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  Sho-Bud changer lowering problems

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Author Topic:   Sho-Bud changer lowering problems
John Groover McDuffie
Member

From: California, USA

posted 06 August 2006 07:34 PM     profile     
1- On my s-12 3raise-2lower guitar, I was setting it up to lower my 3 G#'s (stings 3, 6, and 11) to G, and with the pull rod in the lower bar hole closer to the axle I noticed that the raise bar would start moving before the note got down to G. I tried the other hole in the lower bar and it seems to work better, but I'm wondering what could be causing this. I know to check for binding and interference in the linkage, but is there anything about the changer itself that could cause this.

2- Regarding the springs: I believe the springs up close to the body are raise helper springs and the ones at the bottom (with guitar right side up) are lower return springs. If I don't have the nomenclature right, please fill me in.

Anyhow, the lever I am doing this with is kind of stiff to operate. (Takes a lot of force to move it). What should I know about the springs attached to the changer and how to set them up. The springs are not adjustable, maybe I should retrofit them?
Also do the prings play a part in the problem desribed in part 1 above?

Thanks

[This message was edited by John Groover McDuffie on 06 August 2006 at 08:43 PM.]

Clyde Lane
Member

From: Glasgow, Kentucky, USA

posted 06 August 2006 08:28 PM     profile     
Take the raise helper springs off( the ones close to the body). Warning: Those knee lever brackets usually will not take alot of force before they break.
Clyde Lane
Earnest Bovine
Member

From: Los Angeles CA USA

posted 06 August 2006 09:21 PM     profile     
Absolutely, adjustable return springs will help with any pedal/lever that lowers the pitch. The longer the spring, the better.
It will make the lower easier, and might solve the problem of raising when you are trying to lower. That is always a risk on that high G# lower.

I'm retrofitting 2 of my steels now, about to shop for springs, cut the hook off one end, and stick a nut inside each one.

richard burton
Member

From: Britain

posted 07 August 2006 12:51 AM     profile     
I've seen some steels where the hole in the changer finger had to be filed to make it oval (top to bottom, not side to side) to allow sufficient rod clearance during lowering.
Ricky Davis
Moderator

From: Spring, Texas USA

posted 07 August 2006 05:39 AM     profile     
Yes there is CERTAINLY a problem with those later fingers; as the lower arm of the finger; pushes that top piece and that top piece is that pot metal....it creates a groove in that top piece; therefor hindering the movement and stability of the raise arm. You can tell if this is happening; if when you push the lower arm; then the raise arm moves at some point??
You either have to take the finger out and bend that bent/fulcrom piece of the top of the lower arm, in some; so it hits or gets out of the grooved part that it made in that top piece. Or replace it and all fingers with John Coop's Superfinger exact replacement finger; as he has a ball-bearing in there so it isn't a metal piece pushing/creating a groove in the top piece and makes for a smoother more secure action.
If all the other ideas mentioned above from the other fellas(which are all great troubleshooters)don't work; then this is what has to happen.
This is what Coop's Suger Finger looks like>

You can see the roller ball-bearing at the top of the lower arm; which pushes the top piece. Your finger has a metal bent piece that pushes and wears a groove and that's when all he!! breaks loose.
Ricky
Jan Jonsson
Member

From: Gothenburg, Sweden

posted 07 August 2006 06:12 AM     profile     
Here are some pictures illustrating what Ricky just mentioned. On my Sho-Bud Pro II Custom, a couple of fingers on the E9 neck had such grooves (and the associated problems). The first picture shows a real nasty groove while the second picture shows how the pivot of the whole mechanism is affected by the groove.


I later switched all fingers on the E9 neck to the super fingers by John Coop (with great results).

-- Jan

------------------
Janjo's home page
Gear: Fulawka D-10 8+8, Fender Deluxe 8, Alkire E-Harp, Marrs/Fluger Cat-Can, Fender CS Nocaster

[This message was edited by Jan Jonsson on 07 August 2006 at 06:15 AM.]

Ricky Davis
Moderator

From: Spring, Texas USA

posted 07 August 2006 07:57 AM     profile     
That's IT Jan; thanks for showing those. I didn't have any pictures of them and OF COURSE you can't see that mess with the fingers in there. But guys spend all their time trying this with this spring and that pull and re-rodding and bla freakin' bla...and if they will just look at what you just showed them.....I'm sure it will turn their stomach....and folks> this is EXACTLY what your fingers look like in you sho-bud fingers if you have more than a double raise/single lower shobud finger.
All single/single and double/single shobud fingers DO NOT have this problem; but all the rest Do and you will have instablilities and problems with your Sho-bud; until it's fixed.
Ricky

All times are Pacific (US)

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