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This topic is 2 pages long: 1 2 This topic was originally posted in this forum: Pedal Steel |
Author | Topic: Williams D-10 Crossover |
Greg Vincent Member Posts: 727 |
![]() ![]() Beautiful guitar, bOb. I hope it is all you've ever wished for. The underside looks so CLEAN! Cool cats, too! >^..^< Greg |
Al Gershen Member Posts: 432 |
![]() ![]() Hi B0b Lee: Congradulations of your acquisition of the Williams crossover D10 pedal steel guitar. I hope this instrument gives you years of enjoyment. On one of your earlier postings under this subject thread, you said: "There's nothing to compare the crossover with, except the old Sho-Buds. Actually there's no comparison - the Williams 400x is smooth working, modern machine. The Sho-Bud crossover never came close." You failed to mention the crossover designed for the Fender PS 210 by Gene Fields (now of GFI). On my PS 210, once I adjusted the pedal linkage between both necks, I find that this very simple mechanical crossover device works very well; and while playing the instruent, it's almost transparent when you move the lever to change the pedals and knee levers from one neck to another. The failure of the PS 210 in the steel guitar music world, I believe had to do more with Gene's choice of a pedal changer (that operates like the ones in the Harlin Brothers Multi-Kords and the 1st generation 1939 Gibson Electraharp) than any other aspect of the instrument. I just wanted to give credit to Gene for his effort. The PS 210 came out in 1970 and only 15 were commercially sold by Fender. What year did the Sho-Bud Crossover model come out? Finally, I glanced as some of the photos you took of your new Williams and I'm courious about the location of the right knee levers. I hope that you see my point here. Some players probably never use their right foot to press any pedals (I don't do it that often) but if the knee levers are too far to the right, you're going to have to be a minor contortionist (you have to be one of these anyway to pay most pedal steels) to reach these above listed pedals. I look forward to yours and other SGF member comments on the points I made with my posting. Have a very good weekend and have lots of fun with your new guitar. ------------------ |
Bobby Lee Sysop Posts: 14849 |
![]() ![]() I don't normally use my right foot on the pedals, Al. If I did, that would be a disadvantage to this design. I can reach P5 with my right foot, but I'm sure I couldn't hit P4 if my life depended on it. The knee levers are set to the same comfortable distance that I have on my Sierra S-12. I took measurements and sent them to Bill Rudolph before he set up the guitar. They are spread to my natural sitting position. ------------------ |
Al Gershen Member Posts: 432 |
![]() ![]() Hi Bob Lee: Thanks for your reply. I noticed on the Fender PS 210, when configured with 5 pedals and 4 knee levers, that it allows you to put the volume pedal to the right of floor pedal 5. This way, you don't have to move your right foot very far to reach pedals 4 or 5, if that's desired. As I can remember when I saw Buddy Emmons playing his C6th tuning in live performances, he often used his right foot on the far right pedals. Even Red Rhodes did the same thing and I was able to observe him many times while I lived in Los Angeles. I'm not necessarily an advocate of this type of playing but there are chord combinations available that can't otherwise be made with the left foot on the pedals and knee levers alone. For myself, I find the general playing position to be very confortable on the Fender PS 210, as I suspect you will or have on your new Williams PSG. On my Fender 1000, with its 10 floor pedals, it's very diffcult for me to hit pedals 9 and 10 with my left foot. I can get to pedal 9 most of the time but pedal 10 is partially blocked by my volume pedal. I don't have long legs and it's a real stretch to get those outer pedals. Well, enough discussion on this matter. Go back and enjoy your new Williams PSG. Regards, |
Bobby Lee Sysop Posts: 14849 |
![]() ![]() I'm sure that if I had wanted my right knee levers closer to P5, Bill Rudolph would have figured out how to do it. The distance between knees was per my specification. Also, my copedent has the P8 pulls on LKL, eliminating the need for some of the common two-footed tricks. [This message was edited by Bobby Lee on 19 February 2001 at 12:43 AM.] |
CHIP FOSSA Member Posts: 2536 |
![]() ![]() b0b, Beautiful Williams, indeed. I noticed you have the knee lever extenders on. That's a good move. I started off with 2 from Bill, and then wound up putting them on all 6 levers. Sure seems to give you better action, I think. I found that my size in relation to my Williams had my knees just catching the very ends of most levers; and when I ordered the guitar, I asked Bill to shorten rods/legs by an inch. And I still was barely catching the knee levers. But now with the extenders, there is much greater control. I had Bill custom make a few of the extenders with slots in them on the flat face of the extender. This allows the extender to not only be moved up and down, but also forward and back. I have 2 right My U-12 [8 x 6] came thru with a natural You've got yourself one great instrument there. Play the dickens out of it. chipsahoy |
Bobby Lee Sysop Posts: 14849 |
![]() ![]() I didn't order the knee lever extenders. Maybe they're standard on this model. I got the 1" shorter legs and rods too. That inch makes a big difference to me. |
CHIP FOSSA Member Posts: 2536 |
![]() ![]() Maybe Bill is now including them with many new orders. Then again, he may have figured to put them on for you, because you had him lower everything 1". Or did they come thru at first, before the lowering? Anyway, I think you and I are roughly the same demensions, and I know you'll really love and favor those extenders. Best of luck, b0b |
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