|
Author
|
Topic: Help w/amp covering
|
Fred Murphy
Member From: Indianapolis, In. USA
|
posted 08 October 2001 04:18 PM
profile
I am in the process of building a separate cabinet for the NV 400 amp head, and I need to know what kind of glue to use, to glue the vinyl covering to the wood. Also, what is the process for installing it? I don't see any staples on the factory amps, so how do you hold everything in place while the glue is drying and you are wrapping it around the box. Also where to put the end joint, or do you overlap the end? I don't see an end joint on the Peavey amps. How do they make the seam invisible? Thanks for any help any one can give.
Fred[This message was edited by Fred Murphy on 08 October 2001 at 04:19 PM.] |
Bob Leaman
unregistered
|
posted 08 October 2001 06:10 PM
You might try contact cement. Be absolutely sure that you have the material exactly where you want it before you permit it to touch the cabinet. There is no removal without ruining the vinyl if you pull it off after it touches the wooden surface. Both surfaces, vinyl and cabinet must be coated with contact cement, the cement must dry, and then the two surfaces are placed together. There is no need to hold it. It sticks instantly. Make trial on some other surface with some other cheap material before you use expensive vinyl. Peavey does not eleiminate seams, they cover them with corner pieces. |
Ken Fox
Member From: Ray City, GA USA
|
posted 08 October 2001 06:24 PM
profile
There are some really good water based contact cements available these days, I used some to build back panels for an old Session 400, worked perfect, no odors, and water clean-up to boot. Check anywhere they sell adhesives for counter-tops (Home Depot, etc). |
chas smith
Member From: Encino, CA, USA
|
posted 09 October 2001 01:13 AM
profile
I've had good experiences with 3M high strength 90 |
Shaan Shirazi
Member From: Austin, TX, USA
|
posted 09 October 2001 06:53 AM
profile
There's a thing called "Cake Glue" that some custom amp makers use. They seem to feel it helps the tone of the cabinet. At least that's what this guy says:
www.armadilloampworks.com ------------------
The Pickin' Paniolo
|
John Hanusch
Member From: Georgetown, Tx USA
|
posted 09 October 2001 09:07 AM
profile
The 3M products are good, but pricey. (Old Chinese proverb: Buy the best & cry only once.)
In addition to that "High Strength -- 90", I've also had good results with their "76 -- High Tack Adhesive".
Contact cement might be o.k. if you can do everything perfect the first time, but...
Invisible joints?? One way is to overlap the two pieces & razor cut to make a butt joint. Dap with black vinyl paint to disguise pattern mismatch. [This message was edited by John Hanusch on 09 October 2001 at 09:17 AM.] |
Bill Terry
Member From: Bastrop, TX, USA
|
posted 09 October 2001 09:17 AM
profile
I would recommend the 3M 77 spray contact adhesive. You spray both the cabinet and the tolex just like contact cement, but if you get the tolex down a little off line or something you can pull it up and move it. Once it fully sets up in a few minutes it's permanent. I've recovered a bunch of amps with this stuff, it works great and there is some margin for error.There are a couple of ways to do the end joint. Peavey wraps the entire cabinet with one piece that butt joints, typically on the bottom. The ends are overlapped and stretched and then a single cut is made with a knife through the overlapped layers. You're left with a joint that is an exact match when the two ends are brought back together. Be sure the tolex is stretched when you make the cut and that the cut goes through both layers cleanly so they match up nicely. Fender amps, at least the older ones, are usually covered with several pieces of tolex. Typically a piece on each side, and separate pieces for top and bottom that are wrapped around and tucked. I've seen older fender amps where the tolex seam on the bottom was actually visibly stapled, to keep it from getting scraped loose I guess. I've used this technique on Peavey amps well and it works fine. I found the Fender covering technique to be a little easier on the first amps I did, the smaller pieces of Tolex are easier to manage. BT ------------------
Home Page |
Mike Brown
Member From: Meridian, Mississippi USA
|
posted 09 October 2001 09:51 AM
profile
We precut the Tolex material and adher this material to the cabinet surface via heated glue process. Air pockets are eliminated by hand smoothing the Tolex material as soon as the hot glue is applied.By the way, who in the world came up with the claim that the "the glue helps the tone of the amp!"? |
Fred Murphy
Member From: Indianapolis, In. USA
|
posted 09 October 2001 04:25 PM
profile
Thanks everyone for all the help. I'll see how I come out on it. It will be snakeskin looking covering and I will try to post a picture when it is done. |
Ken Fox
Member From: Ray City, GA USA
|
posted 10 October 2001 04:51 PM
profile
I have a friend in Portland, Or that uses the same method as Peavey. Fender used the same method (hot glue) on the older amps as well. The glue, I believe, is Hyde glue. It comes in crystal/solid form. Pat melts his in an old crock pot and applies with a brush! He did a 1958 Fender Pro recover job for me, looked just like factory. |
The Steel Guitar Forum
