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Author Topic:   Double-coursed Steel Guitar
Alan F. Brookes
Member

From: Brummy living in California, USA

posted 29 March 2006 03:08 PM     profile   send email     edit
I'm new to this forum. I've been building many types of instruments since about 1962. My first lap steel was made in 1963 out of an old door, and I've built many since then. Brought up in Birmingham, England, I concentrated on building Mediaeval instruments such as the cittern, various hummels, renaissance guitars, etc. They all have double courses, so it was natural that I should build a double-course steel. In 1972 I built a double-16 console lap steel. It had two necks, both with 8 double courses. The courses were unison, like a mandolin, rather than octave, as on a 12-string guitar. I always liked the way the instrument sounded. Now, 34 years later, and 5000 miles away in Oakland, California, I'm about to start work on another double-16. I haven't decided yet whether to tune the pairs in unison or octaves. It seems to me that tuning in octaves would add depth to the sound, and allow the playing of chords with fewer fingers.

Now I can understand why you wouldn't want to put double courses on a pedal steel... you'd spend all day tuning it, and trying to equalize the pull on the courses... but with a non-pedal steel, why not ?

I realise that if you had an octave string with a different gauge you would have to be careful matching the height of the strings at the nut and bridge, or the steel would touch the heavier of the two strings and rattle on the thinner.

I've searched the forum for this subject, but cannot find any mention of double-coursed instruments. Has anyone out there any experience or ideas on the subject ?

Jon Light
Member

From: Brooklyn, NY

posted 29 March 2006 03:16 PM     profile   send email     edit
Be aware that slanting the bar to achieve 2 and 3 string harmonies that are not present with a straight bar in a fixed tuning is a standard technique of steel playing. Your paired octave or unison strings would not fare well with a bar slant.
However I'm all for invention. A steel guitar without bar slants is still a musical instrument. BTW--others have done this before. Maybe they will contribute to this discussion.
Michael Johnstone
Member

From: Sylmar,Ca. USA

posted 29 March 2006 03:18 PM     profile   send email     edit
It's been done before. I've seen an old 16 string(8 course)Sho-bud I believe it was - or maybe a Marlen,over at Chas Smith's house.It must have been a one-off experiment because I've never seen or even heard of another one.
Alan F. Brookes
Member

From: Brummy living in California, USA

posted 29 March 2006 03:33 PM     profile   send email     edit
Wow ! I post a topic and replies come straight back. What a forum !

Jon: You're probably right. I've been playing for decades but have never done much slant work. I would have thought that the two octave strings would have been close enough together that the amount of out-of-tune-ness caused by the slant would not be very perceivable. I've noticed that you can get the strings a lot closer together than most manufacturers do on 12-string guitars, without buzzing.

Michael: I hadn't head of the Sho-Bud, but if Shot Jackson has tried it out there must be something in it !

Michael Lee Allen
Member

From: Fresno CA USA

posted 29 March 2006 03:36 PM     profile   send email     edit
I have a very early Sho-Bud "Octave" steel. 16 strings in 8 courses. It originally came with three pedals and the pedals raised the "regular" and "octave" strings at the same time. A disaster that would never work and constantly break the octave strings. If an octave string didn't break it wouldn't come back anywhere in tune. I got this without the legs, pedal bar, pedals, rods, and case. I am having a new case built for it plus Atlas microphone stands are being modified so it will have fully adjustable legs. All the underside mechanism is there but it would be a waste of time and money to have repro Sho-Bud pedals and a pedalboard made. It is in Billy Hew Len's A6th+b5th+9th tuning. Big chords. No bar slants. It works. One of my favorite guitars of all time was a late 1960's electric square-neck 12 string Mosrite Dobro. That was in open D. No bar slants either so I was OK. Had it for years and years.
Chris Scruggs
Member

From: Nashville, Tennessee, USA

posted 29 March 2006 11:45 PM     profile   send email     edit
I've considered doing something like this on a Fender 400 as I think the chimey sustained sound of a pedal steel would mix well with the jangly electric 12 string guitar sound, and it would be easy to change a 400 around for a quick experimant.

I would tune it to open E to open A like this:
-----------1-----2
1. E
2. E
3. B-----C#
4. B-----C#
5. G#----------A
6. G#----------A
7. E
8. E

The high E's and B's would be tuned in unison, with the 6th sting G# and 8th string E being an octave higher than standard. You would have to pluck strings two at a time(strings 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6, 7 and 8), so chords would be difficult (but the electric octave 12 string sound is one of individual notes, anyways).

It goes without saying that this is NOT an "all night long in a honkytonk" tuning. It would be cool for a song here and there in the studio. Basically, it would sound like a twelve string Rickenbacker with a B bender.

I think I'll go try this right now.

CS

[This message was edited by Chris Scruggs on 29 March 2006 at 11:46 PM.]

[This message was edited by Chris Scruggs on 29 March 2006 at 11:47 PM.]

Chris Scruggs
Member

From: Nashville, Tennessee, USA

posted 30 March 2006 12:43 AM     profile   send email     edit
Wow. Fun. All I would add is a tthird pedal to raise the 7th and 8th string Es up to F#.

Oh, Brad. I know this doesn't relate to non pedal steel, but it relates to the topic, so I decided to post. Besides, I don't think the pedal community (in general) would care at all about this kind of thing as they seem to be a fairly standardized bunch.

It sounds similar to the chorus effect heard on country records in the 80s, but not as cheesy or artificial (seeing as it's a natural sound and not an "effect"). It sounds great strummed across all eight strings. Very autoharpish and spacey.

Hooray for octave steel guitar!

CS

John Bushouse
Member

From:

posted 30 March 2006 05:27 AM     profile   send email     edit
Debashish Bhattacharya created the Ghandarvi, which features 6 double courses (and two drones, and 12 sympathetic strings):

Sound clip

[This message was edited by John Bushouse on 30 March 2006 at 05:28 AM.]

[This message was edited by John Bushouse on 30 March 2006 at 05:29 AM.]

Andy Volk
Member

From: Boston, MA

posted 30 March 2006 05:55 AM     profile   send email     edit
I've seen this guitar up close; it's an amazing critter.
Alan F. Brookes
Member

From: Brummy living in California, USA

posted 30 March 2006 12:44 PM     profile   send email     edit
Well, I think the best thing for me to do is to build the instrument and then post a soundbite.

While I'm on the subject, I built a hammered dulcimer a few years ago, and came up with the idea of building a hammered dulcimer with octave strings, which would be the same diameter but twice the length. I could put a dampening pedal on the octave strings, which would allow me to play the instrument as a standard dulcimer or push the pedal and add octave harmonies.

Travis Bernhardt
Member

From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

posted 02 April 2006 01:10 AM     profile   send email     edit
I don't believe I've heard any electric playing but I've heard Debashish and Kelly Joe Phelps (albeit KJP only on record) and they're both well worth seeking out if you want to hear some of the possibilities (KJP's album Roll Away the Stone has some striking playing on it--I don't know where to point you for recordings by Debashish).

My main acoustic guitar is a twelve-string (six double-courses) flat top with a raised nut. The nut is stock, not modified in any way to account for the string rattle problem you mentioned, and strung with an off-the-shelf pack of light guage strings (so the first two courses are unisons, the next four octaves). I tune to the usual open tunings (G, C, D).

The rattle isn't a huge issue, but it exists. Sometimes I can work it into the music, sometimes I have to fight it. I imagine it would be worse on an electric with the intent of playing something pristine. Slants don't really work that well, but I don't play a style that needs slants on that guitar. If I have to, certain slants will work, with care (in some cases the uneven string heights can be an advantage, since they keep certain strings out of the way a little!).

Oh, I just remembered, it's not so much the height of the slots--although that does matter--it's the curvature of the cheap plastic nut. It's designed for a fretboard with a slight curve, not for contact with a straight bar, so up to the second fret I have to press really hard to get all the strings to make full contact. Not a problem if I capo.

I put up with the minor nuisances because the sound is distinctive--not everybody is doing it--and because it does sound really good. Now, the guitar itself is terrible, and horribly unbalanced (the fifth string course is WAY louder than the others, for instance), but even still it gets good comments from people. I can't imagine actually having a decent guitar to abuse in this way.

It's not clear to me whether you're thinking of building an electric or an acoustic guitar--either way, good luck, and I'd love to hear it!

-Travis

Alan F. Brookes
Member

From: Brummy living in California, USA

posted 02 April 2006 12:59 PM     profile   send email     edit
Travis:

The instrument that I shall be building will be an electric console non-pedal steel. It will have two necks, each with 6 double courses, one tuned to C6 and the other to E9.

You've guessed it... I've been addicted to the 12-string guitar since a teenager. I have nine at the moment. I also have three 12-string citterns, and two 14-course lutes, plus eight mandolines, all of which have double courses. I also have a trichordia, which has treble courses. With this instrument I put the octave string in the middle, surrounded by two in unison. Being a longtime builder of mediaeval instruments, most of my instruments are double coursed.

What I haven't yet decided is whether to put octave or unison courses on the steel guitar.

By the way, there is another way to tune double courses, and that is in fifths. If you look at a hammered dulcimer it is set up so that if you hit both sides of the bridge simultaneously you automatically get harmony in fifths. Of course, if you set up a guitar or a steel like that you have to be very very very careful when playing chords !

Travis Bernhardt
Member

From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

posted 02 April 2006 06:46 PM     profile   send email     edit
Sounds great. Seeing as how it's a double neck you could conceivably set up one neck in octaves and one in unison, then either keep it that way or swap out the nut of the one you like least.

I've played a little with tuning in different intervals than octaves, but haven't gone very deep into that. I've tried everything (including minor seconds) but haven't really given it the time I would need to get a proper feel for it.

One thing that comes to mind is that I would consider tuning one of the necks to a bigger open chord--something really strummable--but I guess decisions like that are a fair way off at this point.

I really highly recommend checking out Kelly Joe Phelps' CD Roll Away the Stone, too, while you're on your way. Not sure if his kind of blues is your thing, but the twelve-string tunes are pretty mind blowing.

-Travis

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