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first pedal is hard to puch down (Page 2)
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The Steel Guitar Forum
Pedal Steel Archive
first pedal is hard to puch down (Page 2)
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| This topic is 2 pages long: 1 2 This topic was originally posted in this forum: Pedal Steel |
| Author | Topic: first pedal is hard to puch down |
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Ziggie Member Posts: 101 |
posted 01 February 2001 10:10 AM
Anyone have any idea what would cause my first pedal to push down so hard? I don't have much experience with the mechanism underneath. Thanks, Ziggie [This message was edited by Ziggie on 02 February 2001 at 11:34 AM.] |
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Bob Brocius Member Posts: 224 |
posted 01 February 2001 12:41 PM
What does it do? What strings are pulled? |
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Earnest Bovine Member Posts: 4687 |
posted 01 February 2001 01:29 PM
Are the other pedals easier? |
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Moon in Alaska Member Posts: 1155 |
posted 01 February 2001 04:25 PM
Ziggie, you need to tell us what kind of steel and exactly what that pedals does. All the modern guitars have several options of the leverage used. You can have a short pull which is harder to push, or a longer soft pull. ------------------ |
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Tim Rowley Member Posts: 957 |
posted 01 February 2001 11:03 PM
Hi Ziggie! Welcome aboard. For the sake of speed (it's gettin' late) I'm gonna assume you are talking E9th neck here and your first pedal raises strings 5 and 10 a full tone. I'm also gonna assume that you have an all-pull guitar. First, make sure nothing is broken or binding on your guitar. Next, compare the length of stroke of your first ("A") pedal to the stroke of your second ("B") pedal. If the stroke of the first pedal is significantly shorter than that of the second pedal, chances are that the person who last worked on the guitar has set up such a short leverage on the first pedal that it works hard. Flip the guitar over, back off the stop screw on the first pedal to get a little more stroke, and move your pull rods to a lower hole on the bellcranks of that cross-shaft. If the rods are already quite low on the bellcranks, spin the plastic adjuster nuts off those two rods at the changer endplate, pull the rods and reinsert them in the next hole down in the changer finger, and reinstall the rods and adjuster nuts. Either of these two procedures will give you more pedal stroke and easier action. You only live 25 miles from me. If you run into trouble (or if you have a push-pull Emmons) give me a ring at 879-3387 and I'll just have you bring the guitar over to my house. We'll get it working right or at least figure out what's the matter with it. Are you acquainted with Danny Hullihen at Harrison Music? If not, you should be! He runs a first-class music store that specializes in steel guitar sales and service, and is an excellent pedal steel mechanic as well (and so is his son Blue). Danny also owns the Jagwire String Co. I use Jagwire strings exclusively, they are wound by a small independent company and they are GREAT strings. Glad to see you on here. Gimme a shout sometime. Tim R. |
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Ziggie Member Posts: 101 |
posted 02 February 2001 07:15 AM
This guitar is a ShoBud ProIII. It's my B strings pedal (3rd pedal) pulling up to C#. Any ideas? Thanks so much for everyones help also. Ziggie |
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Vern Kendrick Member Posts: 442 |
posted 02 February 2001 08:43 AM
Puch harder! |
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Earnest Bovine Member Posts: 4687 |
posted 02 February 2001 01:09 PM
Here's something you can try without even turning the guitar over. On the right end of the guitar, look for the 2 tuning nuts that move when you push that pedal. Loosen one of them until the pedal no longer raises that string. Is the pedal still hard to push, now that it pulls only one B string up to C#? Now tighten that one back up until the pedal pulls the string up to C# again. Loosen the other nut and see if the pedal is still hard to push. |
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Tim Rowley Member Posts: 957 |
posted 05 February 2001 10:09 PM
This story has a happy ending. Ziggie's Pro III is fixed. We got after it at my house tonight. Nothing broken, just a matter of a couple of setup problems inherited from the previous owner. We corrected several wrong stroke lengths and leverage problems, a too-tight return spring on string 4, a couple "overtuned" pulls, a corroded and incorrectly adjusted mechanical half-stop on the second string lower to D/C#, and a missing spring on RKR. Adjusted it up right, couple drops of oil here and there, and it plays just fine as can be. A beautiful old black-lacquered Pro III, 8 + 4, with the original case, Music City Mfg. label on guitar and case. A lot of guitar without spending a lot of money, and Ziggie is a multi-talented musician who plays steel guitar very well! Tim R. |
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Ziggie Member Posts: 101 |
posted 06 February 2001 09:25 AM
My hats off to Tim Rowly! Thanks for all his help and also thanks for the nice words you posted about me Tim! If anyone needs some work done in our area I would highly recomend Tim. Job well done! I'm not too mechanically inclined so I tend to get lost underneath the steel. I would have (was) lost without Tims expertise. There is so much to learn and I want to thank everyone who has helped and posted there comments. Everyone has unique talents and that's what makes this world such a better place. Shareing our talents with each other. Thanks again Tim! |
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Ziggie Member Posts: 101 |
posted 09 February 2001 06:58 AM
Please close this out. I'm not sure how it's done. Thanks |
| This topic is 2 pages long: 1 2 All times are Pacific (US) | This is an ARCHIVED topic. You may not reply to it! |
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