|
Author
|
Topic: Presenting "The Jagwire String"
|
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 11:28 AM
profile
I have to say; as there are more and more 24" scale pedal steels being built and of course the classic Sho-bud and Classic MSA that were always 24" scale; I am sooooo completely satisfied with the Jagwire string and the perfect gauged set for that 24" scale; that I have decided on.
My Gauges from Jagwire
String tension and balance throughout is very important to me in bar pressure and equal tone separation between all strings.
The .013p on the 1st string makes that end of the bar more stable in pressure and makes for a quicker/easier throw in it's raise. The .038w on the bottom does the same for that stability on the back end of the bar; and the sound is more full; as opposed to a .036w; as with the proper tension; will give the shorter scale note, more sustain and a fuller sound.
The lasting tone and stability of the Jaqwire string is the most intriguing thing to me; as I play so many gigs every week; and stay constantly impressed with the stability and sound from this string; than any other string I've used.
Thank you Danny and Jagwire strings for a great relationship between product and player.
Ricky[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 09 February 2006 at 11:30 AM.] |
b0b
Sysop From: Cloverdale, California, USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 11:44 AM
profile
http://pedalsteelmusic.com/strings.html#rd  ------------------
 Bobby Lee
-b0b- quasar@b0b.com
System Administrator
My Blog |
Howard Tate
Member From: Leesville, Louisiana, USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 11:48 AM
profile
Ricky, I like the way you sound, are your strings steel or nickel? I hope to make it to Houston soon to hear you with Miss Leslie.------------------
So Many Strings, So Few Fingers |
Jon Light
Member From: Brooklyn, NY
|
posted 09 February 2006 12:15 PM
profile
Hey look, ma, it's that guy from myspace!That's real close to the gauges I'm using now. Some I have evolved toward on my own and the .018 and .038 I have recently gone to after studying on things such as your choices. I know that you have put a bunch of work and play into the study of that 24" neck, same as my Carter, so it seemed like a good bet to follow your lead. I picked up some loose Jags and a U-12 set (with some wrong gauges for my setup) for free recently from someone getting out of the steel game and will soon try them out. |
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 12:54 PM
profile
b0b; I'm so sorry, I could'a swore I put the link to the forum catalog in there...You'da Man.
Howard; I use the Jagwire "Nickle" and love it. Lloyd Green uses the Jagwire Stainless and he sounds wonderful; and I can't convince him to do nickel so I quit trying..ha....>but he does like my motivation..ha. 
Jon; soooooooooo good to hear man....Thanks for intrusting me; as yes> my Gosh> I've gone through every gauge trial and error to finally come up with this and it IS my agenda..
Ricky[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 09 February 2006 at 12:55 PM.] |
Andy Sandoval
Member From: Bakersfield, California, USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 03:06 PM
profile
Hey Ricky, I'm using your strings on my Carter D-10 and they sound great but I had a real hard time with the wound 6th and had to use a plain instead untill I figure out what I need to do to get it to work right. BTW are you still playin with Dale Watson? and if so when are you boys comin to Bakersfield? |
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 04:24 PM
profile
Hi Andy; well I dropped out of the Dale Watson band almost 3 years ago...ah...ha...>and Dale Watson actually dropped out for a while himself, at the first of this year. After playing around town here in Austin for the last few years with various artist and keeping a good session load; I now joined my dream band> www.missleslie.com and we play Classic Country from the 60's.
As for the wound 6th...yes if you lower it a whole tone from it being raised from G# to A; it is a tuff throw to make and using a plain is suggested. John F. or Bud C; might have a suggestion on how to get the Carter finger to move that distance; if you ask them. Otherwise; just lowering it from G# to F# without the split is certainly doable with the wound.
If you can explain more on what you mean>"until I figure out what I need to do to get it to work right"; maybe I can help further.
Here's another little tip for anyone out there reading this....>if you cut your strings to length from two tuning keys back; try 3 tuning keys back on all plain strings. Or give yourself 3 wraps on the inside of the string hole on the tuning post and at least 5 wraps up the tuning post; and you will be stabilizing that end of the string more and now you will be putting less tension on the top of the finger to pull to pitch. You will notice the string will raise a smidge quicker and the tone and stability of the string will last much longer.
Have fun.
Ricky[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 09 February 2006 at 04:26 PM.] |
Bob Knight
Member From: Bowling Green KY
|
posted 09 February 2006 05:02 PM
profile
 |
Andy Sandoval
Member From: Bakersfield, California, USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 05:20 PM
profile
Ricky, what I meant when I said ("had to use a plain instead untill I figure out what I need to do to get it to work right.")was that when I was tryin to adjust that string so it would pull up to an A it wouldn't return to the proper pitch and so I put the plain back on. I guess I need to figure out how to adjust the throw or length of that rod? |
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 06:20 PM
profile
Yes Andy; most likely you put the wound string on, without making any rod hole movements.
Therefore; you tried to tune the nylon tuner to go up to A when the pedal was pushed; and when you let off the pedal; the G# note was now sharp, because the rod was now into the open finger rest position.
You need a little more distance for the wound string; so the rod needs to pull sooner with the pedal stopping at the same place it is at with the 3rd string.
So you could either move the rod a hole or two away from the cross bar on the rod puller(bell crank) underneath; or move the rod a raise hole closer to the axle(top of the guitar) on the finger at the end plate> which ever is easier for you to do.
With any and all; string gauge changes or pull changes....you must set/re-set the rods for the proper pull and stops for the proper distance.
Ricky
[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 09 February 2006 at 06:21 PM.] |
Michael Barone
Member From: Downingtown, Pennsylvania, USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 06:55 PM
profile
Ricky, I'm using Jagwires for a year now, broke the 3rd string only twice during the year (.0115). I play about 9 hours/week. I change strings once a month. I just wanted to ask: How long, in general, does your 3rd string last, (.012)? (I guess it also depends on the characteristics of the guitar). I was going to try a .012 but I'm a little afraid of the impact when it breaks, and don't want to risk a breakage during a performance. The .0115 sounds better than .011, but I still need more presence there. Thanks again for all of your help on many other issues. ------------------
Mike Barone
Sho-Bud Pro-1, Nashville 112
Assorted Guitars & Keyboards
|
Andy Sandoval
Member From: Bakersfield, California, USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 08:03 PM
profile
Thanks Ricky, I'd like to try a wound 6th next time I change strings and see if I can do those adjustments you described. |
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 09 February 2006 08:31 PM
profile
Cool Andy.
Michael; I have no idea how long my .012p 3rd string would last, because I usually change it after my stupid "ACID" hands have cruded up me strings. So playing almost every night for 3 to 4 hour gigs and usually a session or two in there somewhere; I change all my strings once a week(but that is considerably longer than any other string brand I've put my hands on>used to be every couple days...ha.).
When/if your 3rd string breaks; it doesn't matter if it's a .011.5 or .012, you won't notice any increase in impact...ha...and it takes less tension/travel to pull the .012 than a lesser gauge string; so it will last longer and yes you will get more tone/sustain/volume out of it.
Make sure to give yourself at least 7 wraps on that 3rd string; and you will find even more longevity out of it.
You play a 24" scale Sho-bud Pro I Michael> a .012p on the 3rd string is even less tension than a .011 on a 24 1/4" scale Emmons or like guitar> I would be more afraid of putting a .011 on a Emmons than a .012 on a Sho-bud.....ha.....
Also; yes the pulling action is certainly different in all models of pedal steels...and where those pivot points are and how much the rods flex or not and how freely everything in the pulling chain moves; is a big calculation in the amount of tension it takes to pull strings, from guitar to guitar.
Ricky |
Ken Byng
Member From: Southampton, England
|
posted 10 February 2006 04:47 AM
profile
Jagwires are just great - but I much prefer the stainless. I am very lucky in as much that I don't have the sweaty hand syndrome. My .011's last much longer than other makes I have tried and the stainless wounds hold their tone and sustain for longer too. |
Erv Niehaus
Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
|
posted 10 February 2006 07:27 AM
profile
Ricky,
I see we have more than a love for Fulawka's in common. Your string gauges are almost identical to my preferences including the choice of nickel over stainless. The only difference is the 6th string. I still employ a plain .022 for that string. I have a full tone lower on that string and it is a hard move with a wound.
Erv[This message was edited by Erv Niehaus on 10 February 2006 at 07:29 AM.] |
Jan Jonsson
Member From: Gothenburg, Sweden
|
posted 10 February 2006 07:44 AM
profile
Yep, that's a well-dimensioned set of E9 strings all right. It also happens be the gauges I use ... Erv: since you now have a Fulawka, a wound 6th string can be lowered a full step (and more). -- Jan ------------------
Janjo's home page
Gear: Sho-Bud Pro II Custom 8+6, Fulawka D-10 8+8, Fender Deluxe 8, Marrs/Fluger Cat-Can, Fender CS Nocaster |
Tracy Sheehan
Member From: Fort Worth, Texas, USA
|
posted 10 February 2006 08:21 AM
profile
Hope i haven't posted this before.
Back in the 50's when i played the fender 1000 i got tired of the 3rd string breakage so tuned down to E flat on the 9th tuning.
It cut (no pun intended) down on the string breakage a little.I put on heavier gauge strings and did like the tone of them much better.
So i tuned on down to a D9th and went to even heavier gauge strings and could then get the C6th and country sound on the one neck.
When knee pedals came out by lowering the 4th and 8th i had an A6th tuning.I never looked back.
After getting a steel that had the nut rollers ZB as i recall i could play a year or longer on the road with out breaking a string,and that was six nights a week.Back in those days strings were not easy to find while on the road.
Now this is only my opinion,but i still often wonder why steel players think they have to tune to E 9th.
The only string i did not go heavy was the 3rd.
For me,the D9th puts the tuning better for playing the exact guitar licks in D like Buckaroo,etc and rock songs in the open A.
Years ago i worked in many bands with no lead guitar and had to do the guitar parts.Usually had a piano player,(not a keyboard) and a sax or trumpet player when one could be found that could play any style of music in any key.
And i am aware it was much different back then.The bands might play a 2 chord country song,then play a big band,pop,jazz,etc.
I miss those great days.Tracy |
Michael Barone
Member From: Downingtown, Pennsylvania, USA
|
posted 10 February 2006 08:46 AM
profile
Ricky, thanks for your reply and your thorough explanation. I will now try a .012 for the 3rd string, Jagwire, of course.I'm expecting to retune the "B" pedal linkage, since I imagine it will have a little less travel than a .0115. Will try it this weekend. Mike |
Franklin
Member From:
|
posted 10 February 2006 09:14 AM
profile
Ricky, Your string guages will work fine on all guitar brands because the tone derived from using a heavier or lighter gauge for balance doesn't matter between the varying scale lengths of 24" and 24 & 1/4". The sustain of the guitar itself is helped by a longer scale length, Which is why the Emmons and most modern steels that use the 24 & 1/4" vs the Bud and MSA's 24" are known to have more sustain. The shorter scales were believed to be more accurate for tuning over the 24 1/4" which is a debate unto itself which is better. There is a give and take issue here. I used 012's on the 3rd string and 038's on both my Bud and Emmons back in the 70's. I also used 018's and would often switch between 020, 021, and 022 plain guages for the 6th string on both scale lengths. I presently use 012's, 018's and 020's on my dad's guitar which is also a 24 & 1/4" scale. The reason I like heavier gauges is because they are stretched tighter at pitch. They have a less shrill edge to the note making it a more solid and balanced tone all the way across. My gauges are 013, 015, 012, 015, 018, 020, 026w, 030w, 034w, and 038w. Go ahead and try the 012 0n your Emmons. I found the 012's lasted longer than 011's did on my old PP. Paul
[This message was edited by Franklin on 10 February 2006 at 09:23 AM.] [This message was edited by Franklin on 10 February 2006 at 09:26 AM.]
|
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 10 February 2006 09:29 AM
profile
Thanks Paul; and I certainly agree these gauges will work fine on all scales. I mainly don't like anything lighter for that 24" scale is my main reason for these gauges.
I too like a tight string at pitch and believe that is the important factor of accuracy for tuning and not particularly wheather it's a 24" or 24 1/4" or 24 1/2"> so I guess I'm on your side on the debate...ha...
Ricky |
Jon Light
Member From: Brooklyn, NY
|
posted 10 February 2006 12:23 PM
profile
Michael--Yes, you will need to tweak your B pedal. Not a whole lot. A 12 needs a bit shorter pull to get up to pitch. |
Jimmie Martin
Member From: Ohio, USA
|
posted 10 February 2006 01:42 PM
profile
i'm no one important but i have tried your strings and i like them. i like the nickel strings instead of stainless. my 2 cents. |
Michael Barone
Member From: Downingtown, Pennsylvania, USA
|
posted 11 February 2006 11:33 AM
profile
The tone improvement using a .012 vs. a .0115 is amazing. Also, a nice balanced chord on 3-4-5 string group. I used to compensate by picking the 3rd string harder, but now I don't have to think about it. I hope it lasts.I tried other brands for .012 in the past, they wouldn't last an hour of pedal mashing. Jagwire is the way to go. Jon, you were right. I think I may have shortened the B pedal travel by two revolutions of the stop screw. A short distance, but it seems a little easier rocking now also. A win-win situation. Mike |
Ernie Pollock
Member From: Mt Savage, Md USA
|
posted 11 February 2006 01:04 PM
profile
that .012 for the 3rd was being used by Jeff Newman for a long time, I have also used that at his urging, its much better than the .011 or .0115. Its sure nothing newErnie ------------------
|
Billy T. Johnson
Member From: Statesboro, Georgia, USA
|
posted 11 February 2006 02:35 PM
profile
anyone uisng Jawires on a Derby?.012 in place of .011? .0115? thanks, GrievousAngel
------------------
William Johnson (Billy)
Grievous Angel Productions
Statesboro, GA. 30461 USA
http://www.grievousangelpro.com Derby DB10 E9
Custom BillieTele Telecaster
Peavey NV400
Peavey TubeFex
Goodrich 7A  Please 'Mouse' to see larger photo. http://usera.imagecave.com/GreivousAngelPro/derbyfront.JPG Summer 1969 http://usera.imagecave.com/GreivousAngelPro/Billy1969.JPG |
The Steel Guitar Forum
