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Author Topic:   Just finished building my lap steel
Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 04:57 PM     profile   send email     edit
Hi guys,
some of you may remember that I joined the forum a few weeks ago with some questions about building a lap steel - well, I finally finished my project.
Took quite a bit longer than I expected, had to rethink some ideas and change some original plans, but finally my lap steel turned out not so bad looking (at least from a distance... ), and what's more important, not bad sounding (very fat, with good sustain).
Now if only I could play that thing already... But I'm practicing almost daily (whenever my girl-friend is not at home and can't complain )
Here are some pics (hope this works...):

Lap Steel - 1
Lap Steel - 2
Lap Steel - 3
Lap Steel - 4

Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 04:58 PM     profile   send email     edit
Lap Steel - 5
Lap Steel - 6
Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 05:01 PM     profile   send email     edit
As you may have seen, I still have one little problem: the strings sit so far away from the surface of the body, that the edges of the pickup-cover of the P90 are almost above the surface - still need to find a solution for that...

Roman

Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 05:07 PM     profile   send email     edit
Oh, and here are a few details, in case you missed my original post:
body made from African mahogany;
fretboard made from maple, with frets drawn on with a pen and painted over;
Kluson tuners;
Seymour Duncan P90 pickup, 500k Vol. and tone pots, Sprague 'orange drop' .047 µF cap;
nut and bridge made from aluminium profile (I tested it in comparison with my originally planned bone/rosewood bridge, but the metal one gave better sustain);
hand-rest made from rosewood;
except for the fretboard, the guitar is finished with a wax-oil-mixture (originally intended for hardwood floors...)
Except for an electric drill, no electric tools were used (since I don't own those - some stuff would have been much easier if I owned a router...)

[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 02 January 2006 at 05:09 PM.]

Bill Hatcher
Member

From: Atlanta Ga. USA

posted 02 January 2006 05:07 PM     profile   send email     edit
Make a nice mounting ring to match the bridge cover. That will hide the base of the p90 very nicely.

Very nice guitar.

[This message was edited by Bill Hatcher on 02 January 2006 at 05:09 PM.]

Bill Leff
Member

From: Santa Cruz, CA, USA

posted 02 January 2006 05:12 PM     profile   send email     edit
Nice looking steel there. I bet it screams with that P-90.
Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 05:13 PM     profile   send email     edit
Unfortunately, I don't have any of that rosewood left (that was a saddle blank for an acoustic guitar, cut and sanded in shape...)

Fretboard is maple, painted with clear lacquer, then I marked the frets with a fine 'Stabilo' permanent marker - which turned out not to be so permanent, after all - when I painted another layer of lacquer over the markings, they almost started to dissolve, giving a slightly purplish hue to the last layer...

[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 02 January 2006 at 05:28 PM.]

Jeff Strouse
Member

From: Jacksonville, Florida, USA

posted 02 January 2006 05:28 PM     profile   send email     edit
That looks very nice, Roman! You did a great job!
Ron Victoria
Member

From: Metuchen, New Jersey, USA

posted 02 January 2006 05:32 PM     profile   send email     edit
I have 2 questions:

I guess I'm just naieve, what does that bar do across the strings on the peghead?

Did you make the strings thru the body diagonal for a purpose or purely asthetic?

I was considering building one myself.
Thanks, Ron

Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 05:45 PM     profile   send email     edit
Ron, this bar (a 'string tree') exerts extra pressure on the strings, by making them run at a less shallow angle across the nut.
Actually, it would not be necessary any more - but since this is the very first instrument I ever built, I had to experiment during construction, and the first nut I tried was much lower, giving a very shallow angle of the strings from the nut to the tuners - they would resonate - make noises - when hitting a note, without a string tree; you can see different kinds of string trees on guitars that don,t have slanted headstocks, like Fenders); the nut from that heavy duty aluminium profile I just found this week is much higher (20mm vs. 12mm for the first version), so the angle would be sufficiently steep now even without that bar.
About the slanted holes: those ferrules that the strings run through are so wide that they would touch if mounted at the correct spacing in a straight line - I feared that the wood might break inbetween the holes, that's why I set them at a slant (giving more distance between the ferrules).

Roman

[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 02 January 2006 at 05:46 PM.]

[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 02 January 2006 at 05:48 PM.]

[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 02 January 2006 at 05:49 PM.]

Ron Victoria
Member

From: Metuchen, New Jersey, USA

posted 02 January 2006 05:49 PM     profile   send email     edit
What do you figure it cost you to build?

Ron

Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 02 January 2006 06:14 PM     profile   send email     edit
Hmm, difficult to say, as I had some stuff (like the wood blanks) lying around already...
Also, I'm in Europe, where most of the stuff is more expensive, anyway.

I don't know what the wood would cost - I used two blanks from bass necks, try finding a place that sells something similar to see what it costs - I'd guess around 60 to 80 USD, if you are lucky? Add another 10 to 20 for a maple fretboard blank.
Depending on what kind of pickup you get, price can vary highly, from around 30 to well above 100 USD - I had this old SD P90 lying around, those are not cheap new, for good inexpensive ones check out the GFS brand at www.guitarfetish.com - I have their 'New York' models in my archtop hollow-body guitar and love them, but for a lap steel I would try another model - their 'Dream 90' and P90 look promising, if you are going for a fat tone.
Pots, cable, plug, cap, and screws should run to about 20 to 30 USD at most.
My Kluson tuners cost about 30 USD, you can find cheaper no-name one, though (also at the guitarfetish site...)
The aluminium profile should be available for around 5 USD. You also need something to cover the electronics cavity - I used aluminium as well (grounded - to give extra shielding against noise).
You need some glue (I used real animal hide glue), and something for finishing the guitar (paint, or, like I used, some wax/oil type finish) - maybe 5 to 10 USD.

All in all, this would make about 150 to 200 USD total (unless you already have some of the stuff).

It will be more expensive if you have to get some tools, though - here are all the ones I used:
electric drill, with drill stand (an absolute must, you can't do without this!);
I used a Forstner-type drill bit and a chisel for making all my routing work, but this would have been easier with a real electric router;
sanding block and LOTS of sandpaper (coarse and fine);
a few clamps for glueing things together;
metal saw & small files (for making nut and bridge);
some kind of saw for cutting the wood;
soldering iron; pliers; small screw drivers;
brushes;

Do you know that site? http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/lapsteel/

Roman

Terry Farmer
Member

From: Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA

posted 02 January 2006 06:18 PM     profile   send email     edit
Roman, you did a fine job with your first homebuilt. It is beautiful. I am very impressed! Also, what a great way to join the Forum! Introduction, homebuilt, pictures and description. All I can say is WOW!!!! It took some of us years to accomplish what you have done in a few weeks. For the gap around your P90 you could try some 1/4" diameter, cylindrical, black foam weather stripping. I think that would probably finish it off just fine if you are looking for an easy, low cost solution.
Peace,
Terry
Bill Blacklock
Member

From: Powell River, British Columbia, Canada

posted 02 January 2006 06:27 PM     profile   send email     edit
Damm fine
Mike D
Member

From: Phx, Az

posted 02 January 2006 07:01 PM     profile   send email     edit
A fine looking piece! I'll bet it sounds great.

For those looking for budget guitar parts I can recommend my friend Dennis Antel at http://www.guitarpartsusa.com/
I was ordering some tailpieces and things and tried one of the $12 Tele bridge P/Us in a 22.5" Mahogany and Maple lap steel and the thing just rips!
With the exception of fretwire I've been very happy with everything I've gotten from him... and you guys don't need fretwire anyway do ya?

------------------
Half-assed bottleneck and lap slide player. Full-assed Builder of resonator instruments.

Stephan Miller
Member

From: Silver Spring, Maryland, USA

posted 02 January 2006 07:07 PM     profile   send email     edit
Way to go, Roman!
HowardR
Member

From: N.Y.C.,N.Y.

posted 02 January 2006 07:13 PM     profile   send email     edit
A shining example of putting one's mind to accomplish something and persevering.

Bravo!

Dom Franco
Member

From: Beaverton, OR, 97007

posted 02 January 2006 10:24 PM     profile   send email     edit
What does the bottom look like? How did you cover the electronics and wires?

Thanks for the pictures, very nice looking steel!

Dom Franco

Mark Vinbury
Member

From: N. Kingstown, Rhode Island, USA

posted 03 January 2006 05:47 AM     profile   send email     edit
Great job Roman.
Randy Reeves
Member

From: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA

posted 03 January 2006 06:28 AM     profile   send email     edit
Roman...for a first lap you did a nice job.
your costs are in line with what I genaerally spend.
you labor hours are much more than that; but it is labor of love and experience.
Ive learned so much about building laps in just two attempts.
it's a great chance to make those little improvements that can only be found by building one.

I am envious of that P90. the string spacing you are using is close to 3/8" ?

so are you going to biuld a Roman model 2?

Jay Fagerlie
Member

From: Lotus, California, USA

posted 03 January 2006 07:02 AM     profile   send email     edit
Great job, Roman.
Now lets have some sound clips!!!

Jay

Jason Dumont
Member

From: Bristol, Connecticut, USA

posted 03 January 2006 07:15 AM     profile   send email     edit
Well done Roman! You did a great job! The handrest is gorgeous and gives a nice "warm" look to it.
Mike Ruffin
Member

From: El Paso, Texas, USA

posted 03 January 2006 10:55 AM     profile   send email     edit
Really nice job, Roman!! A sound clip would be great.
Welcome aboard.
Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 03 January 2006 02:00 PM     profile   send email     edit
Thanks everybody for the kind words!

Dom, here are some pics of the bottom side:

ls7

ls9

ls8

The cover for the electronics was made from 1 mm aluminium sheet - I put a layer of black plastic on top of that, to prevent the screw heads from tearing my pant legs...
Those two recessed screws next to it hold the handrest from the back (they go through the body).
The backside of the headstock is the part I'm least satisfied with - since I only had that Forstner drill bit and a chisel for making it, it did not come out very clean (as it would have with a router), so I had to use some filler to cover holes and scratches, and had to paint over to cover the filler; still not great looking, but nobody will see it when playing, anyway...

Terry, thanks for the tip, I'll have to check that out!

[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 03 January 2006 at 02:02 PM.]

Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 03 January 2006 02:11 PM     profile   send email     edit
Randy, string spacing is 10 mm (which is almost the same as 3/8 inches - metric values are just more natural for a European... )
About 'Roman Mk. 2' - before I even start thinking about that, I'll have to learn to play the first model... Those console-style 8-strings are nice looking, though - maybe in a couple of years, once I've mastered the 6-string?
My next project will probably be a 'Bari-Tele' (Telecaster-body with baritone neck), for those extra-twangy surf-style solos, and I'm also thinking about building a little 15W tube-amp from a kit in spring, if I get around to it.

About sound clips: well, first I have to learn how to play that instrument... And also, I don't know at all how to record on a computer - my own one is a pretty old model, I'm not even sure whether it would run any current recording software (which I don't have either). I guess there should be a way to hook up that Yamaha 4-track tape recorder (which I still have from my days playing in a band in the early '90s) to the sound-card, maybe I'll try that some time.

Roman

Curt Langston
Member

From: ***In the shadows of Tulsa at Bixby, USA***

posted 03 January 2006 06:10 PM     profile   send email     edit
That looks VERY nice! It is hard to imagine this is your first one to build. Sweet!
Scott Houston
Member

From: Oakland, CA

posted 04 January 2006 06:26 PM     profile   send email     edit
Roman, that looks great. The square butt shape reminds me a little of some of those 1930s Volutones (I think that's what I'm thinking of anyway).
Rodney Garrison
Member

From: Bowie, Texas

posted 04 January 2006 07:20 PM     profile   send email     edit
Enjoy these moments! You will remember them forever. You may revisit a few things and you should. you may or may not make revisions. You should be proud of this work and take some more pictures. your photos are excellent.
Jump on it , grab some "Chicago" , dup a few horn parts, see what happens.
I like to try to copy a few horn chops and revise to my abilities. Chicago has solid, tasteful horn chops.
You should be proud. Excellent work!
RG
Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 05 January 2006 02:57 AM     profile   send email     edit
Rodney,
great idea - but at the moment I'm already happy to get through 'Red River Valley' without mistakes...
I also got those GeorgeBoards DVDs and CDs in the meantime - very helpful!

Scotty,
I'm not familiar with the Volutones - I guess the design was influenced by my looking at almost every Ebay auction for a lap steel since December - particularly some National model and this Epiphone: http://cgi.ebay.at/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7374870710&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
influenced the shape of the butt end.

Roman

John Ummel
Member

From: Arlington, WA.

posted 06 January 2006 11:06 AM     profile     edit
Nicely done Roman,
I see the link to the book, "Its Easy to Build Your Own Lap Steel" contains a chart showing fret measurements for a 22.5" scale. Are there also specs for other scales (24.5") contained in that book?
Does anyone know? Or where else I might find those specs?
Johnny
Roman Sonnleitner
Member

From: Vienna, Austria

posted 06 January 2006 11:15 AM     profile   send email     edit
John,
look here:
http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/fretcalc/fretcalc.pdf

Roman

John Ummel
Member

From: Arlington, WA.

posted 06 January 2006 01:08 PM     profile     edit
Got it, thanks Roman.
I'm formulating plans for a D-6.

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