Author
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Topic: Emmons Vertical Knee Lever
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Jeff Savage Member Posts: 87 From: Fort Covington, NY, Registered: OCT 99
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posted 05 March 2000 11:27 AM
I'm thinking of adding a vertical knee lever (B drop) to my Emmons P/P but not sure about ordering one. Can anyone tell me if they are all the same or did they make different ones for different years of P/P model Emmons? Also, have only used this lever on a friends steel once, is this lever useful and is it hard to install on a push/pull? Just want to add something different to my Emmons I guess... 
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Ronney Bailey Member Posts: 574 From: Albuquerque,New,Mexico Registered: DEC 99
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posted 05 March 2000 12:15 PM
By my Emmons cataloge It don't say anything about levers from diffrent years being diffrent.They my well be the only way to know would be to call Emmons and ask them.It won't be cheap for the parts to ad a lever price wise around $150 give or take a little a knee lever kit should come with all the Parts to install also it shoudn't be hard to install as everything should be pre Machiened for it. You will have to order the right knee lever kit for what ever knee it is to be installed as like LKL LKR RKR RKL or and up lever.I have the parts cataloge for emmons parts showing all the parts they have available and prices.
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C Dixon Member Posts: 5912 From: Duluth, GA USA Registered:
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posted 05 March 2000 01:01 PM
Jeff,The vertical knee lever kits sold by Emmons in their present catalogue sheets is NOT for a P-P. They are for the LeGrande! They are not the same at all. Different cross shafts, different bellcranks, different pull or push rods. It is possible, Emmons still has a P-P kit, but I doubt it. If they don't, contact Bobbe Seymoure or Ed Naylor God bless you, carl
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Jerry Roller Member Posts: 3906 From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA Registered: APR 99
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posted 05 March 2000 01:29 PM
Jeff, you can order a LeGrande knee right lever with the extension which is pinned to the lever. You can use the right knee lever for a LeGrande as a left or right on P/P. You would need to add another pin to lock it in an "L" position to form a knee lever. It has a round hole for it to to the reversing "L" bracket but the hole will fit the round cross rod on the P/P. A cross rod is easy to make and you can order the cross rod end brackets, and bellcranks. Then you just need an 1/8" stainless welding rod and some set collars and spacers. E-mail me if you would like help. I can help you get what you need. Installation is simple. Jerry
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Bill Rowlett Member Posts: 664 From: Russellville, AR, USA Registered:
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posted 06 March 2000 11:50 AM
Hi Jeff,I find this to be a difficult change to add. The lever and cross shaft are not too hard to install, but there is limited space and it can become frustrating. Since the B drop is a lower, you will probably have to take off the keyhead endplate to be able to get the lower push rod in place. Starting from the lower finger, you will need the 1/8-inch dia. push rod (I use brass coated carbon steel welding rods), a stop collar and possibly a spacer for the finger interface, 2 stop collars and a 1-inch spacer tube for where the rod goes through the angle support bracket, 1 stop collar and a 1-inch spacer tube for the bellcrank interface. You will need two L brackets for the cross shaft. One will be taller that the other because of the ¼-inch difference in neck height You will need a 5/16-inch cross shaft and two stop collars for it. Then you will need the knee lever part, which is usually a regular knee lever pinned in the folded L position. Many people add an angle flag (extension) to the lever to make it easier to activate. The last thing that I can think of is an adjustable vertical stop for the lever. Since this change adds a lower to the 5th string, you will now have to add more slack in that string's two pedal raises. In order to get the full raise, you will also probably have to add more pedal travel to the first and third pedals. This is a somewhat frustrating process of trial and error, which can adversely change your pedal heights and cause you to spend a day making adjustments to the 4th string too. Lastly, you will need to make sure that your pedal stops bottom out when your fingers do. If you like quick 1st and 3rd pedal response, then this may not be a change that you will want to add. Hope this helps you, Bill
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Buck Grantham Member Posts: 1874 From: Denham Springs, LA. USA Registered: SEP 99
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posted 06 March 2000 04:47 PM
Check this man out. He makes knee-lever kits at a reasonable price I think.His name is Randy Reimer.... E-mail address is reimerr@yahoo.com Phone# 1-780-922-4362 I think he can help you.... Buck
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Dave Robbins Member Posts: 718 From: Nashville, Tnn. USA Registered: FEB 2000
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posted 06 March 2000 05:11 PM
Jeff, you better check with Mike Cass on this one. Mike lives, eats, and "breathes" pushpulls! "HE BE DA MAN", believe me to talk with on this.Ph# 615 781 2538.He doesn't have an e-mail but I believe he has a website linked to Herb Steiner'S. Mike will have the correct parts.
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Jeff Savage Member Posts: 87 From: Fort Covington, NY, Registered: OCT 99
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posted 06 March 2000 06:38 PM
Hi Again: Well, now that I think about it more and read about how much of a task it might be I think I'll just leave it the way it is, I already have 6 pedals and 4 knee levers now and it is an S10 on a single frame so it's kinda crowded underneath there now and it might be something i didn't really want after I got it. I also thought that I might be able to just install the knee lever on the cross bar for the 5th & 10th string raise pedal and install a push rod as there are already extra bell cranks there but I've never really done much on this guitar so I'm also afraid to get into more problems than I can't handle, might be better to leave well enough alone By the way, I have already called Mike Cass and I'm pretty sure that my Emmons will be headed in that direction in a few weeks. I think that's the best way to go as I've read a lot about Mike and everything I've read was great. thanks for all the help, it is greatly appreciated..Jeff[This message was edited by Jeff Savage on 06 March 2000 at 06:40 PM.]
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C Dixon Member Posts: 5912 From: Duluth, GA USA Registered:
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posted 06 March 2000 07:24 PM
Jeff,Soooooooooooo glad you decided to do this. Sometimes, we who have good mechanical aptitude, forget that what may come very easy to us, may be a nightmare for others. And it is no picnic working on a P-P. Especially lowers. Send it to an expert. It is the wise move I believe. God bless you with whatever you do, carl
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John Lacey Member Posts: 1843 From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada Registered: JAN 99
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posted 07 March 2000 06:15 AM
Carl and Dave are correct on that one. I personally took my vertical off cause my guitar's a little higher and it was hard to engage. Since then I've been able to tweak my first and third pedal to be much faster with less slop. Less is more with a push pull.
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