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  Hot" pickup problems...

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Author Topic:   Hot" pickup problems...
Bob Carlucci
Member

From: Candor, New York, USA

posted 12 August 2005 07:27 AM     profile     
I often wondered why most steel guitarists like pickups in the 19-22 k range... I find these very strong pickups to be VERY thick and heavy sounding,overdrive the CRAP out of tube amps to the point that hardly anyone even uses them anymore, and just take away the possibility of obtaining the sound we all fell in love with years ago..

Those great sounds from vintage wood body steels were made with much lighter wound pickups than we use today, and tube amps of course.


Why have most guys abandoned the lightly wound units??.. I personally use an 8 k pickup, which is a GREAT sound with my Fender tube amps. Most players think I'm a nut, but I get a very vintage sound from a modern steel...

Is it possible guys think you need strong pickups for good sustain??.. I personally don't buy it, I think sustain is more a function of guitar design, and I'm skeptical of the notion that a 20 K pickup will give longer sustain that a 10 K one..

On standard guitar, a trick to increase the sustain is to LOWER the pickup.. decreasing magnetic pull on the strings, allowing them to vibrate more freely... it works too.. you just have to crank the amp a little higher ...

I dunno,,, anyone care to comment on this??.. I know I'm in the minority, but I still say the reason the old steels had that magical sound was NOT the bodies and mechanisms.. it was the bright clear, warm sound of sensibly wound pickups... Just MHO.. what do you guys think?? bob

[This message was edited by Bob Carlucci on 12 August 2005 at 09:23 AM.]

[This message was edited by Bob Carlucci on 12 August 2005 at 04:18 PM.]

Steinar Gregertsen
Member

From: Arendal, Norway

posted 12 August 2005 07:54 AM     profile     
You may be in the 'minority', but I agree with you.. Never liked too hot pickups, in my experience weaker pickups are more responsive to the dynamics of my picking, and very hot pickups also have a tendency to completely 'hijack' the sound of the instrument.

To me, an electric guitar/steel is still an 'acoustic' instrument where most of the tone/sustain is generated by the instrument itself, and the pickups job is to 'transfer' that sound to the amp (I realize there are wildly different opinions on this though). My Asher Electro Hawaiian is a perfect example of this IMO, when I plug it in I recognize the beautiful warm tone I hear when I play it acoustically.

Guess it's all a matter of personal taste and what you're used to, but I prefer my pickups to be in the regular single-coil < P-90 output range....

Steinar

------------------
www.gregertsen.com


Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 12 August 2005 07:55 AM     profile     
If you use a Lawrence pickup the DC resistance or number of turns is not an issue. His pickups use more accurace and electronically "correct" parameters. e.g. two 710 pickups may not have the same DC resistance.

The DC resistance is relative, anyway as that is only one variable among many. You could take an Emmons pickup that has a certain resistance and a Zum or whatever pickup wound to the same DC resistance and have very different output and responses.

Bob Carlucci
Member

From: Candor, New York, USA

posted 12 August 2005 09:31 AM     profile     
Jack, you are correct of course, but I was thinking in general terms.. .. I have seen "weak" 16 K pickups and "hot" 9 K pickups.. a lot depends on magnet size and wire thickness etc, but generally speaking, more windings mean higher output,,

Even when you look at or hold an old pick up, you can tell it has less "beef" than late model pickups...

btw, Those old lapsteels from the 40's and 50's had a huge sound... I'd like to know how "hot" those pick ups were wound... bob

David Mason
Member

From: Cambridge, MD, USA

posted 12 August 2005 12:25 PM     profile     
I've wondered about the reasoning or evolution of this too - maybe steel guitarists just got mad that the lead players got all the girls, "if you can't beat 'em, at least drown 'em out?" Or quite possibly, it was felt that a hot pickup could drive a signal down a longer cord, one of the reasons that six-stringers still flirt with active electronics off and on. Once one guy got known for a hot pickup, the next guy had to build his hotter, and on and on, before you know it, you'd have people selling 180 mph cars in a country with 65 mph speed limits! Couldn't happen...

On a practical basis, if you want to use picking-sensitive effects like distortion, envelope followers, even certain ways of using compression, the hot steel pickups mean you have to attenuate the signal with yet another box, adding another batch of transistors to your signal chain. Next steel I buy, I'll insist on a volume knob - I might even drill this one out for one (Carter), it can't be a hard installation.

Larry Robbins
Member

From: Fort Edward, New York, USA

posted 12 August 2005 12:29 PM     profile     
Im with you Bob, I had Jerry Wallace rewind the pickups on my 73 PRO II to 11.5 and 17.5
(coil taps) for both necks.Some thought they would be too light...They give me Great
vintage Bud tone...in fact I hardley ever use the 17.5 tap setting but, once in a while its a nice touch for some tunes.

------------------
73 PRO II, 79/80 PRO III
Steelkings,Fender guitars,Preston covers,
and Taylor(Tut that is)
Reso's
"Of all the things Ive lost in life, I miss my mind the most"

Dave Mudgett
Member

From: Central Pennsylvania, USA

posted 12 August 2005 01:04 PM     profile     
Bob - I basically agree with your thesis. With a purely linear amp, more windings or a 'hotter' pickup do not equal more sustain. But if one overdrives the amp out of the linear region into saturation, there is an increase in sustain. When an amp is in saturation, as the input signal envelope decreases, it gets less and less saturated, but not lower in volume. The issue is how that saturation is achieved. IMO, well-designed tube and solid-state amps do it differently.

With a tube amp, saturation is achieved by harmonic distortion due to gradual current limiting in the power tube, leading to a 'natural compression' effect. The tubes saturate so gradually, that many find the harmonic distortion sound musical, but not everybody does.

Most people consider solid state amps 'linear'. If an amp is acting linearly, like most pedal steel players say they prefer, then as the input signal envelope gets smaller, so does the output signal envelope. But I don't believe most modern solid-state amps are truly 'linear' like that. Most have built-in compression/limiting (probably based on the signal envelope, not the instantaneous signal) so having these high-output pickups cleanly drives the amp into compression, hence increases sustain. Just a different sound than the tube approach, and de gustibus non disputandum. I think there are reasonable applications for both.

This might help explain why some prefer tube amps and others prefer solid-state. It's the interaction between pickup and amp that really makes the difference. The tube-amp guys with lower-output, glassier-sounding pickups complain that the solid-state amps are harsh and sterile. For them, they're right - they need the tube amp, which their lower-output pickups can push to the edge of the linear region, and sound great. The solid-state amp guys with the hot-wound pickups complain that the tube amps sound distorted. For them, they're also right - the hot pickup pushes the solid-state amp into the edge of the compression-region and get that little bit of 'lift' like a tube player gets. They do sound different, but both approaches are valid, IMO.

Jack is of course correct - windings don't determine everything. The magnet has a lot to do with this. I prefer Lawrence humbuckers on a steel for this reason, since the magnetic strength is lower (or for his air-coils, non-existent). I find my Lawrence 705 sounds good on either tube or solid-state amp, but I probably lean to tube - well, I'm a guitar player, what do you expect?

Brad Sarno
Member

From: St. Louis, MO USA

posted 12 August 2005 01:51 PM     profile     
Bob, I have a theory on this. It's just a theory. It seems that the trend for "hot" steel pickups grew around the time period that transistor amps began to replace tube amps as the standard steel amp. The hotter pickups generally have less of the crisp top end and much more thick midrange. I think players found that an older, relatively under-wound pickup would sound too crisp, shiny, thin, or glassy thru a transistor rig while the hotter, over-wound pickup would sound thicker and warmer thru the same rig.

I've noticed a trend these days with players who are using tube preamps and/or tube amps. They seem to generally prefer the under-wound, more vintage sounding pickups. I've seen a few guys who have had their new True-Tones wound up around 18.5k for their transistor rigs. I've seen others have them wound down around 16k for their tube rigs. I've got an old ZB with the 3 taps on the pickup. The taps are roughly 8k, 14k, and 21k. Thru tube rigs I much prefer the 14k setting. Thru say a NV112 or LTD, the 21k setting has more "warmth".

So my theory is that pickups grew to be overwound to compensate for the harsher sound of transistors in attempts to re-gain some lost warmth. The problem I hear is that overwinding may tame the highs, but it also takes away some clarity and definition and also makes the sound "harder" and not harmonically richer or sweeter. Personally, I much prefer the sound of cleanly run tubes mixed with the old-school, "cooler" pickups. I think it's great that Jerry Wallace will wind them to whatever your heart desires.

Brad Sarno
www.steelguitarblackbox.com

Bob Carlucci
Member

From: Candor, New York, USA

posted 12 August 2005 04:18 PM     profile     
Dave and Brad.. hats off my friends.. I loved BOTH of your explanations/theories!!... I imagine my love for amps with "tubey goodness" is the reason nothing else sounds right to me... If I use a pickup of even moderate output, I hear that unmistakable "crunch" when I lean on it a bit... With my 8-12 K set up, I hear clean glassy,very "pedal steely" tone .. If I am using these with a SS amp I hear sterile treble.

.. To each his own I guess.. The SS/21K guys sound beautiful.. as do the 11 K/ tube guys... Its all about the sound thats in your head... I have tubes,leaky caps, weak pickups and rusty strings in my head... thats MY tone!! bob

James Quackenbush
Member

From: Pomona, New York, USA

posted 14 August 2005 08:17 PM     profile     
This is a very interesting thread .....There have been very few humbucking pickups that I have liked over the year's for either guitar , or for pedal steel .... This thread make's complete sense to me since the humbuckers alway's seemed sterile to me with no character ....After reading this thread , I realize now that in my situation, the amp's that I generally run are tube amps !!...I also run a split coil Truetone in my steel's ....17.5 k seems to be the magic number and I rarely go any higher, and then I will split the coil down anywhere from 9k to 12k ....Let's not forget either the fact that when running a tube amp with a tube preamp especially, the tubes also offer a certain amount of not only harmonic's , but also compression ..
That little bit of tube compression also account's for added sustain .... I do enjoy the clap trap pickup that I have in my Sierra quite a bit ...Doe's anyone know what the output of those were originally in the 3 different settings ?..... Since they are a sweet sounding pickup, especially for a humbucker, I can only assume after this thread that they are not especially high output ....If anyone know's the output on the 3 stages of this pickup, please give me a hollar .....Thanks to all......Jim

Question....Do these theories also apply to amps like the Webb which is solid state , but has circuitry to emulate the tube tone ?? My lower powered single coil pickups sure do sound good thru a Webb.....I'm guessing humbuckers sound pretty good also !!.....Jim

Donny Hinson
Member

From: Balto., Md. U.S.A.

posted 15 August 2005 08:50 AM     profile     
I've never run into the problem some steelers seem to have with "hot" pickups. If a pickup distorts because of high output, the easy solution is to raise the gains on the amp, and just use less volume pedal. (It's the volume pedal, and not the pickup, that determines how much gain hits the first stage in the amp!) I've seen some steelers that have the pre-gain set on 5, and the master on 4, and then they complain about distortion from a "hot" pickup when they floor the volume pedal!

Duh???

Distortion will almost always rear its ugly head when you try to get big output while having the master volume control set comparatively low. The solution is to run the master wide open, or nearly so, and set your pre-gain at the middle of it's range (or higher), and then just control your volume with the volume pedal.

Most amps will handle almost a full volt on the input, and no pickup will ever exceed that in normal playing.

Bar crashes excepted.

Dave Mudgett
Member

From: Central Pennsylvania, USA

posted 15 August 2005 09:42 AM     profile     
quote:
If a pickup distorts because of high output, the easy solution is to raise the gains on the amp, and just use less volume pedal. (It's the volume pedal, and not the pickup, that determines how much gain hits the first stage in the amp!)

Are you suggesting one should run the volume pedal continuously well below unity-gain? If so, I would not do that. Why have a hotly-wound pickup, just to be constantly padded by the volume pedal? With traditional strong-magnet pickup design (exempting some of Bill Lawrence's designs), increasing the number of winds increases the inductance significantly, which chokes off high-end. If the extra output contributes to unwanted distortion, I'd rather lower the number of windings than pad the output below unity-gain.

quote:
I've seen some steelers that have the pre-gain set on 5, and the master on 4, and then they complain about distortion from a "hot" pickup when they floor the volume pedal! ... The solution is to run the master wide open, or nearly so, and set your pre-gain at the middle of it's range (or higher), and then just control your volume with the volume pedal.

Absolutely, this is the correct approach on amps with a pre/post(master) gain configuration. It works great on modern solid-state steel amps. But as Bob observes, I find I overdrive old tube amps with high-output pickups, master volume or not. In fact on old Fenders, non-master volume amps are pretty much the same as running the master 'full-on' as you suggest. One solution is to lower the gain of the front preamp tube - for example, use a 12AY7, 12AT7, or 12AU7 - instead of the stock 12AX7 on old Fenders. But that again begs the questions of 'why so many winds' or 'why such high output' when one is seeking a 'vintage-style' tone.

Lee Baucum
Member

From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) - The Final Frontier

posted 15 August 2005 11:51 AM     profile     
Our pickin' brother, Ricky Davis, has mentioned several times on the Forum that he likes to use the thickness of 3 quarters as the starting point for adjusting the distance between the strings and the magnets of a pickup. That's a pretty big gap, but I think it makes a lot of sense, particularly when using a "hot" pickup.

Lee, from South Texas

Jim Peters
Member

From: St. Louis, Missouri, USA

posted 15 August 2005 12:17 PM     profile     
My GFI pickup(GeorgeL humbucking) is hot enough to crush the input stage of my SF Deluxe. It does however work VERY well with my NV112,seems to be a great combination.
Anyone use single coils with a NV112? JP
Donny Hinson
Member

From: Balto., Md. U.S.A.

posted 15 August 2005 01:47 PM     profile     
quote:
Are you suggesting one should run the volume pedal continuously well below unity-gain?

By jove, I think he's got it!

Yes. That's the way we drive a car. We have a "loud pedal" there, too, and normally, we only use a fraction of it's travel. I won't belabor the point, except to say that of course, you can swap tubes, mod the amp, lower the pickup, change the pickup, pick easier, or... just use a little less volume pedal. They all have the same result in the gain department. When you drive an amp to distortion, you're giving it too much signal. Any way you lower the signal eliminates the distortion problem. I prefer the easy way out.

Most times, it's easier just to plow around the stumps than it is to go pullin' em up, diggin' em out, or blastin' em to pieces.

Mark van Allen
Member

From: loganville, Ga. USA

posted 15 August 2005 09:27 PM     profile     
A few years ago I had fairly hot pickups in a Mullen I was playing (705's maybe?) And I loved the tone, but they overdrove the ProFex II I used, even through a Goodrich pot pedal. I just made a little clip on box with a 250K pot that shunted to gound. I found that if I dialed in just the most minimal amount on the pot, it took care of the overload charachteristic perfectly. I always meant to measure the resistance and just put in a resistor, but never got around to it. Nowadays using BL XR16's into Hilton into Wallace Stereo steel, no overloads.

------------------
Stop by the Steel Store at: www.markvanallen.com

Dave Mudgett
Member

From: Central Pennsylvania, USA

posted 16 August 2005 09:30 AM     profile     
quote:
Yes. That's the way we drive a car.

Well, myself, I've been known to put the accelerator pedal-to-the-metal from time to time, and I don't want my car to freak out if I do. If the suspension can't handle the max acceleration, then the car is not designed properly, IMO. As for driving style, I'm originally from Boston, that should explain everything. YMMV.

I see several disadvantages to the 'constant pad below 0dB' approach, the most important I outlined above - overwinding tends to muddy up conventionally designed pickups, IMO. Guitar players went through this 'gotta have hot-wound pickups for more sustain' during the 80s, and yanked out their old Tele pickups and Les Paul PAFs (I can't tell you how many guys traded them even to vintage guitar dealers for DiMarzio Super Distortions, Duncan 1/4 pounders, etc.). But many, if not most of them found in the long haul that they couldn't get the sweet sound they craved. Now, there is a whole industry building things 'like they used to be, to get that cool vintage sound'. Remember, I'm not arguing against high-output pickups completely here - I already agreed that I don't see this problem when used with modern solid-state steel amps. I'm talking specifically about tube amps, as was Bob C. to start.

To me, another disadvantage of always half-pedaling is that the obvious full-on fixed-stop is not going to sound good. On guitar or steel, I normally set things up so that pedal-to-the-metal is my loudest solo volume, and I want it to sound good. Finally, I also prefer to have the full range of the volume pedal to work with.

I agree that half-pedaling or other padding is one viable (though not ideal, to me) solution if one has a pickup that is already overwound - and I do say overwound, since we are arguing about the condition where it doesn't sound good full-on. But like Bob C., I just don't understand why an argument is being made for overwinding.

To the stumps analogy - you're building a house and there's a big tree right in the middle of the spot where you want to pour your basement. Do you get rid of the tree or put a hole in the center of your house, and build around it. Me, unless I want an atrium, I'd cut that tree down, get the stump out of the way, and just pour concrete.

[This message was edited by Dave Mudgett on 16 August 2005 at 09:34 AM.]

John Daugherty
Member

From: Rolla, Missouri, USA

posted 17 August 2005 06:53 AM     profile     
Donny Hinson speaks my language. I see so many posts by players who expect their equipment to do the job for them. Maybe because I have never had a lot of money, I learn to work with what I have. Rich folks tend to buy stuff to do the work for them. Heck, If I was rich, I could just hire the Big "E" to do all my playing for me.
Charlie McDonald
Member

From: Lubbock, Texas, USA

posted 17 August 2005 08:42 AM     profile     
So, anyone: does this mean that for an old tube amp (Danelectro), a 9 ohm pup would conceivably produce more sustain than a highly wound one?
Dave Mudgett
Member

From: Central Pennsylvania, USA

posted 17 August 2005 09:56 AM     profile     
Charlie - you mean 9 KOhm (9000 Ohms, not 9 ohms) I presume.

The answer is no. Most any old Dano tube amp I've played through (mainly for guitar) has a low threshold for distortion. I would not typically use one of these for steel. A high-output pickup will drive it into distortion quickly, which means that the output signal will saturate. When the output is saturated, increasing or decreasing the magnitude of the input doesn't change it. So as the input signal dies down, for quite a while, the output signal continues to have the same magnitude - this is the typical tube amp sustain I described in my first post here.

The problem with this kind of sustain for steel is that if the amp is pushed hard, it sounds distorted. That's great if you're going for a distorted steel sound, but if you want clean, it isn't.

What the lower output pickup does is not drive the amp so hard, making it cleaner-sounding, which is more the 'classic' sound of pedal steel. Bob C. argues in the first post that sustain is a function more of the instrument than the amp. I agree with him if one is not pushing the amp into distortion and not using a sustain-increasing device like a compressor. There's the 'natural' sustain of the guitar, and there's the extension to that sustain by any effects and the amp.

This started as a question of pickup design, not whether or not one should use the equipment they have. For good or for bad, most of my steels also have high-output pickups - that's the way most steel players want them, so that's how most are built. One can make adjustments to work with them, and obviously most of us do. But I agree with Bob that a lower-output pickup usually sounds better with tube amps, to my ears. As I said above, some of Bill Lawrence's pickups are a major exception here.

Why would anyone care? Well, for me, I almost always play guitar and steel together, and I distinctly prefer the sound of tube amps for guitar. For me, this is a practical matter of making my steel sound as good as possible with my tube guitar amps, so I don't have to lug around two amps to gigs.

Another solution to this issue is Brad's Black Box. He uses a low-gain preamp tube (12AU7) which keeps the signal clean while sweetening up the sound going into a solid-state amp. Maybe I'll get one at some point, but I'm trying to cut down the amount of equipment I haul to gigs, and I already have good tube amps.

Bob Carlucci
Member

From: Candor, New York, USA

posted 18 August 2005 03:17 AM     profile     
All else being equal, My Williams would constantly send my otherwise clean Fender amps into fairly heavy overdrive EVEN at low volumes[around 3.}. The Carter NEVER did.. As I stated, my Carter is a coil tap @8K /12K.. I took a reading on the Willy pickup.. aha!.. 21 K!...

I LOVE the sound of the Willy, but its MUCH thicker than the Carter and needs the bass/treble settings adjusted accordingly.

I am thinking of getting the Willy pickup rewound a little less hot , but after lowering the pickup, distortion is no longer a problem.


My Fender 400 is@ 8.5 K...hmmm..
Now,just about everyone has a soft spot for the tone of the old Fender cable jobs... why?.. No magic really.
Same reason ALL the old wood body steels sounded sweet to our ears.
same reason old 6 string guitars sounded great to most of us.... TUBE amps receiving a clean signal from sensibly wound pickups...

Our bud Dave is correct.. guitar mfgs, are now racing one another to get back to the 60's with "retro" pickup designs... they worked.. Back in the late 70's we were falling over one another trying to get hot,hotter hottest pickups into anything with strings... me too...bob

PS , I'm too ashamed to discuss it much here,[email me if you want to hear the sad story] but I ruined one of the rarest guitars Fender ever produced back in the late 70's,with Di Marzio SD pickups... I should be smacked..

David Doggett
Member

From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

posted 18 August 2005 08:31 AM     profile     
Donny's thinking makes sense to me. In the old days lap steels were played and amped like regular guitars - no volume pedal, small tube amps. Once everyone started using a volume pedal for sustain on steel, the signal was automatically cut by half or more. Amps that had adequate power for guitars sounded anemic with steel and volume pedal. More windings were needed in the pickups to get the signal back up where it needed to be. For clean steel sound, getting more sustain with overdriven amp distortion-compression doesn't work, and is not needed. You get the sustain with the volume pedal. It's hard for me to imagine that anyone ever increased pickup windings to get more distortion-sustain on steel.

It doesn't make sense to me to set the amp volume so that you will be playing your solo leads with the volume pedal maxed out. You would then have no volume pedal sustain for your solo, when you most need it. Maybe that would work for fast picking, when there is no time for adding any volume pedal sustain; but I don't see how anyone can count on all solos being so fast. I always feel I need to have reserve pedal throw for sustain, even when playing my loudest. Therefore, my amp is set to play the loudest I will need with my volume pedal about half on, leaving lots of room for sustain. If I ever played with the volume pedal all the way floored, it would blow my speaker and everyone’s eardrums. Having this reserve volume pedal sustain is one reason steelers need such big amps. Maybe this is also why I’ve never noticed my steel overdriving my tube amps (I think the TrueTone on my uni is 18.5 kohms).

I have the treble dialed back on my Hilton volume pedal, and still have to cut back the highs on most amps. So any loss of highs because of extra windings on the pickup doesn’t seem to be of much concern to me. However, loss of definition in the lows is some concern. And since I use tube amps, from what I’ve read above, maybe I should try a pickup with less windings. So cutting back on the windings to get improved tube amp sound might make sense. But cutting back on windings so you can play with the volume pedal floored doesn’t make sense to me. Forgive me, but that sounds like a guitar player not using appropriate pedal steel technique.

So I think the modern hot steel pickups came in to compensate for the loss of signal with the volume pedal. I think it may have been coincidental that they also sounded better with the solid state amps that came in about the same time or soon after. When people talk about the great sound of the older pickups with less windings, are they referring to the old lap steels? Those are just completely different animals in many ways, and were mostly played without volume pedals (although many players were beginning to use volume pedals with them right before pedal steel came in). While the Fender cable pedal steels do have a distinctive low-wound pickup sound, I don’t think most steelers would be happy with that sound from their modern pedal steel.

Bob Carlucci
Member

From: Candor, New York, USA

posted 18 August 2005 10:15 AM     profile     
David.. I STRIVE for that old Fender sound and am happy when I get it!!!.. However I do admit to being somwehat of a dinosaur:}.. The sound is just as fresh today as it ever was.... Very few guys use it these days, but it sure works for me... I LIKE my sound!. The big, massive,powerful tone I hear so many great players use just doesn't work for my retro, simple,"Bakersfield wannabee" style!... bob

[This message was edited by Bob Carlucci on 21 August 2005 at 06:03 AM.]

Dave Mudgett
Member

From: Central Pennsylvania, USA

posted 18 August 2005 12:45 PM     profile     
quote:
You get the sustain with the volume pedal.

I see your point about sometimes wanting extra signal level for sustain as a note trails off, especially on a slow tune, and sometimes also use this technique. My preferred solution, using a tube amp, is to increase the gain/volume in the amp or effects, and not overwind the pickup.

On old amps with fixed gain and no effects, I agree with you that options to increase the gain were limited. But why is a hot pickup needed on an amp with variable gain, as almost all modern design amps have? Just raise the amp gain, get instant room on the volume pedal. I think the bigger issue here is that modern solid-state amps are designed around the hotter-wound pickups. I don't like the sound of lighter-wound pickups through these amps either. Maybe some guys like their Tele through a Session 400, etc., but nobody I play with would tolerate that.

quote:
But cutting back on windings so you can play with the volume pedal floored doesn't make sense to me.

I didn't argue for playing with the volume pedal floored all, or even most, of the time. But on a faster/louder tune, I prefer to have the volume pedal set to my max useful volume, so I don't accidentally blow anyone away in the heat of battle. My bandmates appreciate a hard-limiter on the louder tunes. The point is that I want to choose how to set it, and not have it forced on me by circumstance.

quote:
Forgive me, but that sounds like a guitar player not using appropriate pedal steel technique.

As I said, I often play both guitar and steel at the same time, and need to make it work for both. I also was not aware that there was such a strict orthodoxy in technique. Now, I admit, I've played steel for only a few years, and I don't claim to 'know it all', not by a long shot. I'm listening carefully here for new ideas.

quote:
So cutting back on the windings to get improved tube amp sound might make sense.

Well, these old tube amps were designed around a more lightly wound, lower-output pickup, but this is strictly a matter of personal taste. I prefer it, but that doesn't make it "correct".

But remember, in my application, I'm specifically trying to make this work with my lighter-wound guitar pickups, through the same tube amp. These are usually Teles or Strats (pickups wound to around 6.5-7 KOhm with a narrow aperture), or jazzy tones from a Gibson Humbucker (wound to around 7.8 KOhms with a wider aperture). Both of these are quite a bit lower-output than the typical PSG pickup, and both sound great for their given purpose through an old Fender tube amp, to my tastes.

With most of my hotly-wound steel pickups, I currently either need to bring separate amps for guitar and steel, or use something like a Pod, which effectively gives me different amp models and EQ settings at the touch of a button. It's not just the pickup output, but the overall tone. Amps also have a 'voice', and need to be matched to the 'voice' of the pickup.

I'd prefer to just be able to plug guitar and steel straight into a Dual Showman Reverb + JBL D/K-130 cab for a louder gig, or a tricked-out Deluxe Reverb with an EV SRO for a low-volume gig, and have everything sound fine. Except for my BMI with a Lawrence 705, they sound muddy no matter what I do. With the 705, I needed to lower the pickup, as Ricky Davis suggests, but it sounds clean and clear. My Sierras have 3-way Danny Shields pickups, and the light setting helps, but is still drives the tube amps too hard and doesn't have as much clarity as I'd like. I can tweak any of these amps to sound good for guitar but not steel, or vice versa. This is Hobson's choice, and I think it's possible to do better.

quote:
... any loss of highs because of extra windings on the pickup doesn't seem to be of much concern to me. However, loss of definition in the lows is some concern.

I agree that high end is not the issue for me either. High end is easy to come by, and steel guitar can get shrill easily, but it's the overall frequency response and "Q" factor that I'm talking about. With traditional pickup design, overwinding affects both high and low end clarity adversely, to my ears.

quote:
It's hard for me to imagine that anyone ever increased pickup windings to get more distortion-sustain on steel.

I don't think anybody has argued that here (except perhaps for blues and rock playing). We all agree that pushing an amp into distortion is not desirable for the clean steel sounds most of us want. I argued above that a higher signal level, produced by high-output pickups, pushes solid-state amps into their compressor/limiter region, which does increase sustain without harmonic distortion. I don't really know if that's the reason for the pickup change, but it did seem to occur around the time most people switched from tube to solid-state amps.

quote:
I don't think most steelers would be happy with that sound from their modern pedal steel.

I entirely agree that there are many ways to approach this design problem. I like my Session 500 just fine with hot steel pickups, but not guitar. I'm not against any other approach, this is highly personal. Perhaps most steelers wouldn't be happy with the Fender 400 sound. Myself, I like the Fender sound (but not mechanics) for many things. I think Bob has a good idea here. If I can just find someone to make me up a somewhat lower-output, coil-tapped pickup for my S-14U, I think I'd use it a lot more.

David Doggett
Member

From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

posted 18 August 2005 04:29 PM     profile     
Fair enough, Dave. I didn't mean to imply any incompetency in your volume pedal use, or that there is only one "correct" way to use the volume pedal with steel. But I think we do have an honest difference of opinion on, let's call it the optimum, way to use a volume pedal with steel. If I am bumping the end of my pedal throw, I consider that my amp is not turned up loud enough. If I were to use the maximum pedal stop as a limiter, I would feel my sustain was being unnecessarily and artificially limited. It is true that with my method, if I accidentally pick a note or chord with the pedal down too far, something might blow - and the rest of the band might throw me off the stage. But hey, life is dangerous.

It is also true that for up tempo play many players leave the pedal at one postition, and just use it to regulate the volume level, not for sustain. In fact some players do that to intentionally mimic the traditional slide guitar sound for rock and blues. But I want to be able to add that volume pedal sustain at will. For me that is one of the added features of steel that transcends typical slide guitar.

Of course fine control of the volume pedal is one of the most difficult aspects of steel tone, and I am still struggling with it. The louder the band is, the more difficult volume pedal control seems to become, because the acceptable volume range between "lost in the mix" and "painfully too loud" becomes narrower.

Also, I only play steel, and don't try to play a regular guitar through the same amp. If I did, I would want separate channels (or separate POD presets), so I could have separate EQ, gain and volume settings. Ideally one would have a separate smaller tube amp for regular guitar, maybe a Vibrolux or Hot Rod Deluxe. That would also allow you to use 10s for the guitar and a 15 for steel. With one amp for both, maybe 12s would be a good compromise. Then I'd want a speaker output attenuator to use with regular guitar, or a POD simulation of a small driven tube amp. Trying to match the pickup output of steel and regular guitar would be a last resort - they are just such different animals.

Dave Mudgett
Member

From: Central Pennsylvania, USA

posted 18 August 2005 07:57 PM     profile     
No offense taken, David. The only way I'm going to learn anything is to just belly up and state my opinion. If someone can show me a better way, I consider that a favor. I've thought about these things a lot, but I definitely don't have any 'final answers'.

Volume pedal technique is definitely very subtle. I have used one for guitar for a long time, and before that, I used the volume knob in a similar way. Of course, guitar and steel are different, but it's not night and day. It's always a challenge to make it sound just right on a slow, sensitive tune. But for me, most of this subtlety is lost in loud, uptempo stuff.

You're right, in a loud band, there's a very thin edge between "lost in the mix" and "painfully loud". Especially on blues, rockabilly, or country guitar solos, I'm not known for being bashful, particularly as the night wears on and the band/crowd energy level increases. So on the loud, uptempo stuff, my volume pedal is a useful 'reminder' for those moments when my better judgement also gets "lost in the mix". This approach has probably kept me from getting fired more than once.

I don't really mind taking some 'heavy artillery' for a big show on a big stage. But especially for small club gigs, it seems to me that there oughta be a way to simplify and still get the tone I want across the board. Right now, for this kind of gig, I switch sounds with a Pod into a 50 watt clean bass amp with a 12" speaker. This works OK in a live club mix, and I think most of my colleagues even prefer the slightly less crisp tone this gives. But for myself, I still prefer the straight sound plugged straight into the right amp. Some recent recordings highlighted this difference to me yet again.

So I'm gonna continue to try to figure this out. I'm an electrical engineer by training, and am willing to yutz around a bit to figure out a way to do the things I want. I'm not 'rich', but I think I'm flush enough to invest in a few hand-wound pickups with coil taps.

Billy Carr
Member

From: Seminary, Mississippi USA

posted 21 August 2005 02:15 AM     profile     
This is just my own opinion here but on the topic of hot pick ups, I like to look at other areas around a hot pick up. Starting with the volume pedal. Is it a pot or light(beam) pedal. I've just switched from a pot pedal to a LDR pedal. Big difference. Cleaner with more high end. Cords. I like the George L cords that Jeff Newman used to talk about. Properly set delay also. A good steel amp. I either use a FSK or NV-1000. I've had to turn the highs down and the lows up since switching volume pedals. I usually don't play past the half a pedal position on my volume pedal. I try to keep good strings on each of my guitars by changing them about once a month. Finally, to me the most important part of working with a hot p/u is the right hand technique. The pick ups made today are so far advanced over the old ones until you can get about anything you want. Personally, I don't care to invest 2000.00 to 5000.00 in a guitar and have a problem with a p/u such as a hum that a lot of single coils produce. That's why when I look at a guitar, the first thing I look at is what kind of p/u does it have? Whether it's hot, bright or somewhere in between doesn't bother me as long as it's quiet when I mash the volume pedal down w/o playing. Some players won't use anything else but a single coil and that's fine. I did for years until I found the George L's.
Jon Zimmerman
Member

From: California, USA

posted 21 August 2005 11:16 AM     profile     
More of the best from the brightest. I am all 'ears' for informed preferences, having heard much the same via Gerald Weber, Ken Fisher, Aspen Pittman, even David Zimmerman (no relation), who mostly agree that the more 'devices' appearing in a signal chain, the less 'bloom' in tone and dynamics comes out on the business-end. Unintended filtering/leakage results in more tweaking of control stages, operating ranges, etc. --suddenly, fidelity starts to suffer overall, as critical values go 'off scale', out of balance.
A nearly century-old dilemma--how do you best transfer physical energy in thru wires/tracers to the paper cone, without smokin' up everything in-between?
Ernest Cawby
Member

From: Lake City, Florida, USA

posted 21 August 2005 04:52 PM     profile     
If you want sustain BUY A SHOBUD, I can hit a note on my Professional go to the bathroom, come back and it is still ringing.
Who disagrees with that, I will send you a file to here it.

ernie

David Doggett
Member

From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

posted 21 August 2005 08:34 PM     profile     
Well, in terms of sustain, I'd rank my guitars, all with TrueTone pickups, Emmons push/pull first, then Zum, then Sho-Bud Pro III a close 3rd. Now maybe with John Coops new roller bearing steel changers, the Sho-Bud would match the Zum. But, then, is it really a Sho-Bud? I love the Sho-Buds for their looks and nostagic value - but tone, sustain, and mechanics, um...not always the best.

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