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Author Topic:   Tunings for 4-neck? (newbie)
Chris Brooks
Member

From: Providence, Rhode Island

posted 11 April 2003 07:01 AM     profile   send email     edit
I've owned a Fender 4 neck for years but have never set it up or played it.

I copied some tunings you guys have posted--b0b's E 13, A6, etc. Here are my questions.

Which neck should I start off playing? One of the middle ones, for comfort? So which tuning do you recommend for that neck? I guess I am after the Western swing sound, but again, I am new to non-pedal.

(I play an S 12 extended E-9 pedal steel, BTW).

I have a Jim Burden (big) bar, but it has the indentation in the end for thumb grip. OK for non-pedal?

Thanks in advance for all your ideas or suggestions.

Chris

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now living in the Ocean State ....

Ray Montee
Member

From: Portland, OR, USA

posted 11 April 2003 02:14 PM     profile   send email     edit
HOW LONG? Have you had that beautiful instrument hidden under your bed? and WHY?
I have a four neck BIGSBY........ As a matter of self serving need, I put my C6th, on the nearest neck; Bud Issac's E7th/A6th on the next neck out; Speedy West's C#Min with chromatics on the bottom on the third neck out; and E6th like Speedy/Don Helms on the far outside neck. It has worked well for ME for decades.
I'd URGE YOU to stop differentiating between pedal and non-pedal models. They are BOTH steel guitars and offer DIFFERENT SOUNDS and possibilities. Go off in uncharted waters and surprise YOURSELF and those that choose to listen to you.

WHY NOT play around with all the tunings YOU LIKE.......and find the FAVORITE and put it where ever you prefer to have it. Then place the others "where ever". The farthest outside neck should be the least played, I'd think.
SOME OF THE FORUMITES giving you clues and likely who are most sincere, likely have never sat behind a four neck, so quit trying to please everyone else and PLEASE YOURSELF. YOU'RE THE ONE that's going to be playing it. Do IT YOUR WAY!
In this way, develop a unique style of your own, a sound others will associate with YOU and YOU ALONE!
Aside from DOBRO/bluegrass players.... I'd use whatever bar does it best FOR YOU!
You'll be relying on SLANTS to get the most from your four neck guitar so get a bar that you can control completely and easily.
Forget the blue thumb pick; the purple weeny bar; ten finger picks on both hands. Just get you some decent mid-priced strings and tune em up where you want them and let it fly.
Go the way most have gone for years. They made it and if you do likewise, you'll likely have fun and success for your efforts.
Okay? GOOD LUCK TO YOU!

Ron Randall
Member

From: Dallas, Texas, USA

posted 11 April 2003 06:45 PM     profile   send email     edit
I play a T8 Stringmaster and fooled around with with many different tunings and busted lots of strings.

If you play with a band, think about most of the keys they play in. You don't want to be on the zero fret or the 12th fret. So tune one side or the other.

Tunings?
Don Helms E6
B6 with B,D#,F# triad on top. B6 and E6 complement each other.(easy to switch necks)
Leon's E13 for rockabilly, blues, big strum chords.
Maybe C#m for Sleepwalk, and some nice jazz chords.

Bar size? I think you will find the smaller the better until it too small, then go up a notch. I tried a 3/4 but my hand would cramp. A 7/8 is a better size for me. The cutout for slants is handy. The 7/8 red rajah is hollowed out, therefore lighter and very fast on the strings.

Hope this helps.

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Stringmaster T8, Benoit 8, National Tricone


Doug Beaumier
Member

From: Northampton, MA

posted 12 April 2003 06:47 PM     profile   send email     edit
Hi Chris,

I'd suggest that you go with an "E based" tuning, such as E13, E9, or E7. Also a 6th tuning, either C6 or A6.

As you know, I too have a quad stringmaster, and on one of the necks I put the standard E9 pedal steel tuning, strings 1 through 8. On another neck I have an A6(sus4)… same as standard E9 pedal steel strings 1 through 8 with pedals A & B held down and the second string lowered 1/2 tone (lever E). This works for me because I've been playing E9 PSG for 30 years and I can transfer over a lot of stuff to these two non-pedal tunings. It makes it easier to jump on the chords and to come up with licks right away. The other two tunings I'm using are E13 and C6/A7. My E13 is a work-in-progress, but progress has been slow lately because the guitar spends a lot of time sitting in the case!


C6/A7

1 E .014
2 C .017
3 A .020P
4 G .024W
5 E .030
6 C# .036
7 C .036
8 A .042


A6 (sus4)

1 F# .013
2 D .016
3 A .010
4 E .014
5 C# .017
6 A .020P
7 F# .026W
8 E .030


Eadd9

1 F# .013
2 D# .015
3 G# .011
4 E .014
5 B .018P
6 G# .024W
7 F# .026
8 E .030


E13

1 E .014
2 C# .017
3 B .018P
4 G# .024W
5 E .030
6 D .034
7 B .038
8 E .056

My A6 is not a standard A6 non-pedal tuning because the tuning is an outgrowth of the E9 pedal steel tuning (strings 1 - 8). Since I already play standard E9 PSG chromatic tuning (on which the upper strings are out of sequence), I set up my A6 on the Quad to mirror the E9 PSG tuning with pedals A & B down and string 2 lowered 1/2 tone. I wouldn't suggest this sequence for someone starting out on A6 lap steel, but if a player is used to E9 PSG, it makes perfect sense. If a player already has a lot of patterns and finger rolls worked out on PSG, he can just transfer these riffs over to this lap steel tuning.

E9 PSG (st. 1 - 8). Press pedals A & B and lower string two 1/2 tone to produce A6(sus4)


E9 PSG A6sus4 (same as E9 PSG with pedals A & B & knee lever E)

F# ----------- F#
D# ----------> D
G# ----------> A
E ----------- E
B ----------> C#
G# ----------> A
F# ----------- F#
E ----------- E

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My Site - Instruction | Doug's Free Tab | Steels and Accessories

[This message was edited by Doug Beaumier on 12 April 2003 at 10:45 PM.]

David L. Donald
Member

From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

posted 13 April 2003 05:21 AM     profile   send email     edit
Doug very nice post.
If your were going to put any of these tunings on a 6 string, which strings of the 8 would you use?
HowardR
Member

From: N.Y.C.,N.Y.

posted 13 April 2003 05:32 AM     profile   send email     edit
Likewise Doug, thanks, and a question (anyone), if you will....with regard to the 8 string C6/A7 tuning, what is your opinion of this variation?;

1. D (one tone lower than second string)
2. E
3. C
4. A
5. G
6. E
7. C#
8. C

[This message was edited by HowardR on 13 April 2003 at 04:25 PM.]

Jon Light
Member

From: Brooklyn, NY

posted 13 April 2003 06:25 AM     profile   send email     edit
Does anybody ever reverse 7&8 on the C6/A7? In other words keep the C6 pure 1 thru 7 and put the C# as the 8th string?
HowardR
Member

From: N.Y.C.,N.Y.

posted 13 April 2003 09:45 AM     profile   send email     edit
Jon, I'll answer that question in reverse.

I don't because I like having a straight dom 7th chord without a skip grip. I like to be able to strum, and so I use my left thumb to mute the bottom C. In addition it gives me a little percussive effect. I also have the option to mute the 1st & 2nd string with my left ring finger behind the bar (pulled back), so that I can strum with wild abandon. This is on my 7 string resonator.

Now I know why you play pedals....

[This message was edited by HowardR on 14 April 2003 at 08:39 AM.]

Jesse Pearson
Member

From: San Diego , CA

posted 13 April 2003 11:45 AM     profile   send email     edit
Howard, the mute with the left thumb makes perfect sense. Now C6/A7 seems allot clearer to me, many thanks for that.
John Bechtel
Member

From: Nashville, Tennessee,U.S.A.

posted 13 April 2003 12:55 PM     profile   send email     edit
Jon, It has always been my understanding that this is the manor in which the "Master" (JB) tunes the 8str. neck of his Sho-Bud! A,c#,c,e,g,a,c,e "Big John" http://community.webtv.net/KeoniNui/BigJohnBechtels
C Dixon
Member

From: Duluth, GA USA

posted 13 April 2003 02:10 PM     profile   send email     edit
The C on the bottom, THEN the C# the next string up is the way JB does it. Most of us who play this tuning, set it up this way; because of the strummed A7th. Since the C major or C6 chord rarely is strummed (if ever) from the root note on this tuning the way JB plays it. But the A7th is strummed all the time. So I must agree that it is best to have the C# above the C.

Incidently that A note on string 8 is a low low A note. It is the same note as the 10th string on a D-10 (C6 neck) with pedal 8 engaged. Since this is a large gauge string, it is often necessary to file the nut groove deeper to keep from having to use excessive bar pressure at the lower frets.

Jerry will often bump this low A note in a staccato affect when music calls for it, creating a nice embelishment to his wizardy.

carl

Jesse Pearson
Member

From: San Diego , CA

posted 13 April 2003 02:31 PM     profile   send email     edit
My JB instruction book spells out C6/A7 as:

E
C
A
G
E
C#
C
Low A

Chris Brooks
Member

From: Providence, Rhode Island

posted 14 April 2003 06:59 AM     profile   send email     edit
Thanks, guys for your informative and encouraging replies.

BTW, I am using a 1 inch Burden bar. Is this too big to get the slants? Or as Ray says, find what you like and go with it.

Ray, I appreciate your prodding! You know how it is: you buy an instrument on the spur of the moment, say to yourself, "One of these days I'm going to set that thing up and learn it," 20 years go by and you realize it's still under the bed--or in the storage unit as my Fender is!

Doug, your suggestions make a lot of sense. Thanks, and I hope to see you and your rig at the Mass Bash. I am glad you bought the 3-neck last month.

Chris

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now living in the Ocean State ....

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