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Author
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Topic: Changing Battery in Profex 2
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Ted Nesbitt
Member From: Northern Ireland
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posted 09 September 2004 04:43 AM
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Has anyone ever changed the battery in a Profex 2. Is it a simple job? Any tips would be welcome.
Thanks in advance
Ted Nesbitt
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Mike Brown
Member From: Meridian, Mississippi USA
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posted 09 September 2004 05:53 AM
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Ted, if you are good with a soldering iron and can assemble and disassemble, you can do it. The unit has to be disassembled and the circuit board should be removed and turned over in order to unsolder the existing battery. Then, reassemble in reverse order and reinitialize. BE SURE THAT YOU PROPERLY CLEAN THE CIRCUIT BOARD IN CASE THE BATTERY LEAKED. Hope that this helps. Mike Brown
Peavey Electronics Corporation |
Dag Wolf
Member From: Bergen, Norway
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posted 09 September 2004 06:59 AM
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The battery has three legs. Unsolder the side with one leg first and bend the battery up then unsolder the rest.Dag |
Jerry Roller
Member From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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posted 09 September 2004 07:34 AM
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Ted, go to a radio supply such as Radio Shack and buy the desoldering braid if you don't have any. You touch it to a solder joint and heat it and it absorbs the solder from the joint into the braid. This makes it easier to remove the old battery and leaves the holes open to reinsert the new one. This is very basic but I didn't know about the stuff for many years.
Jerry |
Ken Fox
Member From: Ray City, GA USA
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posted 09 September 2004 09:38 AM
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Disassmebly is the hard part, unless you have done it before. The idea is to remove the top and bottom covers only, leaving the front and rear panels still attached to the circuit board.-remove the top, six screws, two right side, two left side , one in the front and one in the rear (they are off centered to left of mid point)
-remove the bottom, small machine screws and all remain screws around the edge of the unit.
-That should allow you to pull the bottom away from the board, all that is left is a circuit board and front/rear panels
-Do not use wick when removing battery, only afterwards to clean the holes. Touch iron to the battery lead on the end with one connection only. While heating, reach around the other side and pull the battery end out of the board.
-The other end had two connections. Heat back and forth between the connections while pulling up on the appropriate end until the battery is removed.
-Use wick and clean the holed out. If a hole will not wick, add solder to the hole and wick it again.
-Use acetone (finger nail polish remover) or denatured alcohol with a Q-tip swab to clean the board, both sides.
-Install new battery, solder and clean joints as above.
-Re-initialize the unit. All your settings will be lost, be sure to save them to a card or midi storage device for re-loading. |
Ted Nesbitt
Member From: Northern Ireland
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posted 09 September 2004 01:39 PM
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Many thanks Mike..Dag..Jerry and Ken,you have all been very helpful. I wll have a crack at it this week-end and will let you know the outcome. Im pretty confident I can handle the job Ok.
Ted Nesbitt |
Jim Smith
Member From: Plano, TX, USA
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posted 09 September 2004 02:03 PM
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quote:
I wll have a crack at it
I hope it doesn't!  |
Ray Minich
Member From: Limestone, New York, USA
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posted 09 September 2004 06:27 PM
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quote:
Do not use wick when removing battery, only afterwards to clean the holes. Touch iron to the battery lead on the end with one connection only. While heating, reach around the other side and pull the battery end out of the board.
If you have access to a good parts store maybe you can buy one of them vacuum solder suckers. Worth their weight in solder for cleanin' holes and not very expensive. Be careful not to overheat the foil tracing pads lest they lift from the substrate.[This message was edited by Ray Minich on 09 September 2004 at 06:28 PM.] |
jim flynn
Member From: Salado,Texas
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posted 09 September 2004 07:07 PM
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I have changed the battery in a Profex II
But I dont get the "How To" to reinitialize
the unit. I have a card with the presets. Can someone guide me thru it.
Thanks
Jim Flynn, LoneStar Steel Guitars ------------------
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David Higginbotham
Member From: Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA
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posted 09 September 2004 08:05 PM
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Jim, hold the global and play buttons at the same time and then plug the unit in. This will reinitialize to factory settings. To install the settings that are on the card into the profex, insert the card and then use the global button to get to the "cart" menu. Tab over to "load" and press the store button. This will load the settings on the card back into the profex.
Dave |
John Daugherty
Member From: Rolla, Missouri, USA
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posted 10 September 2004 10:26 AM
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Do it like Ken Fox says. He is a technician and knows how to do it right. I have been a service technician for 40 years and can offer a little extra advise. The reason you should not use solder wick to remove the battery is: (1)you may get the battery hot enough to explode (2) it is simply easier and faster to heat the solder and pull a wire out of a hole.
I don't waste solder wick to clean a hole. I heat the solder and stick a needle through the hole. I make a tool by drilling a hole in the end of a small wooden dowel and inserting a large needle in it. The steel needle does not get hot enough for the solder to stick to it........JD |
Ken Fox
Member From: Ray City, GA USA
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posted 10 September 2004 09:44 PM
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I have several excellent solder suckers, but I never ever use them for battery replacements. Overheating will result in a lifted trace and/or a solder pad!
I have replaced over 100 batteries in Profex 2, Bassfex, Transtubefex, Tubefex, Autograph and Midi-Filers. I only use the solder suckers on my old Fender amps to get the largest part out of the eyelet, then I use wick to cklean it up. After that I use denatured alcohol for the final cleaning.
This is a job for an experienced tech, with good soldering skills and an awareness of the damage that can be done by static electricity to the components in the unit.
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Kevin Mincke
Member From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA
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posted 10 September 2004 10:30 PM
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Go with Ken on this............ |
jim flynn
Member From: Salado,Texas
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posted 13 September 2004 05:51 AM
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David, thanks for the info, I'll try it today, just got back to the shop, My last child had her first baby, so you know that was a priority. Thanks again.
Jim------------------
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Mike Brown
Member From: Meridian, Mississippi USA
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posted 13 September 2004 07:27 AM
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For your convenience, the operating guide for the Profex II is downloadable. Section 2.7, page 24 describes the initialization process.Here is the link to that publication and as always feel free to contact me toll free here at Peavey by using our toll free North American number at 1-877-732-8391. I'll be glad to walk you through the process. The link; http://www.peavey.com/support/searchmanuals/results.cfm Mike Brown
Peavey Electronics Corporation |
Smiley Roberts
Member From: Hendersonville,Tn. 37075
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posted 14 September 2004 03:57 PM
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I changed mine. No problem at all. Didn't even have to dis-assemble the board.------------------
~ ~
©¿© It don't mean a thang,
mm if it ain't got that twang.
www.ntsga.com |
jim flynn
Member From: Salado,Texas
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posted 17 September 2004 10:21 AM
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To Mike Brown, Peavy , It was so kind of you to offer help with re-initialiging my Profex. Most dealers and Mfg's would'nt bother. I believe that the forum members are faithful to those who help us out. I'm a Peavy fan as I own 2- Session 500's. a CS200x
and 2 spare 15" BW, as well as 2 profex's.
Thanks again.
Jim Flynn, Lone Star Steel Guitar |
Donny Hinson
Member From: Balto., Md. U.S.A.
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posted 24 September 2004 05:30 PM
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If I have to remove a large component from a PWB, one like a soldered-in battery or a jack, I first cut the component out with a pair of "shock proof" diagonals. (These cut with a "shearing" action, or a single beveled side, instead of two beveled edges which impart mechanical shock when cutting.) Quite often, large components act as a heat sink and make it difficult to get the temperature high enough to desolder without causing board damage. But... Why worry about the old component if you're replacing it anyway? Carefully cut it out first, and then you'll have only the small cut lead stubs to desolder. It sure makes that "removal" job a lot easier!  |
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