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Author
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Topic: hex nut question
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Ken Metcalf
Member From: San Antonio, Texas, USA
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posted 02 May 2006 08:47 AM
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Some of my hex nuts seemed to be tight and I was advised to clean and lube them. So I did and used 3-1 oil. But they still seemed tight.
At the gig I had a problem, as I was tuning the hex nut popped off and the rod hit the floor. I swiped one off my C Neck and was OK. Then when I got home and checked closer (Glasses and Flashlight). I saw little pieces of white plastic on and in the threads. I cleaned the threads re-oiled however when I replaced it, the hex nut popped off Striped, apparently.
My friend gave me a bag of hex nuts and they were of varying sizes, Too Big and To Small. I will go to the maker next week and get it fixed, but what is the deal with nut sizes as I did not see diff. sizes listed on the hex nuts for sale.Ken Metcalf
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Ray Minich
Member From: Limestone, New York, USA
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posted 02 May 2006 08:55 AM
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The nuts gotta be sized to the pull rods. George L has two different sizes (ID holes) that I know of... They've got 'em for 1/8" dia. rod and another series for 3/32 rod. Using the 1/8th's on 3/32nd rod could cause pull off and strip out the center like it sounds you did 'cause of the white plastic flakes you mentioned.[This message was edited by Ray Minich on 02 May 2006 at 09:00 AM.] |
John Groover McDuffie
Member From: California, USA
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posted 02 May 2006 09:53 AM
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Interesting question, as I have a Sho-Bud with Super-Pro mechanism, and the pull rods are 7/64". Some of my tuning nuts are very tight and some are very loose. Anyone else with pull rods this size? Which size nuts do you use? |
Jack Stoner
Sysop From: Inverness, Florida
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posted 02 May 2006 10:40 AM
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They need to be tight, so they don't move when you are using the steel. Most do not have threads and the threads are "cut" as it is screwed on the pull rod. If they work easy they are either too big or are worn out and need to be replaced. And don't oil them!You need the correct inside diameter and correct length. |
Erv Niehaus
Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
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posted 02 May 2006 01:04 PM
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If the nuts turn real hard, this is what I've done. Run a small drill bit down into the nut. The drill bit should be just a little smaller than the rod you are trying to thread in the nut.
There are no threads in the nuts, the threads on the pull rods cut the thread. |
Colby Tipton
Member From: Texas, USA
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posted 02 May 2006 02:20 PM
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Jack Stoner is correct on both of the comments he made about the nylon tuning nuts. My 2 cents worth, If they are tight to the point of not tunrning, put more threads on the rods, when the threads run out the nylon nut has nothing to do but break(It starts curling). They have to stay tight to a certain point, are you will never ever be able to stay in tune. Edited. I forgot to say you can cut the nylon nuts so they don't bottom out (curl) and you can get some more adjustment. The rods stretch, the crank holes wear, hooks on rods wear and you have to replace things as they craiter in over time. [This message was edited by Colby Tipton on 02 May 2006 at 03:02 PM.] |
Ken Metcalf
Member From: San Antonio, Texas, USA
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posted 03 May 2006 08:11 AM
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Thanks
I see a couple of workable and good ideas.
My buddy came over and cranked it on for me and I guess some are tigher than others.
Even tho this seems wierd to me that all same sized rod and same size nuts would be different. But I knew the job was dangerous when I took it.
thanks a bunch!!!
Ken Metcalf D-10 Carson Wells |
Gareth Carthew
Member From: West Sussex, UK
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posted 03 May 2006 09:23 AM
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Also.
If you ever remove the nylon tuners completely; either to oil, clean, accidently etc... a tip for when you put them back on - start by gently turning them the wrong way. Do this with your fingers, you'll be able to feel the tuner "drop" onto the threads of the rod. Then you can do them up, this will prevent cross threading (which is bad)  |
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