Author
|
Topic: cleaning fender legs
|
Stacy Phillips Member From: New Haven, Connecticutt, USA
|
posted 29 September 2005 07:28 PM
profile send email edit
I've got 3 legs from a 1950's 2 neck 8 string steel that are rusty from idling for many years. Can someone recommend the best and easiest way to clean them. Thanks
|
Chris Morrison Member From: Massachusetts, USA
|
posted 29 September 2005 07:44 PM
profile send email edit
Do you care about the "antiquarian value" of the guitar as an historical artifact/collectible? If so, derust it *very* gently with nothing more abrasive than bronze wool (vs steel), to preserve the original surface, marred as it may be. "Scotchbrite" and other pads are not suitable!! If you just want them usable for actual playing and don't care about "changing" the finish, stronger abrasives as above are fine. You could do it wet (water, light oil, etc) to hold the dust down -- and then dry/degrease with hot air/solvent respectively. Hardware-store chemical deruster solutions like "Naval Jelly" are acids, they can derust fairly well, but they will etch the surface, giving frosted/sandblasted appearance (at least the bare steel parts, dunno about the plating).. Come to think of it, if an artist friend (glass artist eg) has a sandblaster, that'll sure as hell remove the rust, the plating... ;-) Can work very well! Then put on a light clear spray to keep 'em from rusting right back up. (Krylon is a good brand, in hardware stores). One thing to find out: are they chrome or nickel plated? (chrome, probably). Nickel is much softer, if saving the original finish is an issue.- your erstwhile dobro workshop student, Chris (Joe Val, Music Emporium)[This message was edited by Chris Morrison on 29 September 2005 at 07:45 PM.] |
Gary Boyett Member From: Colorado
|
posted 30 September 2005 06:11 AM
profile send email edit
UH OH, Stacey is experimenting again...Are we going to see a non-pedal steel video in our future Stacey??? Inquiring minds want to know. ------------------ JCFSGC,RMSGC,HSGA member Boyett's Glass Bars |
Jon Light Member From: Brooklyn, NY
|
posted 30 September 2005 12:31 PM
profile send email edit
Anybody have any comment on WD40 for this job? |
Chris Morrison Member From: Massachusetts, USA
|
posted 30 September 2005 01:28 PM
profile send email edit
oops, didn't mean to leave out WD40!! Sure, it'd be fine as a light oil in my earlier post. It doesn't actually de-rust particularly, but its penetrating action is great! |
Jon Light Member From: Brooklyn, NY
|
posted 30 September 2005 01:49 PM
profile send email edit
My issue actually is pitting, not rust. I have a couple of instruments with legs that do what they are supposed to do---they go all the way down to the floor---but they could look a bunch better than they do. |
Stacy Phillips Member From: New Haven, Connecticutt, USA
|
posted 05 October 2005 09:48 PM
profile send email edit
Thanks for the ideas. WD40 unfroze 2 of 3 legs. Looks like the legs are chrome plated. I will try the de-ruster you recommend. Stacy No non-pedal book per se, but Volume 2 of The Art of Hawaiian Steel Guitar should be availble later this month. |
Stacy Phillips Member From: New Haven, Connecticutt, USA
|
posted 06 October 2005 05:41 AM
profile send email edit
Thanks for the information. The WD40 was able to free 2 of the legs so they can be extended. I'm not sure what to do to the 3rd. I will try the de-ruster recommendation. StacyNo non-pedal books per se, though Volume 2 of The Art of Hawaiian Steel Guitar should be available later this month. |
Bryan Bradfield Member From: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.
|
posted 06 October 2005 10:38 AM
profile edit
Penetrating fluid. Cutting fluid. Machinists, and tool and die makers use a very fine oil as a cutting tool lubricant. Inject a bit of this stuff along a frozen metal-to-metal joint, and it should loosen things up after a day or so of soaking. I never try to hurry or force these frozen joints. This fluid (these fluids) should be available in most good hardware stores. I'm looking forward to the new book. Isn't this the one that is primarily in a major chord tuning?[This message was edited by Bryan Bradfield on 06 October 2005 at 10:41 AM.] |
Stacy Phillips Member From: New Haven, Connecticutt, USA
|
posted 06 October 2005 03:11 PM
profile send email edit
Brian, Do you have brand names for any of these types of oils? The new book is mostly in major triad tuning, with a few in C6 and Bm (same as C#m). Lots of Sol Hoopii and The Genial Hawaiians. Stacy |
Bryan Bradfield Member From: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.
|
posted 06 October 2005 05:32 PM
profile edit
Nope. I've used up and discarded my last can. I don't think it had a brand name. It is NOT premium stuff. I buy mine at Canadian Tire here in Canada, and that is NOT your top-drawer boutique. I use something that comes in a small 85 to 125 millilitre can (about 4 fluid ounces). This is a can with a small pouring tip in the top, like 3-in-1 oil comes in. I'm QUITE sure that it has the description "penetrating fluid" or "penetrating oil" on the can right under the brand name. I'll bet that sewing machine oil is just a little thicker than penetrating fluid. 3-in-1 is DEFINITELY thicker than penetrating fluid. The last job I used penetrating fluid for was a 1950's record player in which aluminum shafts rotated in aluminum bushings. Everything had totally seized up after years of just laying around. I dribbled some of this stuff in the joints, and a couple of days later, everything came apart easily. At that point, I relubricated with heaver oil and the record player runs fine. By the way, I heard that one of the Genial Hawaiians was actually mean-spirited. |
Bryan Bradfield Member From: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.
|
posted 06 October 2005 05:56 PM
profile edit
Hold on! I buy the penetrating fluid at Canadian Tire, so the brand name would be "Mastercraft". That's just like once upon a time when you bought a guitar at Sears, it was a "Silvertone". Actually, Sears probably still sells Silvertones, don't they?[This message was edited by Bryan Bradfield on 06 October 2005 at 07:41 PM.] |
Stan Townsend Member From: Los Angeles
|
posted 08 October 2005 10:38 AM
profile send email edit
STACY, If you haven't ruined the legs yet... Bon Ami with a wetted soft cloth works great! Hasn't scratched yet! |
HowardR Member From: N.Y.C.,N.Y.
|
posted 08 October 2005 02:23 PM
profile send email edit
Anyone ever tried "Nair".... You can buy penetrating oil in any hardware store. |
Jody Carver Member From: The Knight Of Fender Tweed. Dodger Blue Forever
|
posted 08 October 2005 06:26 PM
profile edit
Howard STOP!!! your killing me NAIRhahahahahahaha |
Bill Creller Member From: Saginaw, Michigan, USA
|
posted 09 October 2005 05:52 AM
profile send email edit
I have four good inside tubes for the legs, and you can have them for the shipping costs...email me. BILL |
Paul Honeycutt Member From: Colorado, USA
|
posted 09 October 2005 09:39 PM
profile send email edit
Someone on another board suggested using WD-40 and aluminum foil. They said it was an old biker trick. That's what I know. Also, try to find a metal polish called Rolite. I bought a tube years ago at a home and garden show and it has 101 uses. |