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  Troubled Twin Reverb (Page 1)

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Author Topic:   Troubled Twin Reverb
Robert
Member

From: Champaign, IL

posted 31 October 2001 01:56 PM     profile     
Friends:
I was playing the Dual Professional through the '68 Twin Reverb today - everything sounded great for a couple of hours, then I had a slow decrease in volume, accompanied by a raspy sputter - then nothing but the sound that an electric razor makes. I turned it off and checked the guitar on another amp - it's not the guitar. Nothing like the sounds that a tube makes when they go, either. Too sudden for that, anyway. So what gives? A capacitor, maybe? Thanks in advance for any info. I'll probably get it into the shop quick, but good to hear from all of you, as well.

Rob Yale

Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 31 October 2001 02:47 PM     profile     
Could be the rectifier tube.
Rodney Shuffler
Member

From: Montgomery, Texas USA (Home of the Bears)

posted 31 October 2001 04:35 PM     profile     
If it's a Twin Reverb...you can rule out the rectifier tube right away. No way it could be that.

If it was a cap you could probably smell it. Even if there's no smell, I'd have to look at the filter caps to start with.....if it's gone you can see it when you take the chassis outta the cab and look at them.

If that ain't it, holler back and someone here can probably help find out what it is.

Rod

------------------
Rod's Place

Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 31 October 2001 06:28 PM     profile     
Robert, There is an 85% chance it could be a tube. If the noise you heard was very loud, then it could be one of the smaller tubes
in the pre-amp, reverb or driver circuit.
If you have some spare tubes, try them.
If not, take it to your local amp tech.
I've used tube amps since 1953 and keep a spare set with me when I go to a gig.
There is a 10% chance it could be an electrolytic cap....and a 5% chance a resistor or transformer has failed.
Blake

[This message was edited by Blake Hawkins on 31 October 2001 at 06:32 PM.]

Robert
Member

From: Champaign, IL

posted 31 October 2001 07:04 PM     profile     
Thanks, all:
At under $100., a re-cap sounds about right. I figure it's been about five years on the set that's in the amp now, so . . . please, not a transformer! Seems like that might be a bit pricey. Thanks again, and I'll keep the curious posted once I get to the bottom of it.

Rob Yale

Jay Ganz
Member

From: Out Behind The Barn

posted 01 November 2001 06:54 AM     profile     
'68 Twin Reverb amps don't have
a rectifier tube anyhow. They use a
series of diodes.
Rodney Shuffler
Member

From: Montgomery, Texas USA (Home of the Bears)

posted 01 November 2001 07:05 AM     profile     
That's why I said there's no way it could be that.

------------------
Rod's Place

Paul Graupp
Member

From: Macon Ga USA

posted 01 November 2001 07:38 AM     profile     
Take a look at those four 6L6GCs or whatever output tubes are used while the amp is on. If they glow Blue it's time for new !!

Regards, Paul

Patrick Smith
Member

From: Shreveport, LA, USA

posted 01 November 2001 08:03 AM     profile     
Knee jerk reaction says a problem tube is afoot....does it behave this way on both channels?....if not then swip-swap the 2 preamp tubes all the way to the right as you look at the back of the amp.....just swap em'....now, has the problem moved from one channel to another?

If it's in both, I would certainly heed the advice on your power tubes and check the PI tube....that may be your problem.

I would bet the farm that it's either a tube problem which is easily fixed, or a solder joint problem, which is easier to fix.

Oh, and when you find that rectifier tube please e-mail me it's approx location, I can't seem to find the rectifier tube in any of my twin reverbs......

PMS
Britney's Louisiana Love Dumplin'

[This message was edited by Patrick Smith on 01 November 2001 at 08:04 AM.]

Rodney Shuffler
Member

From: Montgomery, Texas USA (Home of the Bears)

posted 01 November 2001 08:10 AM     profile     
Fender amps over 45 watts don't have tube rectos....lol; sorry guys I was just makin' a joke. Rod

------------------
Rod's Place

Patrick Smith
Member

From: Shreveport, LA, USA

posted 01 November 2001 09:54 AM     profile     
Us too Rodney!......LOL Some things are just too fun to leave alone.....

PMS

PS-nice web page!...nice tele!

Michael Frede
Member

From: Sonoita, AZ, USA

posted 01 November 2001 01:29 PM     profile     
Filter caps go bad gradually.A 60Hz hum starts off being barely noticable and then builds up to an obnoxiuos level,but you should still hear your guitar through it.The transformer failures usually involve arcing and/or blown fuses.Loss of bias voltage in the output stage can cause a loud hum and no guitar signal output but not for long as the output tubes will start to melt down and the fuse would blow.BTW,I have seen brand new military spec NOS tubes glow blue or purple from the first time they are used.This by no means indicates that they are bad!Very small amounts of rare,inert gas still remain inside the tube after it is evacuated and are ionized by the high plate voltage.This ionization takes place on the inside edge of the glass envelope and is of no consequence.It is possible a preamp tube has failed(an open heater filament),although rare.From the desciption of the problem,I would suspect failure of a passive componant in the preamp or phase inverter section,or solder connection(s).Of course,anyone who knows what they're doing should find this one pretty quick.
Pharaoh
Member

From: Raleigh, NC, USA

posted 01 November 2001 02:58 PM     profile     
No way to tell EXACTLY what's wrong without a good look around. My vote is for a bad solder joint in the phase inverter, or a bad phase inverter tube. I would take the amp to a qualified technician and tell him exactly what you posted here. That should be enough of a description to get him going.

Good Luck!
Matt Farrow
Pharaoh Amplifiers

------------------
Matt Farrow
Marlen 9-string 6+2
Kustom K150

http://www.skybolt6.com/pharaohamps


Robert
Member

From: Champaign, IL

posted 01 November 2001 04:13 PM     profile     
As usual - lots of good info. I dropped the amp off at the shop this morning. The very trustworthy guy that will perform the work suspects a filter cap. But it didn't go gradually - it went "Pffft!" - PDQ! I hadn't experienced the gradual increase in 60 cycle hum. I'll find out soon enough. BTW - after dropping off the amp I had the car in for $400. in repairs to the emission control system. One of those weeks . . .

thanks,
Rob Yale

Rodney Shuffler
Member

From: Montgomery, Texas USA (Home of the Bears)

posted 01 November 2001 05:15 PM     profile     
I had a filter cap go out one night (thankfully it was during a practice). It went quick and there was no mistaking the smell.....it's kinda like brakes burning, once you smell it you know what it is.

At any rate, I always keep spare caps, tubes etc... I popped some caps in while everyone else smoked and we took off again.

------------------
Rod's Place

Paul Graupp
Member

From: Macon Ga USA

posted 01 November 2001 07:12 PM     profile     
Michael; You're right about the halo gases but it's the gas that gets between the tube elements that causes the mess. That's why there is usually a gas test when you check tubes. That left over from the getter will usually glow at 455vDC but in the low level tubes you may not see it at all.

Robert, let us know what you find out when they get it all fixed up.

Regards, Paul

Pharaoh
Member

From: Raleigh, NC, USA

posted 02 November 2001 09:00 AM     profile     
I have a friend in a band in NYC down here in NC playing a gig a year or 2 ago, and at soundcheck, his Fender amp all of a sudden started making some horrible farting noises. Turned out one of the filter caps had broken off the board in the cap pan. I put in a new filter cap the next day and he was back in action - but it goes to show that caps can fail suddenly, too.

Good luck with the amp - it shouldn't cost too much to fix, at least it wouldn't if I were fixing it, can't speak for other techs.

Matt Farrow
Pharaoh Amplifiers

------------------
Matt Farrow
Marlen 9-string 6+2
Kustom K150

http://www.skybolt6.com/pharaohamps


Robert
Member

From: Champaign, IL

posted 08 November 2001 07:00 PM     profile     
I pick up the Twin reverb tomorrow. Filter caps! Another problem I had was a weak vibrato (the few times I wanted to use it) - I was using a new footswitch with the RCA jacks from Fender. Well - it was wired backwards! No wonder the vibrato wasn't working. So - Terry (Guitar Works, Evanston) is going to re-solder the switch for me, too. I think I'll take the steel to the shop for the test drive. Thanks, all, for your interest and advice.

Rob Yale

Bob Carlson
Member

From: Surprise AZ.

posted 09 November 2001 09:00 PM     profile     
Robert,
You may already know this, but the reason tube amps have a standby switch Is to keep the tubes warm.

A tube slowly burns Itself up. If you turn one on for only a half hour at a time the deposits will build up and It will start frying bacon. Ask your repair man about how to make tubes last longer.

Bob Carlson

Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 10 November 2001 03:16 AM     profile     
Bob, that reason is a new on me. And, I had basic electronics training back in 1955 when it was all tubes.
Robert
Member

From: Champaign, IL

posted 10 November 2001 07:31 AM     profile     
Bob:
If I'm going to play for any length of time, I'll use that stand-by switch - many times, though, I've less than an hour to play/practice, so I'm definitely hard on the tubes. They're on for 40 minutes and off again. Playing the steel without the amplifier is not very satisfying, though, so I pay the price. BTW - after getting the amp back yesterday, I played for 2-3 hours (used the stand-by, too) and the old beast sounds great.

Thanks,
Rob Yale

Paul Graupp
Member

From: Macon Ga USA

posted 10 November 2001 11:28 AM     profile     
Jack; Same schooling for me. I always thought the coating on the cathodes to help electron emmision was the failing factor. ie: no emmision, no gain. Since the cathode is structurally right around the filament and is activated by heat, I don't think removing the B+ from the plate via the standby switch would help cathode life all that much.

I always thought of the standby switch as a fast way of coming up to power without the filament warm up period normally required. I changed tubes the same way I change strings.
On a regular basis and not like the old joke; when they break. I still do the same with my Tube-Fex. If I waited until they ran down I know I'd be caught with my drawers down some night in the middle of a song. No need for that when a couple dollars worth of tubes would avoid that risk.

I once had someone write to me that the standby switch was to save "Filter Caps." All I could think was : Huh ??

I used to take old tubes apart and examine them. I've seen hot spot on plates and breaks in the screen or control grids but never any deposits. You can see the errosion of the cathode coating but I wouldn't consider that a deposit. I would attribute the frying sounds so commonly reffered to as intra-elemental gases probably caused by leakage in the tube seal. This would also affect the inter element capacitance values and change the tube parameters a bunch.

Regards, Paul

Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 10 November 2001 12:00 PM     profile     
Robert, Thanks for the feed back on your amp.
Those of us who take a crack at diagnosing over the internet always like to know what
actually fixed it.
Glad to see you are up and running.

Jack and Paul...I have to agree with you on the standby switch function. My understanding is that it's purpose is "instant on" for the Amp.
The standby switch is usually placed in the High Voltage (B+ line for us Techies) line.
When you activate it, it removes the high voltage from the tubes which stops their function. Although the heaters and cathodes are still hot...there is no current drawn and no emission from the cathode. Also the tube cools down a bit because the plate is no longer dissapating heat. So there may be some less wear on the cathode, however its benefit is probably offset by the metal fatigue caused by the contraction and expansion of cooling the tube down and then heating it up again.
In the Fender Twin the switch is placed after the filter caps and before the tubes...so it is not protecting the filters.
It is, in fact stressing them more because when you open the switch, the load is removed from the power supply and the voltage rises across the caps.
Blake

Bob Carlson
Member

From: Surprise AZ.

posted 10 November 2001 09:22 PM     profile     
Jack, Paul and Blake.
The information I gave on tubes came from an artical In "Guitar Player" magazine.

They went so far as to say, If you use your amp on and off during the day and evening, to leave It on all the time, but put In standby when not using It.

Bob Carlson.

Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 11 November 2001 04:06 AM     profile     
Unfortunately a lot of "technical" articles in magazines such as that are not written by someone with a technical background.

I won't say the person that wrote the article you cite is or isn't technical. I've never seen the article.

Just that I've seen a lot of mis-information in many types of print media.

Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 11 November 2001 04:41 AM     profile     
Bob, It is possible that the author of the article predicated his conclusion on the feeling that it is better to leave the tube heaters hot rather than turn them on and off several times during the day.
There is some validity in that.
The constant heating and cooling of the tube will increase metal fatigue and that is thought by some to decrease the life of the tube.
After all, the heater of the tube is very much like an incandescent light bulb.
I don't think the difference is significant.
During the day I turn my amps On and Off as needed. If I will only be away from the amp for less than an hour, I leave it On.
I worked in Broadcasting for many years. The tube equipment was on for 24 hours a day and the tubes, including the power output tubes sometimes lasted for years.
Of course, we didn't drive them to the limits as is done in a Guitar Amp.
If I am doing a gig, I use the standby switch between sets....it keeps the amp quiet and if anyone walks by and brushes the strings there is no sound.

Blake

Bill C. Buntin
Member

From: back at home in Cleburne, TX

posted 11 November 2001 05:07 AM     profile     
Do pre-amp tubes need to be replaced more often than power tubes? In relation to average playing out, say 2 nights a week, how often (generally speaking) does tube replacement come around?
Bill Crook
Member

From: Goodlettsville, TN , Spending my kid's inheritance

posted 11 November 2001 04:04 PM     profile     
quote:
Do pre-amp tubes need to be replaced more often than power tubes?

No,in general,I wouldn't change a tube out just because it has a little time on it. If it is noise,gassy,or obviously exhibiting a low gain problem,then one,of course,would replace it.

Someone stated above about the blue glow in the power tubes. At a high plate voltage this is completly normal. Now, a red plate element IS NOT NORMAL.

I,like Mr.Stoner,grew up on tube stuff and today,I find many mis-beliefs by the younger generation about tube circuits. Many techs now-a-days haven't even had any training in tubes. There is a reason tube amps sound better than SS amps. While I won't go into this area,the techs that understand tubes,know where I'm comming from.

Replaceing tubes just because (bla,bla).......is a myth. Most of you don't remember when RCA, G.E. and other brand tubes were abound. they were good tubes,made here in the U.S.A. The crap we are forced to purchase from overseas today,is floor-sweepings.

Please send me all your tubes you have changes out for new ones !!!

Rule of thumb.....
Unless the amp is giving you a problem.... leave the tubes along !!


Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 11 November 2001 04:10 PM     profile     
Bill Buntin: The pre amp tubes usually last longer than the power tubes because they are not stressed as much.
What Bill Crook said is correct. We come from the same era of tube equipment.
Blake
Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 11 November 2001 04:34 PM     profile     
When I worked for Little Roy, we made a lot of money from people that would bring their tube amp in and want it "retubed". It didn't do any good to try and reason with most of them. "The customer is right" so I'd do it. Even retubed Ralph Mooney's Twin Reverb one time.

I had a good stock of used tubes for quite a while.

Paul Graupp
Member

From: Macon Ga USA

posted 11 November 2001 06:10 PM     profile     
Well I guess Gen LeMay and SAC were wrong ie: bla bla too. They had an SOP that all tubes would be replaced with certified and tested replacements at regular intervals. Seems they couldn't tolerate a failure in the middle of a song either.

Maybe it's a cost factor that is most influential in the matter and while I don't change strings like this I have seen bands that restring before each show. That would be cost prohibitive for me but on the other hand I don't wait for one to fail either. There has to be some middle ground in both matters and background and the situation have a lot to do with it.

If you are just practicing at home is one thing but playing a show for a top name act is something else. You act accordingly.

Regards, Paul

gary darr
Member

From: Childress,somewhere out in Texas

posted 11 November 2001 07:49 PM     profile     
I had a similar problem with my peavy tube amp, in regards to the tubes glowing red and the 60 cycle hum thing,is it possible that the power tubes are still ok and filter caps is all that needs replacing( I shut the amp down just as soon as I heard the hum )there doesnt seem to be anything melted inside the tube or is this condition a "death sentence" for the tubes?

------------------
sho-bud,session 500,american standard strat,shecter tele,peavy classic 50


Bob Carlson
Member

From: Surprise AZ.

posted 11 November 2001 07:58 PM     profile     
Blake,
That Is pretty much what he was saying. But as I stated the first time, he said a tube slowly burns Itself up. If not kept on, the deposits would build up on the tube, instead of falling to the bottom, making the amp sound like It was frying bacon.

Don't claim to be a tube amp expert, but I've always been able to keep my own working,
and what he said makes sense to me.

When you said the tubes In your power amps at the station would last for years, isn't that telling us something.

Bob Carlson.

[This message was edited by Bob Carlson on 11 November 2001 at 08:04 PM.]

Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 12 November 2001 03:23 AM     profile     
Replacing all the tubes with new ones is not a 100% guarantee. I've replaced a lot of "warranty" tubes for customers, and returned them to the electronics distributer for replacements. Both when I did amp repair and earlier when I worked for a Motorola 2-way radio dealer.

I was in the AF at the time LeMay was the SAC chief. The only thing I'll say is I'm glad I was never in SAC. NASA had much more stringent requirements/regulations on equipment (more stringent than "mil spec") and they never required periodic replacement of tubes.

Robert
Member

From: Champaign, IL

posted 12 November 2001 05:08 AM     profile     
Gary:
If your tubes were OK before and your filter caps did a meltdown - it's not a "death sentence" for the tubes. You shut the amp down, like I did when the caps failed on the Twin Reverb. Well, I had two of the caps (yes - just two and not all five) replaced. It seems that three out of five were the original Astron's! At any rate, it cost about $60. in parts and labor and everything is jake. I didn't need to re-tube and you might not have to, either. Next time I need tubes I'm going to try Svetlana's.

Rob Yale

Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 12 November 2001 06:33 AM     profile     
Bob, I like the comment about the flakes from the cathode falling to the bottom of the tube.

Have you looked at the way the tubes are mounted in your Fender Twin? They are upside down. If the flakes fall from the cathode..they fall to the top of the tube, and can collect on the mica insulating washers around the plate and grid structure...maybe causing some popping and noise...maybe not.
Most tube guitar amps have the tubes upside down.
Over the life of a tube certainly part of the cathode may become "dead" and in some cases flake off. Unless you are into rejuvenating tubes (a whole subject in itself) it is better to just replace the tube.
Paul, There is no rational accounting for the way the military does things. Like Jack, I've found factory fresh tubes that were bad. There is no absolutely accurate way to predict when a tube will go on on you. Back in the days of analog, tube type television, we kept accurate records of our tubes parameters, measureing the camera tubes once a month and replacing any that had started to weaken. However, we never replaced all at once, because there is drift and aging to be accounted for and a completely retubed camera would be unstable for several days and require constant adjustment.
I agree, when you are with a Major Act you want to be in the best shape. I was never in that league, but when I played for money, I always carried a spare set of tubes for the amp, just as I carried spare patch cords.
You probably had one or more complete amps as back up.
In tube techonlogy, it is fun to discuss things like this...but there are no absolutes. Too many variables in the tubes themselves, in the equipment and in the way the equipment is used.
Bob, I'm not sure what you ment by your last comment?
Blake

[This message was edited by Blake Hawkins on 12 November 2001 at 06:35 AM.]

Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 12 November 2001 06:46 AM     profile     
Paul, After looking over my long winded reply above, I feel I should say a little more about the Military Electronics Maintenance.
The data which results in the Periodic Replacement of components such as tubes is based upon engineering predictions of MTBF, Mean Time Between Failure.
Frequently this data is supplied by the equipment manufacturer and is based upon calculated rather than emperical information.
Naturally, everybody is into the CYA mode, so they come up with some very conservative proceedures designed to protect everybody.
When I was in the military, one of our maintenance sheets called for inspecting the knobs every day. We always filled it out and sent it in...the knobs were solid aluminum...never even scratched one.
Blake
Paul Graupp
Member

From: Macon Ga USA

posted 12 November 2001 07:49 AM     profile     
Blake; First let me say it is a pleasure talking with you and Jack and all the others who have joined this Topic. It is a very broad subject and will endure many opinions.

I recall walking from WRAL studio engineering to the studio, very carefully carrying a Vidicon tube to be replaced in a camera. Those you replaced based on degradation of any gun and not on a routine basis. Redundancy of cameras was our CYA.

You also reminded me of something from my military past. We used to have to fill out EFRs (Electronic Failure Reports.) and your spare replenishmnet program was based on your failure trends. I never made out an EFR on a fuse because I felt that when it blew, it didn't fail; IT WORKED ! That was what it was supposed to do. If it didn't blow and the circuits following it were destroyed; then it FAILED !

When I ran out of fuses I called for bench stock and was refused. You show no consumption. And like so many others I learned the hard way; You don't mess with the system or you loose. It isn't nice to fool with Father USAF !!

Thanks for the memories !! Paul

Bob Farlow
Member

From: Marietta,GA,

posted 12 November 2001 08:41 AM     profile     
The fact is: the standby switch is there to prevent "cathode stripping", which is caused by high voltage being applied to the tubes before the filament has heated the electron-emmiting coating of the cathode to the proper operating temperature. The tube life will be shortened if not given enough time to heat the cathode before applying the high voltage. 45-60 seconds is the recommended time to allow sufficient warmup.
This is realy necessary, especially in Fender amps some of which are designed to apply voltages to tubes which are above the maximum ratings of the tube.You can take it to the bank!
Blake Hawkins
Member

From: Land O'Lakes, Florida

posted 12 November 2001 09:48 AM     profile     
Bob Farlow, What you say is true about not applying the HV to the tube before it is at operating temperature.
So, a Fender Twin should be powered up by first turning on the Standby Switch, then the Main Power switch.
That's a good practice...but the operator has to be trained to do it.
Most of the time when we use the standby switch, the amp is already hot.
Perhaps we will never know who put the first standby switch on an amp or his reasons.
There are standby switches on solid state amps as well as tube types.
I agree that the Fender Twin..really stresses the tubes. They are operated at or above their maximum ratings.
In looking at the phlosophy of their design, I don't think the engineers were concerned about tube life.
They were squeezing every bit of power and performance possible from the amp.
If they were worried about the voltages at initial turn on, there are many "tried and true" ways they could have used to hold the HV off until the tubes were at operating temperature.
Given all the discussion in this thread, The Fender Twin, has been an exceptionally popular and well regarded amplifier. Certainly among the best guitar amps ever made. No matter how you treat them, the tubes seem to give a fairly long life and good service.
Blake

[This message was edited by Blake Hawkins on 12 November 2001 at 09:49 AM.]


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