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  Wet-Sanding the Changer Fingers (Page 2)

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This topic was originally posted in this forum: Pedal Steel
Author Topic:   Wet-Sanding the Changer Fingers
Bob Kagy
Member

Posts: 872
From: Lafayette, CO USA
Registered: AUG 98

posted 19 December 1999 02:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bob Kagy     
I wonder how many of you wet sand the changer fingers to keep the strings from wearing grooves in the aluminum?

Pro & cons on this?

I've done this on the E9th high G# for years to keep breakage to a minumum with satisfactory results, but I understand the grooves, if left to grow deeper, begin to affect tone adversely.

Comments, experience?

Thanks, Bob

Keith Hilton
Member

Posts: 1649
From: 248 Laurel Road Ozark, Missouri 65721
Registered: MAY 99

posted 19 December 1999 02:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Keith Hilton     
Bob I use 400 grit emory.

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Bobby B
unregistered

Posts: 1649
From: 248 Laurel Road Ozark, Missouri 65721
Registered: MAY 99

posted 19 December 1999 05:22 PM           
Just remember that over sanding can affect the radius or even create a flat spot and these can cause other problems.
BB

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Jack Stoner
Sysop

Posts: 8119
From: Inverness, Florida
Registered: DEC 99

posted 20 December 1999 03:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jack Stoner     
I've wet sanded once or twice, when I've had a string breakage problem. I used 600 grit emory cloth. After wet sanding, I go back over with Simichrome polish.

I had problems with the B string (5) breaking one time and that fixed it, even though the apparent burr could not be seen or felt.

I have a friend with an Excel that was having trouble breaking G# (3) (wouldn't even come up to pitch or the first time he hit the pedal it was gone) and there was nothing we could see - even with a magnifying glass - but once he sanded and polished it his breakage problems went away.

One caution to anyone that does this. Be careful and only sand a very small amount and make sure you keep the curve. If you get carried away you could sand a flat spot in the finger and ruin it.

BUDDY BARROWCLIFF
Member

Posts: 45
From: Sayre,Pa
Registered:

posted 20 December 1999 05:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BUDDY BARROWCLIFF     
I have a shobud superpro about 20 yrs old and have done this routine as well. Also have changed fingers around with others that have less wear. Also have pulled back neck off and now have all those to use for relacement.
But what I haven't seen from any of you guys on this subject is what brand guitars are we talking about. Is this a problem with all and what are the metals being used for the fingers. Are they al the same???? Does each manufacture their own or are there shops that do this.
I have found that if I get down to far on mine it looks like brass underneath. Can anybody answer these questions about this.

Just another Buddy

Bob Kagy
Member

Posts: 872
From: Lafayette, CO USA
Registered: AUG 98

posted 21 December 1999 11:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bob Kagy     
Thanks to all who replied or had comments.

Buddy, I have experience limited to only 2 brands - ShoBud (a Pro II D10) & now a new Carter.

Both guitars have aluminum changer fingers. I wetsanded the ShoBud's high G# changer finger on the E9th neck for a number of years - I didn't wear it down to anything like a different colored metal. I began to notice I was sanding a different shape onto the finger radius as well as a swale-like depression along the string axis. This concerned me, but at my level had no bad effects.

I hesitate to start on the Carter, it being new and shiny, etc., but I guess I'll have to bite the bullet - there were some significant string imprints both from the non-wound and wound strings as I changed strings the first couple of times.

The Carter's great in every way, but I'm already beginning to look down the road and wonder when I'll have to change fingers. BTW, it's my understanding that this goes across all PSG brand names, unless there are some with harder metal on the fingers that I'm unaware of.

Seasons Greetings, Bob

Jack Stoner
Sysop

Posts: 8119
From: Inverness, Florida
Registered: DEC 99

posted 21 December 1999 03:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jack Stoner     
I don't think sanding the fingers should be a "regular" maintenance item. My D-10 Franklin is 17 years old and I've done it to two fingers in that period, once on the E9th 3rd string and once on the E9th 5th string.

There are some minor marks in the fingers but nothing that would require sanding. I also use George L's strings with are Stainless Steel wound strings, and are supposed to be harder on the changer fingers but the minor marks or grooves in the aluminum fingers are not worth considering.

I'm pretty finicky and everything has to be so-so and the very minor marks have no affect on the tuning or playability.

On this issue, I have to go with "if it ain't broke don't fix it".


[This message was edited by Jack Stoner on 12-21-99]



George Webb
Member

Posts: 16
From: Toronto,Ontario,Canada
Registered: FEB 99

posted 23 December 1999 09:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for George Webb     
I bought a used 79 Emmons P/P and the 4th string had a groove in the finger that made the string sound raspy.
I actually filed the finger (by eye and perfectly round of course) then polished it.
The sound came back and I haven't had any further problem with it in more than 12 years.
George


Donny Hinson
Member

Posts: 9192
From: Balto., Md. U.S.A.
Registered: FEB 99

posted 27 December 1999 07:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Donny Hinson     
Jack is right...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. These grooves on the changer fingers can cause two problems, buzzing, and string breakage. If it's not buzzing, and you're not breaking strings, don't worry about it!

Also keep in mind that this is only a problem on the smaller strings. On the larger strings (anything over .036") you probably won't notice a problem no matter how bad the grooves are.

Bob Mainwaring
Member

Posts: 918
From: Qualicum Beach Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Registered: NOV 99

posted 27 December 1999 08:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bob Mainwaring     
No one has mentioned it, but my old Z.B. it seems have hardened Stainless Steel radious pieces that fit tightly on the end of the square section finger, looking much like a horseshoe shape.
In all the years I`ve had it no groove have appeared on any of the fingers, unlike the MSA it replaced which had to have a regular going over with a piece of emery cloth then polished with a small buffing wheel fixed in a Dremel tool.
A friend of mine who has an old ShoBud has looked at the Z.B. and is contemplating doing the neccesary work to "upgrade" his steel a-la Z.B. hardened caps.
Has anyone else done this?

Bob Mainwaring Z.B.

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Jim Smith
Member

Posts: 6399
From: Plano, TX, USA
Registered:

posted 27 December 1999 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jim Smith     
Dekley used chrome plated changer fingers. I've played the same guitar for twenty years and still don't have any hint of a groove. Rarely break a string either.


Bob Kagy
Member

Posts: 872
From: Lafayette, CO USA
Registered: AUG 98

posted 28 December 1999 11:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bob Kagy     
Interesting comments about the ZB & Dekley. I'm not familiar with the Dekley's tone, but the ZB had a lot of tone fans, me included.

Any further comments about the effect of chromed or stainless steel changer fingers vs aluminum on tone? If the harder stuff was good for both wear and tone, why wouldn't more builders go to it?

Thanks, Bob

Mike Fried
Member

Posts: 285
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered:

posted 28 December 1999 04:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike Fried     
Buddy, the Super Pro's changer fingers are made of cast zinc that is chrome plated. The exposed copper is the underplating. I don't recommend sanding these fingers unless there is a pronounced burr or groove that is causing a problem.


Larry R
Member

Posts: 553
From: Navasota, Tx.
Registered: SEP 99

posted 30 December 1999 06:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Larry R     
Mullen puts a superhard annealing metal on his changers. I have forgot what he called it but it works. I play mine everynight for 2-3 hrs for 2 weeks before the high G# goes Ka-Pow.


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