E 	015
C#	018
C	018
B	018
A	022
G	024
F#	024
E	N30
D#	N34
D	N34
C#	N34
C	N34
Bb	N38
A	N38
G#	N56
Low C	C60
LowA	C65

Here is something else many of you may find helpful concerning string gauges by Jerry.

Selecting the right string gauges is dependent upon the variance in the grooves, or “slots”, in the nut. Some are too deep; others too small and so on--. Since there is no “set” pattern due to the wide range of string pitch used in today’s tunings, it sometimes takes a little “doctoring” to correct it.

First let’s begin with the strings you are now using--- regardless of the tuning you are using.

(1.) Place your bar on the first fret. Let it rest normally with only a slight down pressure just enough to make good contact. Now strum all the strings. Did each string make contact or were there a few “clinks” present?? If none – you are fortunate but if not, here’s a “quick fix”.

(2.) Tear or cut off a very small piece of paper-just enough to cover the slot. Fold it double, and then loosen the string in question. Slip the paper over the groove and under the string and tighten up to pitch. Place your bar back on the first fret and see if it is corrected. If so, continue the same process with each faulty string.

Of course, this looks “tacky” if you have 2 or 3 of these “inserts”, so here’s a more permanent “fix”. Go to a hardware store and get a small, triangular file (Δ and gently apply one or two small strokes to the slot or slots, that are higher so as to lower it to be on the same level as the grooves that are too low. Most nuts are now made of metal (aluminum, probably) so go slowly. Do this until you have them all uniform to the touch and you have contact all across the fret. The larger, wrapped strings will, of course, require a little more depth.

(3.) The last option would be in finding the correct string gauge that would fit the nut.

If a string is too small and not making bar contact, then move up a “number” on the gauge size. Example:

If you have a .028 and it fails to make good bar contact, or feels a little soft to the touch, then move up to an .030 gauge. Conversely, if your bar is “riding too high” you probably should determine which strings are involved and replace with a smaller gauge,-- usually this would be a wrapped string.

Here are the gauge numbers that I use for my diatonic tuning:

1st string E .015
2nd string C .017
3rd string B .018 (or .019)
4th string A .022
5th string G .024 (plain)
6th string F .028 (wrapped)
7th string E .030 (wrapped)

I use a 7-string neck-- not an 8-string with the 8th string eliminated. Since slants are prevalent in this tuning, I have always used a “short scale” neck (22 ¼ or 22 ½ inches) and string spacing of 3/8 of an inch.

JB

Edited by Brad Bechtel to improve formatting of the string gauge portion of this email.

Deep gratitude to you and to Jerry for sticking with the best spirit of the forum and keeping this timeless, invaluable information flowing from a venerated and respected master to us, his admirers and students.

I am the messenger Jerry is the man. His hope is to pass on as much of his knowledge on the steel from his 70+ years of playing experience these last few years of his life. I hope that I have not missed too many questions you all may have asked. I don't have time to read all the threads but usually read those I feel may be of interest to him, forward the questions if any and wait for a reply. I try to get his answers posted in a timely manner.

[This message was edited by Jack Byrd on 20 November 2002 at 03:50 PM.]