I got the walnut version, and found it's girth to be more 'substantial' than I'd expected it to be, unstrung it has virtually no resonance when tapped. But for $220/delivered, it's a pretty hefty lap steel at 5ish lbs., and fitted with the nice (but heavy) gold tuners and PU/etc. it comes to about 7 lbs. Sanded nicely, clean woodwork/free of debri and ready for a final prep, then the owners preferred finish, it's a nice product. I'm not waiting to coat it, but later may apply a bee's wax finish. The fret markers are not consistant in coloration (dark/light) and may not be of consequence after a finish is applied, but otherwise it may be something to focus on in the future, but not a drastic distraction on an otherwise attrctive fretboard. The nut is just a 1/8" brass blade, rounded on the top edge, and is wedged snugly into place between the tuners and fretboard. Tight enuf to allieve my initial 'looseness' concerns.

Will be doing the soldering/etc. tomorrow.

Overall/so far, I'm quite impressed and happy with it. The one point of concern is the fragility of the wooden tuner bracket. Careful with the pilot holes when drilling and don't bang/drop/crack it or there will be difficult repairs. I belive he's considering a metal bracket for the future. Still not sure of a loose bridge, but will play/listen before commenting.

Bottom line- Buy one.

At this price and quality, most can afford to buy and give them away to prospective steelers, and putting it together would give valuable lessons right from the start.

Hard to beat this deal.

The 2 other owners I've conferred with are happy with their's, altho both were new to steels.

Review Pt. 2 next week.

[This message was edited by Ron Whitfield on 12 March 2005 at 04:18 PM.]

------------------
Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3

No solder/wiring done or good/flat strings on yet, but I connected the PU direct to the jack just to get a sound. And what a sound I got. I had to be quiet, so I played thru my Crate 'Taxi' w/headphones. Clean, low/mid/high on 10.
This way, the PU is very clear/transparent w/tons of headroom for the treble end. Extreme single coil sound, w/clear, crystaline highs all the way to the PU.
To get an overall sound acceptable to me and those in the darker, but still clear/Jerry Byrd camp, I had to take the high and mid to 0.
Then, this guitar started sounding beautiful.
I'm almost afraid to change anything but the strings now.
How this thing will sound thru a regular gig rig, only time will tell (hopefully soon). If the lower end of the aural spectrum is similar to the top in it's fullness, then Mark has hit the mark with this guitar.

Strung up, the body now resonates like mad, and the sustain is almost endless.

There are a few points of concern with the design/set up.
The headstock is located too close to the bridge, w/the 8th string tuner blocking access to the first fret. Not good. A 7 string wouldn't have nearly the problem.
The crowned blade nut must be grooved to keep strings in perfect position, unless you have string winding down to a science.
Thru the grape vine, I've learned that the wooden tuning bracket is merely glued to the headstock face with good 'ol Elmer's wood glue w/Mark (the builder/seller) suggesting not to use the most common C6th tuning with it's higher tension. This was never conveyed to me during the purchasing process (and, I never asked), nor have I seen it mentioned anywhere, but is a very pertinent point to omit when talking steels. However, the 23" in scale gives enuf tension relief that this should not pose a problem. But carefully setting a few screws here would not be unwise. A proper gluing with Elmer's is stronger that the surrounding wood, but a Marine style adhesive would be even more so.
If the builder has a concern, so should the buyer/player.
Should that bracket cut loose under pressure...

Overall, pretty impressive steel, at any price.

The saga continues...
The news about the glue'd on keyhead is good! I called D. Marrs today to get a price on buffed keyhead with tuners and
a piece of alum. for the nut. Also thinking
about a piece for direct replacement of the
bridge. So, pop off the wooden keyhead, position and drill replacement keyhead
set-screw holes, the nut will screw to the
keyhead, and the hole unit will be on nice
and firm. So , I hope, no problem for
C6. I will post again as this project comes
together. I'm hoping to get started on E9
also, as I save for a PSG.

Keep pickin' Joe

[This message was edited by Joseph De Feo on 16 March 2005 at 11:37 AM.]

I've shelved the changes I had planned.

I'm not sure where the misinformation came from that you can't tune the guitar to C6th. That wouldn't be much fun!!
If memory serves me I have only discussed anything close to this with one person.They had a six string and were using "12-52" gauge strings for open E tuning. I mentioned that I'd be "carefull" of tuning a heavy set up to C6th.(seems like most C6th sets run about 0.036 or 0.038 for the C string).
My primary reason for this suggestion was, he has a used guitar where the previous owner mounted the tuners backward. --In my experience the gears inside a backward mounted tuner can slip because string tension levers the horizontal shaft away from the vertical shaft.--Most tuners I've seen are mounted so the string tension forces the shafts together.

Also, I didn't mention it in my correspondence to him,but I don't think guitar strings meant for E tuning sound right when cranked up to C6th .I do it all the time on my own guitar but it feels like the tension is wrong for the gauge and seems to deaden the low strings.
There are close to 40 kits out there. So far, I haven't had any reports of the keyheads breaking or pulling off.
I have had to replace a few (I mounted them backwards) The glue joint will not let go in spite of prying and repeated applications of boiling water.The tuning block has to be split with a sharp chisel and the remains pared and sanded off.
At this time I'm not convinced that I need to go for the extra expense of a metal keyhead. I like the wood ones (apparently so does GeorgeBoards). I'm planning to beef them up a little and I definitely see where some more room between the tuners and the nut is a good idea.
Their are,of course, plenty of upgrades or changes that a knowledgeable steeler might make to the kit.A sophisticated, totaly engineered,sonic masterpiece it ain't---I'll leave that to MSA and others.I am primarily interested in giving the Do-It-Yourself person a way to check out steel guitar without too much of a monetary commitment.

[This message was edited by Mark Vinbury on 16 March 2005 at 08:52 PM.]

Dynalap, Dynaglide, what's the difference?

About 15-20 grand !!!.....

I did mention having mine tuned to C6, so obviously it can be done, and without worry.
I'll be throwing on a set of heavy flats (and a pair of safety goggles) as soon as I'm done here.

I too reversed the tuners, as I liked the way they looked in that position and wound the string under the post, making the turning direction normal again and giving a bit more downward pressure from the nut.

I'm quite pleased/intrigued with mine so far, and impressed with Mark's entry level efforts, knowing that after a few niggles are worked out, they will be even better.

Check 'em out!

------------------
Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3

[This message was edited by db on 17 March 2005 at 06:41 PM.]

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Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3