same experience as you with my resos- even after much tweaking and futzing, I liked the tone and projection of my Crafter's better than the custom Beard I just sold. The woods and finish were much nicer on the Beard, but, that doesn't count for much in the studio!

------------------
Stop by the Steel Store at: www.markvanallen.com

Don Sulesky
Member

From: Hernando, Fl. usa

posted 06 February 2005 01:13 PM     profile   send email     edit
Mark,
Thanks I've tried those strings also.
I guess it's just me because I was looking for that high pitched treble sound I hear on records where my Tut Tennessean seems to be more on the mid range side even with my 1st and 2nd strings. Open with no barring it sounds great, but move up to about the 5th and 7th frets and it loses that twang if you know what I mean.
I did put on a plain .022 string on the 3rd and it did seem to help some.
Don
Bryan Bradfield
Member

From: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.

posted 06 February 2005 05:57 PM     profile     edit
I always found the 3rds that I acquired in commercial packs to be weak-sounding, requiring me to whack them harder, and thereby either break them of kill them prematurely. After trying various strings for 3rds, I settled on 0.026" plain a few years ago. I use nickel strings:
0.016P
0.018P
0.026P
0.036W
0.046W
0.046W
Now that 3rd has the some punch as the other strings, but with a little less trebliness. The only problem with the 0.026" plain 3rd is that the clarity of the note becomes a little unfocused after about the 10th fret.
Charlie Wallace
Member

From: Marina, California, USA

posted 07 February 2005 10:29 AM     profile   send email     edit
I found on my older Dobro a .027 is the magic number for the third string. It last longer and gives a little more bite to my sound. I often will change only the third string to get better tone and save a little money by not changing the rest. The hard part is finding a music store that stocks that gauge. I buy all my strings from John Pearse these days and order extra .027's
Chris Walke
Member

From: St Charles, IL

posted 10 February 2005 11:33 AM     profile   send email     edit
I highly recommend Paul Beard's "Special 29's," which were designed to address the precise problem you are posting about. "Special 29s" might be an old name, though. Go to Beard's site and you'll find them, and the item description talks about the 3rd string issue.

I've tried the plain 3rd on my lap steel tuned to G (the Josh Graves set previously mentioned). I did not like that sound. It actually made the whole guitar sound dead, IMO. YMMV.

George Rout
Member

From: St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada

posted 10 February 2005 03:49 PM     profile   send email     edit
Just be cautious that your 3rd string replacement has to be a size that fits evenly between the 2nd and 4th in order for the bar to sit "flat" on the strings, and not have the 2nd too small and "rattle" under the bar. Geo
Jennings Ward
Member

From: Edgewater, Florida, USA

posted 16 February 2005 04:56 PM     profile   send email     edit
DON, FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH, I HAD SAME PROBLEM AS YOU DESCRIBE, AFTER ALL ELSE FAILED,,, I CHANGED THE CONE AND CURED MY PROBLEM.....CONES ARE A LOT LIKE STRINGS... THEY WILL GO DEAD.. WHY ??????????? BUT CAN CAUSE A MULTITUDE OF PROBLEMS.....HOPE THIS HELPS.........JENN9NGS.... IF ALL ELSE FAILS,, JUST EAT A LOT OF POSSUM.....

------------------
EMMONS D10 10-10 profex 2 deltafex ne1000 pv1000, pv 31 bd eq, +

Don Sulesky
Member

From: Hernando, Fl. usa

posted 17 February 2005 05:44 AM     profile   send email     edit
Guy,
A strange thing happened last Friday night when I played my dobro at a gig.
I had a set of GHS Phosphor Bronze semi flats on my TTT. And it wasn't that bad,but then I put on my Beard capo with the bone nut on it at the 2nd fret for the key of A and the dobro came to life like I had never heard before.
So my question is.
Is the nut on my Tut Taylor Tenn. bone or plastic?
If it's plastic then I'm going to change it to bone.
I'm thinking of doing the same to the bridge which is now ebony.
Don
Jim Bates
Member

From: Alvin, Texas, USA

posted 17 February 2005 06:11 PM     profile   send email     edit
Don,
My Tut Taylor Virginian has a micarta nut, I think, and plain maple bridge. I always use the D'Addario EJ-42 strings as is. Guitar came with Tut's method of stringing the ball ends of the strings from the top and coming out bottom of tailpiece. Have NEVER had any problems with this setup. You can get problems with both the nut and bridge if you put different size strings than what the slots were cut for.

If the sound clears up with a capo, then the nut slots are cut wrong for the gauge of strings you are using. If the strings are muddy when noting them with the bar, then the bridge is causing the problem.

Best advice is to find some strings you like; get the strings fitted to both the nut and bridge, and don't change. Of course all this assumes that the cone and spider are properly seated and adjusted.

Thanx,
Jim


Don Sulesky
Member

From: Hernando, Fl. usa

posted 18 February 2005 04:05 AM     profile   send email     edit
Jim
Thanks for the info on the bridge.
After checking mine I also noticed it was not bone.
I also just read an article on the FOTW site that said once you bar the strings the nut has little or no effort on the tone or volume. Open my TTT has loads of volume and barring also. It's just that it's not as bright as I would like,but I noticed after listening to the FOTW demo of the TTT and then a Beard they both sounded like mine. I do have some EJ42 strings and was about to put them on because I do remember they sounded better than the GHS I have on it now.
Don
db
Member

From: New Jersey

posted 26 February 2005 04:23 PM     profile   send email     edit
I can find .026 plain max . . .
Anyone know where to find heavier plain gauges?
Do they even exist?

BTW... I put on a .024p and it sounds great!
I have my sets on the "light side" right now:
.015, .017, .024, .035, .042, .056
But, would like to check-out the next "step-up".

------------------
Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3

[This message was edited by db on 26 February 2005 at 04:34 PM.]

All times are Pacific (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Catalog of Pedal Steel Music Products

Note: Messages not explicitly copyrighted are in the Public Domain.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.46

The greatest musical hands in the world, now on CD!
"Legends of the Incredible Lap Steel"