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Author Topic:   Peterson Strobe Stomp
Randy Beavers
Member

From: Lebanon,TN 37090

posted 02 August 2004 03:53 PM     profile     
I picked one of these little tuners up and thought I'd give it a try. They're kind of cute. I programed in my presets just like I did on my V-Sam. I works perfectly! Very user friendly. Actually it is a little faster to get to your user prests than the big unit. The display is just as bright and easy to read, has a true bypass switch, and an active DI out. There is no on and off switch to go bad or forget about. Just plug it in, and it's on. Unplug it and it's off. Rugged looking little thing also. John told me they actually played a few innings of "tunerball" with it to see how durable they were.

If anyone's interested I'll post my presets.

------------------
Randy
http://hometown.aol.com/pulltightb/home.html

David Spires
Member

From: Nashville, TN USA

posted 02 August 2004 05:52 PM     profile     
Hey Randy,

I'd love to see what your presets are, as I picked up the VS-II at NAMM. I'm actually thinking about getting a Stomp for my Dobro rig (using the DI too).

The Peterson units are great aren't they?
Thanks,

David Spires

Jim Cohen
Member

From: Philadelphia, PA

posted 02 August 2004 08:02 PM     profile     
Hey Randy,
I have a StroboStomp on order now; sure, let's see your presets...
Cheers,
Jimbeaux
Randy Beavers
Member

From: Lebanon,TN 37090

posted 03 August 2004 04:11 AM     profile     
When you program the StroboStomp it starts with the low C and progresses chromatically through B, then gives you a high E so you can "stretch" the tuning, as you'll see. Your temperment will also vary by the amount of cabinet drop in your guitar. That being said, your mileage may vary.

P1 (E9th)

1. F# -02.2
2. D# -15.0
3. G# -10.4
4. E +02.0 (This is the high E setting)
5. B +03.4
6. G#
7. F#
8. E +04.6
9. D -01.4
10 B

P2 (C6th)

1. D -03.0
2. E -10.0 (High setting)
3. C 0
4. A -12.0
5. G +03.7
6. E -08.0
7. C
8. A
9. F +03.0
10 C

These are just the open tuning settings. I don't bother tuning my pedals with a tuner, maybe laziness on my part. But I figure if they were in tune when I left the guitar...

[This message was edited by Randy Beavers on 03 August 2004 at 04:16 AM.]

Joey Ace
Sysop

From: Southern Ontario, Canada

posted 03 August 2004 12:41 PM     profile     
More about it here: http://steelguitarforum.com/Forum11/HTML/005500.html

If you plan to use it as a direct box (I don't) you should have an external power supply. That mode eats batteries.
If you just use it as a tuner the battery life is fine.

The true bypass really works. It's the only tuner I've ever been able to use in-line without hearing a difference.

Rick Schmidt
Member

From: Carlsbad, CA. USA

posted 06 August 2004 04:06 PM     profile     
How much does one of these cost?
Joey Ace
Sysop

From: Southern Ontario, Canada

posted 07 August 2004 07:15 AM     profile     
A Google search showed prices for just under $200 US.
Rick Schmidt
Member

From: Carlsbad, CA. USA

posted 07 August 2004 01:46 PM     profile     
Thanks Joey. Who needs Google when I've got you guys?
Jim Cohen
Member

From: Philadelphia, PA

posted 16 August 2004 07:31 PM     profile     
Well, I finally got mine and am trying to set it up tonite, and got a few questions for y'all. The "manual" (one sheet) presumes that one has used a strobe tuner before, which I have not. Here are my questions; appreciate your help guys:

1. Most of the time there are just 3 lines of black/white bars rolling around, but sometimes a 4th appears on the left, just temporarily. Why? What does that mean?

2. I presume if the bars are generally rolling up, you need to flatten the string and vice versa, right? And you tune until ALL THREE bars have stablized, right?

3. While tuning a string, there's a little subscript number (1, 2, 3, or 4) next to the letter name of the note. What's that mean? If it's an octave indicator, that's weird because I'm just playing one string, not several octaves (unless it's picking up the overtones?)

4. Also while tuning a string, I'll suddenly see the bars go away for a moment, revealing either "##" or "bb". Does the "##", for example, mean I need to GO sharper, or that I'm ALREADY too sharp and need to GO flatter?

5. It doesn't look like you can tune two strings of the same pitch, but different octaves, by a different amount of offset. For instance, all 3 C's on the C neck have to have the same amount of offset; is that correct? (The only apparent exception being a low E vs a high E, thanks to 6 string guitarists)

6. Randy, when you wrote no offset next to your 10th string, low B string, but have +03.4 next to your 5th string B, am I correct that you actually tune the low B to the +03.4 also, since you can't get a different offset for the same pitch in a different octave?

7. Why is none of this in the freakin' manual??

Thanks guyz.
Jimbeaux

Harold Dye
Member

From: Cullman, Alabama, USA

posted 16 August 2004 08:36 PM     profile     
Jim,
I have a VS II. I assume the manual for it will offer some explanation for your tuner. As to the bars: At higher pitches ( from Octave 4 and up), the lower bands do not convey useful indications of tuning. If shown they would appear to move randomly while the higher bands show true relative tuning motion. To avoid this distraction the lower bands are blanked out when the higher octave pitches are detected.

As to the ## and bb...for visual tuning of the VS II ( and I assume for yours) of higher octave sounds, normally auto note selection will adjust the tuner to the scale-note of the incoming sound. Usually this means the incoming sound can vary by +/- 50 cents before the reference scale note indication is adjusted. As the incoming sound goes flatter (lower frequency) compared to the auto note frequency, the strobe image will appear to move downward at an increasing rate. Conversely as the sound goes sharper relative to the scale note the image appears to move upward at an increasing rate. Normally this movement is easy to see over the entire +/- 50 cent range. However for notes at higer octaves the rate of movement when approaching the 50 ct. offset extremes become difficult to see with eye. In the case of the VS II ( and yours I presume) will produce the appropriate ## or bb in place of the strobe.

As to the note with the small number beside it...this is an indication of the octave of that given note. You will notice on notes of octaves 1 to 3 all four bands will be shown. But on octaves 4 and up you usually will see only 3. So as you tune the strings some low ans some hi you will see a different octave number for that given string.

I hope this helps. I just got this thing a couple of weeks ago and while I am very pleased with it, it does take some getting used to. I have found that I can tune by just turning it on and moveing to Tmpr:Equ, but I have read this manual several times before it started to sink in, and I am not really sure it has. What I have found is, once I was able to pull up the E9 and C6, all the rest becomes somewhat useless to me, as I am not really sure I understand all I know about it.

Hope this helps as I copied it out of my manual.

Randy Beavers
Member

From: Lebanon,TN 37090

posted 17 August 2004 05:07 AM     profile     
Hey Jimbeaux.

The manual for the Strobo-Stomp could be quite better. I already have a Peterson V-Sam so I was using information I learned from that manual to program this unit. I believe Harold answered most of your questions.

It's my understanding that all the Peterson tuners "stretch" the tuning from one octave to the next as a piano does. A C note in the 2nd octave in higher than in the 1st octave, an so on. I'm not sure of the reason for the "E" designation to be stretched, other than the unit is designed for a 6 string guitar.

Long story short, my guitar sounds in tune to me.

------------------
Randy
http://hometown.aol.com/pulltightb/home.html

Jeff Agnew
Member

From: Dallas, TX

posted 17 August 2004 08:20 AM     profile     
With no offense meant to Harold's excellent reply, I'll take a stab at using simpler language to answer Jim's questions.

quote:
Most of the time there are just 3 lines of black/white bars rolling around, but sometimes a 4th appears on the left

More bars display when tuning higher notes. Don't worry about why

quote:
I presume if the bars are generally rolling up, you need to flatten the string and vice versa, right? And you tune until ALL THREE bars have stablized, right?

The display scrolls up if the string is sharp and scrolls down if the string is flat. Tune in the opposite direction to stop the scrolling. Just like the needle on a conventional tuner. You may not be able to stop motion on all the bars. Just stop the one on the left (moving the fastest).

quote:
While tuning a string, there's a little subscript number (1, 2, 3, or 4) next to the letter name of the note. What's that mean?

It indicates in which octave the note falls, based on its relation to middle "C". C1 is middle C on a piano. C2 is one octave higher.

quote:
Also while tuning a string, I'll suddenly see the bars go away for a moment, revealing either "##" or "bb".

The strobe tuner can detect any note within 50 cents of a whole number frequency (such as 440 +/- 50 cents). If the string you're tuning lies between, say, 440 +50 cents and 441, the tuner displays "##". You're too sharp for the tuner to call it 440, and too flat for 441.

quote:
It doesn't look like you can tune two strings of the same pitch, but different octaves, by a different amount of offset.

Correct.

quote:
Why is none of this in the freakin' manual??

Because no one reads manuals.
Jim Cohen
Member

From: Philadelphia, PA

posted 17 August 2004 08:37 AM     profile     
Thanks, guys. You're the bestest.
jc
William Steward
Member

From: Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

posted 17 May 2005 06:04 PM     profile     
Randy - thanks for posting your settings since I have been experimenting with tunings and have stuck with your E9 choices. In particular they seem to correct a rather unsatisfying sound of my AF posion using other tunings. Since I am also the piano player I don't have to offset evrything up to 442.5 since I haven't mastered playing steel and piano at the same time. Would you mind also sharing the offsets you use on your pedals / knee levers? I have extrapolated from the Jeff Newman settings which sound OK but am curious what you decided on. Love your 'A Few of My Favourite Things' CD by the way.
Randy Beavers
Member

From: Lebanon,TN 37090

posted 18 May 2005 04:56 AM     profile     
Hello William. I still havn't made a chart to tune my pedals by. I will sometime in the near future. Some of the settings I was using were starting to bother me. Maybe from different voicings I'm experimenting with, or just voices in my head?
Anyway, I was starting to do more touch up with my open tuning and I decided to write them down when I was happy with it. Here's what I came up with.

F#4 +07
D#4 -10
G#4 -08
E4 +03 (high)
B3 +04
G#3 -08
F#3 +07
E3 +01
D3 -01
B2 +04

You'll notice that all of these are the whole number and don't have a decimal. These are close enough I can tune my guitar before going on stage, and not have to do any touch up. I've lost the manual for my Strobo-Stomp so I had to "wing it" when I reprogramed it. I got the settings first from my V-Sam.

Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 18 May 2005 05:37 AM     profile     
For what it's worth, here is my tuning for my Franklin D-10, that I have programmed into my VS-II. It's is based on the root of the tuning at zero (although the E's on the E9th neck are tuned +2 cents to compensate for some cabinet drop). The tuning is a derivitive of the original Jeff Newman tuning chart (referenced to Zero).

Each guitar may have to be tuned slightly different for the guitar to be in tune with "itself". There a couple of notes that can't be programmed into the tuner. The E9th 4th string F# has to be programmed manually with the tuner as there is only one F# that can be programmed into the memory and I used my "open" F#'s for that. The Bass C (10th string)on the C6th neck is the same way, it has to be tuned manually with the tuner rather than the programmed mode.

E9th
1....F#[-2]...G#[-14]
2....Eb[-14]...D[-4]...C#[-14]…E[+2]
3....G#[-14]...A[-.2]
4....E[+2]...F[-28]...F#[-12]...Eb[-8]
5....B[-2]...C#[-14]...C[-4]...Bb[-4]
6....G#[-14]...A[-2]...G[-2]...F#[-2]
7....F#[-2]...G[-2]
8....E[+2]...F[-28]...Eb[-8]
9....D[-2]...C#[-14]
10..B[-2]...C#[-14]

C6th
1....G[-2]...G#[-22]
2....E[-14]...F[-.2]...Eb[-4]
3....C[0]...D[-4]...B[-8]
4....A[-16]...B[-20]
5....G[-2]...F#[-24]
6....E[-14]...Eb[0]
7....C[0]....C#[-28]
8....A[-16]...B[-20]
9....F[-2]...F#[-24]...E[-14]
10..C[-8]...D[-24]...A[-28]

William Steward
Member

From: Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

posted 21 May 2005 08:54 AM     profile     
Thanks Randy and Jack....more grist for the mill. I will test drive these settings for fun and also try with an out-of-tune too-loud band to see what happens. This is pretty interesting stuff and it probably varies from instrument to instrument depending on the scale, cabinet drop, etc etc etc. but wonderful to have a tool like the StroboStomp. I may just try a straight (Buddy Emmons) harmonic tuning and see what values my own ears come up with and compare. It was also interesting to read Paul Franklin's comments on this in another thread. At my level of playing, every little bit of advice helps!

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