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Author
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Topic: Need Help on Spyder Bridge Saddle
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Chris Schlotzhauer
Member From: Colleyville, Tx. USA
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posted 17 August 2001 10:24 AM
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I just watched the Paul Beard video on Dobro Set Up. Very good info here. I am determined to rebuild my Dobro and get my sound where I want. I am even re-visiting the McIntyre pickup issue, once I achieve the acoustic sound goal.
Now my question...The saddle bridge blanks sold at Stewart-MacDonald are not trimmed or notched. I want the maple/ebony blanks. The video does not illustrate how to cut and notch these blanks. Just how to measure, replace, glue, etc..
Any advice from experience here? I know there is. Thanks
PS. I will have McIntyre questions later. |
chas smith
Member From: Encino, CA, USA
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posted 17 August 2001 11:58 AM
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If I were you, I would get a razor saw to cut the blank and a set of jeweler's files to notch it. The files are handy things to have around the house and they're good for stirring up ant cups when you're not notching blanks. The spacing of the strings on a Beard Dobro is 7/16", (.437) center to center. |
Mike D
Member From: Phx, Az
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posted 17 August 2001 05:03 PM
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A razor saw (X-Acto) works well on the plain strings and to start the wounds. One trick that works very well is to use old wound stings to cut the final slot. It's fast and fits them perfectly. |
Roy Thomson
Member From: Wolfville, Nova Scotia,Canada
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posted 17 August 2001 05:24 PM
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I got Paul Beard to do a ten string ebony/maple bridge for my acoustic resophonic.
All he wanted to know was the exact distance between the first and tenth string. He did it in two peices to accomodate 5 strings on each side of the tighten screw.
Perfect job and it was $5.95. That was 3 years ago.[This message was edited by Roy Thomson on 17 August 2001 at 05:25 PM.] |
chas smith
Member From: Encino, CA, USA
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posted 19 August 2001 09:50 PM
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Roy, you have a 10 string Beard reso?[This message was edited by chas smith on 19 August 2001 at 10:59 PM.] |
Roy Thomson
Member From: Wolfville, Nova Scotia,Canada
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posted 20 August 2001 06:25 AM
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Chas:
I have a 10 string reso that I constructed myself.
Two years ago I installed a Quarterman Cone and got Paul to make the black ebony/maple bridge. Made a beautiful difference.
I play it sit-down style using an "X" piano
stand.
Thanks for asking.
Roy T.[This message was edited by Roy Thomson on 20 August 2001 at 06:25 AM.] |
Chris Schlotzhauer
Member From: Colleyville, Tx. USA
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posted 20 August 2001 06:27 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I disassembled my Dobro this weekend. Man, what a mess. I am ordering a new Quarterman cone and saddle blanks. I will order an extra just in case I screw up the first one. I think I have all the tools. Question...Do I first cut the blank in half, then glue it in place, measure and notch after glued? I don't see any other way to do it and get the measurements right since you have to split the blank around the tension screw.
Thanks again |
Mike D
Member From: Phx, Az
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posted 20 August 2001 08:45 AM
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Chris the saddle should come in two pieces (Beard sells pre-slotted one's too) The saddle doesn't need to be glued in place. I use a wood vice to set them and tricone T-bridge saddles too. Some builders add a small amount of white or yellow glue also but you should be able to get a solid friction fit.Yes notch after installing the saddles, also have everthing installed and string the two outside strings first to get everyting lined up squarely. You mentioned gett a Q-man cone. Keep in mind that the top may have to be routed/filed a bit to fit it. |
Chris Schlotzhauer
Member From: Colleyville, Tx. USA
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posted 20 August 2001 10:32 AM
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Mike, why would I have to route for the Q-man? Is that unique to the Q-man, or for any cone? Also, the order taker from Stew-Mac could not tell me if the blanks were pre-cut or slotted. All he knew was part number and price. |
chas smith
Member From: Encino, CA, USA
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posted 20 August 2001 11:02 AM
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Another thing to consider, years ago I had a 10-string Dobro made, because Red Rhodes had one with a diatonic tuning, and Peter Grant had one that sounded much better than mine so I took it back to the factory. Donald Young, National Resophonics, worked there at the time. Upon inspecting the guitar, he found that there was too much paint between the cone and the wood and after it was scraped off, the guitar 'opened up'.I have a Paul Beard 6 string, an expensive one that I couldn't really afford, that after I played it, I couldn't stop thinking about it, so out came the credit card, it's really head and shoulders above anything else I've played. |
Roy Thomson
Member From: Wolfville, Nova Scotia,Canada
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posted 20 August 2001 12:12 PM
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Chris if you "slot" the bridge yourself the bottom of the slot should not be flat. Rather it should slope towards the tail peice.
Otherwise you will get string buzz.
If I were you I would get Paul Beard to pre-slot your bridge, then you would not have to worry about it. Cost is minimal and it saves a ton of time. |
Mike D
Member From: Phx, Az
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posted 20 August 2001 03:50 PM
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Chris, I didn't realise that you were buying from S-Mac. I don't believe thay sell the pre-slotted ones.
It's fairly common to have to adjust the opening when installing a new cone, I had to on my Regal. You can also take the time and make sure the lip of the well is smooth and has good contact with the rim of the cone. This is also good time to sand the spider flat on the bottom. Use a good flat surface and double stick some 100 grit to it. This ensures the legs of the spider contact the cone rim evenly. It mimimizes buzzing and maximizes volume and tone. None of this stuff is too tough for a person with average tool skill, and niether is slotting the saddle yourself. Take your time, measure twice, cut once and I think you'll be happy. |
Chris Schlotzhauer
Member From: Colleyville, Tx. USA
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posted 20 August 2001 07:14 PM
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Mike,
I think I can do this, but if I knew where to buy them pre-notched (if any forumites know), I may consider. I noticed the Q-man cones come 10 9/16", and the spun Sew-Mac's come 10 1/2". My routed opening measures exactly 10 7/16". Can you trim those cones with scissors. I tried "dutchmans" (which are for cutting round duct openings in sheet metal)on my old cone. They pretty much butchered it. I'm afraid to trim a $60.00 cone. |
Gary Pederson
Member From: Van Nuys, Ca.
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posted 20 August 2001 08:26 PM
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I trimmed the Quarterman that I put in my OMI with a file. Tried to file an equal amount off all the way around. Of course you can't get it perfectly even all the way around with a file, but you can come very close. Stopped filing a number of times to check the fit. I stopped filing when I got it to barely fit (it was tight). I've since heard somewhere that it shouldn't be a real tight fit (might have been on the Beard video). Anyway, the dobro sounds very good. I've had it installed for about 4 years now. |
Mike D
Member From: Phx, Az
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posted 21 August 2001 07:33 AM
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Chris I forgot about this page http://www.geocities.com/paris/5701/dobro/dobro1.htm It's a pretty good primer on doing the swap, and a picture's worth a thousand posts.I had to "trim" some Quarterman tricone cones once and used Gary's method. I was able to stack them up and carefully run them on my disc sander. A fairly tight fit is OK, you just don't want it to be forced in or tweaked. |
Chris Schlotzhauer
Member From: Colleyville, Tx. USA
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posted 21 August 2001 10:55 AM
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Thanks for the link. Hey, that guy glued the cone in! I thought that was a no-no. Beards video says to leave playroom where the cone should move within the routing. My cone, that I removed, was basically glued in with silicone. In order for the Q-man to fit my routing loosly, I will have to trim about 1/8". |
Mike D
Member From: Phx, Az
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posted 21 August 2001 11:34 AM
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Glue shouldn't be needed, but is used when the fit on the well isn't what it should be, to prevent buzzing. I've heard people recommend white "Elmers" glue. I would NEVER use anything silicone based. If it migrates to the finish it's nearly unrepairable in the future. |
chas smith
Member From: Encino, CA, USA
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posted 21 August 2001 12:36 PM
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I would expect silicone to damp the vibrations which is exactly what you don't want. |
Ric Nelson
Member From: Silver Spring, Maryland
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posted 27 August 2001 05:43 AM
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Chirs:
You'lle way ahead of the game to let either Paul Beard of Gene Wooten make the bridge for you. It is well worth the small cost. |
Chris Schlotzhauer
Member From: Colleyville, Tx. USA
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posted 27 August 2001 08:05 AM
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OK. How do I get in touch with Paul Beard or Gene Wooten? |
Howard Parker
Member From: Clarksburg,MD USA
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posted 27 August 2001 09:44 AM
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Paul Beard is at 301-733-8271, Hagerstown, MDhp
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Howard Parker
poobah@resoguit.com
www.resoguit.com
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