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Pedal Steel Archive Are we hocus-pocussing with hodge- podge tuning methods ? (Page 2) UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone!
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This topic is 2 pages long: 1 2 This topic was originally posted in this forum: Pedal Steel |
Author | Topic: Are we hocus-pocussing with hodge- podge tuning methods ? |
Jack Stoner Sysop Posts: 8119 |
posted 23 May 2001 07:35 AM
Bill, this doesn't directly relate to the tuning key ratio, however the nylon rod tuners on my Franklin are 6-40 thread, rather than the common 6-32. The 6-40 would relate to gear ratio on the tuning keys. |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 23 May 2001 08:47 AM
Hi Jack, Thanks for your input on ratios. The rods on your Franklin are threaded to 6-40 instead of 6-32 because this feature gives them more threads per inch, which in turn inhibits less slippage as the constant adjustments tend to cut into the I.D. of the elongated nylon tuning chamber nut.This is perceived when a much played instrument seems to "fall" out of tune, when in actuality, it is the nylon adjustment threads slipping. The 6-32 thread has a tendency to slip long before the 6-40, something like a shark with missing teeth. The worm type gear in the tuner keys, was used in the 19th century, as well as today. It has been used throughout the centuries. Bill H. |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 23 May 2001 01:37 PM
Carson L, My friend lives in N.B., Canada. He is |
C Dixon Member Posts: 5912 |
posted 23 May 2001 01:56 PM
"Bobbe, It's great to see that you still use a common sense approach to solving a problem and haven't let that PHD interfere.Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with a person seeking as much formal education as he can" Truer words were NEVER spoken. And this goes for ANY knowledge. Aquired knowledge surrounded with Wisdom is what caused man to have NOT stayed a cave man!!!! I am delighted that Sir Isaac Newton was more interested in why an apple fell to the ground than he was eating the apple. I am equally delighted that Bejamin Franklin was more interested in lightning striking his kite (with a key) than he was in flying the kite. Some only one to use something. That is fine. But others create what those people use. More importantly they constantly strive to make what those people use, better. God bless you all, carl |
Bobby Lee Sysop Posts: 14849 |
posted 23 May 2001 02:21 PM
Nearly all of my best playing experiences have been outdoor gigs. Ah, California!!! |
Rick Collins Member Posts: 3286 |
posted 23 May 2001 02:50 PM
quote: Ah, California,___yes Bobby Lee; but don't forget to always rub down your guitar with UV/A, UV/B sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 before going on the set. |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 24 May 2001 06:26 AM
B0b L., I really appreciate all of the replies from people in different states, and from locations around the world. It is nothing short of an enjoyable avenue to express a new idea, where it will not be disregarded. At the end of summer, I fully intend to embark on a new concept, that will include building a new steel guitar which will be built of materials known to resist expansion, contraction, distortion, warping, and etc. I will make every effort to retard the unruly characteristics of guitar strings, as we know them. Steel is known by industries that its expansion properties do exist. Some form of substitution is in order to reduce the detuning dilemma as it relates to the steel guitar. I have been thinking in terms of a heating element within the main body of the steel guitar, to act as a countermeasure to assist in decreasing the troubling aspect of pitches moving away from the levels of previous adjustments. The many trips to our libraries, consulting with knowledgeable people, including those who have worked as technical engineers, machinists, draftspersons, etc., will keep me busy this coming autumn season. [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 24 May 2001 at 06:29 AM.] [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 24 May 2001 at 06:40 AM.] |
Jack Stoner Sysop Posts: 8119 |
posted 24 May 2001 07:19 AM
Bill, this will be interesting to see what develops. I don't think there has been a "scientifically" steel built, and by that I mean one that was designed by engineers with the various specialty fields needed to really address the issues. This is not to say that the steel builders do not know what they are doing, just that I don't think the approach of assembling "experts" in the various disciplines and then collaborating on a scientific steel has ever been attempted. Who knows what will come out of it. It could be technically superior in design and materials but not be practical or cost prohibitive and then again it may be the missing breakthrough in mechanical stability. However well engineered, the big story will be sustain and the eternally debateable tone. |
Jim Smith Member Posts: 6399 |
posted 24 May 2001 08:08 AM
Although it will probably sound like cr@p. |
Franklin Member Posts: 742 |
posted 24 May 2001 08:52 AM
This is a very important point. Tempering on tempered instruments. Individual strings need different scale lengths to tune accurately across the fretboard because of the way a piano is stretch tuned. Tempering is why the guitar and bass need an adjustable bridge. The adjustable bridge creates different scale lengths for individual strings to better blend with the piano in all octaves. Here is where the lights should switch on. The steel is not a tempered instrument because it cannot temper scale lengths according to the string gauge as does the guitar, bass, and piano. The bar is used for tempering and that tempering is done by ear and that is why we have so many unique and inherent problems. An adjustable bridge is the only way to make the steel guitar a truly tempered instrument. Then we could all use a one way fits all solution for tuning. When someone develops the adjustable bridge for steel guitars many of our unique and inherent tuning problems will simply vanish. Unfortunately, the bridge is not the place to vary the scale lengths on a pedal guitar. That would cause too many other mechanical tuning problems. The steel guitars scale adjustments will have to be accomplished from the other end, at the key head. Paul [This message was edited by Franklin on 24 May 2001 at 08:55 AM.] |
Jim Smith Member Posts: 6399 |
posted 24 May 2001 09:01 AM
Paul, I agree. Jerry Stark in Dallas builds his own pedal steels with vertically adjustable nut rollers and horizontally adjustable changer fingers. Perhaps someone has already played with this, but how about getting your dad to investigate horizontally adjustable roller nuts? |
Bob Hoffnar Member Posts: 4278 |
posted 24 May 2001 10:29 AM
Paul, How would a tempered keyhead on a steel affect the ratios between intervals that change as we move up the neck ? As in a major 6th on strings 3 and 5 at fret 3 is quite a bit different than the same thing at fret 15. Bob |
Johan Jansen Member Posts: 2207 |
posted 24 May 2001 11:42 AM
I think, with the today's techniques I'm aware of, it's impossible. It means that the keyhead should have communication with the bar, what depends movement on the lenght of the string thats vibrating. Talking about cybersteel... Who knows.. JJ |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 24 May 2001 01:51 PM
Paul F., Thank you for your interesting input!! I respect, and value highly the message that you forwarded which relates to the original thread. I can only hope for a continuation of your knowledgeable inner resources, of which I hold in high esteem. Bill Hankey [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 25 May 2001 at 05:58 AM.] [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 25 May 2001 at 08:04 AM.] |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 25 May 2001 07:48 AM
Hi Jim S., Do you recall the period of time back in the early eighties, when The DEKLEY STEEL GUITAR factory produced their instruments in great quantities? I have a like new changer assembly here, which I have been going over from time to time while viewing its leverage concept. It is held together by that punched out 3/32 plate, which is fastened to the pillow blocks (nonbearing) by two 13/32 cap diameter, phillips screws. These screws will not turn out by the usual method of placing a screwdriver into the recess, and turning counterclockwise, due to their design. They are zinc coated, and feature shallow recesses. Successfully removing them will require a trip to my workbench, where they will be introduced to some of my special tools. Jim, did Bob D. and Jim G. opt to change anything in the original design of the universal changer? Those flared brass rivots, which are utilized to join both the lower and raise by 1/16 flat stock fingers are interesting. Would you care to relive some of those days, and share with us what must have been jam packed with decision making, and checking every detail of the DEKLEY steel guitar? This changer I'm holding is a ten string, circa early eighties. Bill H. [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 25 May 2001 at 07:57 AM.] |
Jim Smith Member Posts: 6399 |
posted 25 May 2001 09:01 AM
I left Dekley and New England in November of 1980 but I believe the changers stayed the same after that. The pillow block screws are 10-32, 100 degree taper, right hand thread, flat heads. We used blue or possibly red loctite on the threads to keep them from backing out since they are not accessible on an assembled guitar. A few taps with an impact driver with a #2 Philips bit should loosen them easily. To the best of my recollection the brass rivets aren't anything special and I believe were the same as MSA used. We had a flaring machine with an adjustable stop to ensure that they were all done the same. To me the most "interesting" part of the changer is the changer finger itself. Rather than use aluminum with it's propensity to get scratched and gouged by the strings, Bob DeKam designed a stamped metal finger with a fold-over tab to hold the string. Spot welded to that was a round cylinder that the string rides on. All we had to do was a quick sand and buff then send them out to be chromed. I've played my D-12 for over 20 years and it still shows absolutely no signs of wear. ------------------ |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 25 May 2001 11:10 AM
Jim S. I would like for you to scrutinize this changer on July 15th, and tell me then if the flaring tool did its job according to your standards. I'm just curious about this matter. Bill H. |
Jim Smith Member Posts: 6399 |
posted 25 May 2001 11:22 AM
I'd be glad to. |
Dave Van Allen Member Posts: 5369 |
posted 25 May 2001 11:36 AM
quote:
put the changer at the current NUT position (fret zero), and put an horizontally adjustable roller nut at the PICKUP end of the guitar... [This message was edited by Dave Van Allen on 25 May 2001 at 11:38 AM.] [This message was edited by Dave Van Allen on 25 May 2001 at 11:39 AM.] |
Bill Hankey Member Posts: 1680 |
posted 26 May 2001 08:03 AM
Jim S., I was not aware of the fact that DEKLEY used glues to eliminate the possibility of either of the two 10/32 machine screws backing off from their seats in the 3/32 stamped plate. That little tip tipped the scales in my favor. I had previously tried to remove them through ordinary procedures; without success. The shallow recesses of the Phillips type screws prevented me from using any force, because of the bonding material. After reading your reply, I picked up the DEKLEY universal changer, and went directly to my bench. It was there that I was able come to terms with Bob DeKam's creation. Maybe the use of Allen screws which would facilitate getting a real grip with the Allen wrench,( which was developed first in 1943, during the 2nd World War, in Hartford, Ct,) would have been very helpful in this application. Bob D. could have entertained the notion that the need for ever having to remove the screws was close to nil, and if the need arose, the work would be placed in the hands of someone who would treat it as another day, another dollar. Once I learned that the threads were cemented, I used my mini- socking machine to demonstrate a bit of persuasion. This was done pursuant to your advice. After their removal I proceded to dismantle the changer at the pillow blocks. I was a little surprised to learn that Bob D. had selected a 1/2" cross shaft in an attempt to thwart distortion; brought about by a significant amount of string exertion. He utilized a nonmagnetic round stock (stainless steel) which inhibits rusting, while the changer fingers are made from magnetic steel, which is subject to mass rusting, or rapid oxidation, if left in areas of extreme dampness. I learned many things by removing the pillow blocks, and observing the parts at close range. Would you care to elaborate upon those plated, donut style heavy washers that the strings rest on? They show 3 fastening points to Bob Dekam's string holder. You referred to welding, as the means used to fasten the two parts. Is it possible that he moved on to small steel pins, using a press to force the pins in place? If not, the spot weld looks great. Bill H. [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 26 May 2001 at 08:10 AM.] [This message was edited by Bill Hankey on 27 May 2001 at 05:46 AM.] |
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