|
Author
|
Topic: Wood for Speaker Cabinet
|
Tom Gorr
Member From: Three Hills, Alberta
|
posted 05 November 2005 06:14 PM
profile
Black tolex and brush aluminum verticals just doesn't do it for me anymore. Gag.I'm going to build my own speaker cabinets to look good in my living room (eg. my music room...) Is there much science behind wood selection for the cabinets, or should I just buy a wood that looks great ?
[This message was edited by Tom Gorr on 05 November 2005 at 06:20 PM.] |
Darvin Willhoite
Member From: Leander, Tx. USA
|
posted 05 November 2005 06:56 PM
profile
I like different looking amp cabs too. Here's a picture of one I built using clear white pine. It finished out really nice. I got the cane grille idea from Mesa Boogie of course. I will start a similar one soon for my old Session 400. I realize the pine is pretty soft but I never take them out of the studio. The picture shows a Pacer in the cabinet, but it now has a Special 150 in it. Peavey made several amps with the same chassis size that will fit in this cabinet.  ------------------
Darvin Willhoite
Riva Ridge Recording
|
Jay Ganz
Member From: Out Behind The Barn
|
posted 05 November 2005 07:28 PM
profile
Oh yeah....that came out nice! The best thing about pine is it's lightweight. Great job on the dovetail joints also. I've always wanted
to know how to do that! |
Ricky Davis
Moderator From: Spring, Texas USA
|
posted 05 November 2005 09:14 PM
profile
I absolutely LOVE Pine for speaker cabinets; for Tone(don't care how it looks...ha).
Ricky |
Rich Young
Member From: Austin, TX, USA
|
posted 07 November 2005 11:57 AM
profile
Pine.
You are supposed to use void free southern yellow pine, but I just go to home depot and buy the better, clear pine - no knot holes.
I've built a bunch of cabinets. I did a kit tweed deluxe recently, made the cab to the same specs as the originals, out of home depot pine. Worked great.
By the way, I don't have a dovetail tool. I've always just used wood glue and 3 long screws on each corner, butt joined. Not as pretty, but it works. I have cabs I dragged around for years made that way, and they never had a problem. Dovetail is better looking and stronger, but - hey it works. |
Jack Stoner
Sysop From: Inverness, Florida
|
posted 07 November 2005 01:14 PM
profile
Several years ago (probably many  ) I read an article on speaker building (for home stereo systems) and it said that cabinet makers grade particle board (not the cheap stuff you get at Home Depot) was the desired material for speaker cabinets. I suppose it's because of the density of the material.However, I've built several speakers with Pine and even some with Plywood. The Plywood with inside braces seems to be just as good. I got the bracing from a JBL speaker manual, on line. The bracing adds rigidity to the plywood. |
Andy Zynda
Member From: Wisconsin
|
posted 07 November 2005 01:37 PM
profile
The reason for particle board, in stereo cabs (HiFi audio reproduction) is that the weight and high density doesn't color the sound. (much)
In full range sound reproduction, this is very important.
In Guitar amps, pine resonates at frequencies that enhance the audio spectrum that electric guitars live in.
Pine sounds right.
Looks good too.
-andy- |
Justin Griffith
Member From: Taylor, Texas, USA
|
posted 07 November 2005 02:32 PM
profile
Jerry Harkins made a beautiful cabnet for his Evans. Maybe if he reads this he will post a pic.------------------
Justin Griffith
D-10 Blanton 8X4, Gooodrich L-10K, Matchbox, Small cab. Session 500, Evans FET 500LV And new Walker seat
|
Tim Bridges
Member From: Hoover, Alabama, USA
|
posted 07 November 2005 06:40 PM
profile
Check these out! www.tonemarkspeakers.com |
Roger Crawford
Member From: Locust Grove, GA USA
|
posted 08 November 2005 07:26 AM
profile
Does the cover material affect the tone? Tolex vs carpet material vs none at all? |
Bill Myers
Member From: Camp Hill, Pennsylvania, USA
|
posted 08 November 2005 04:41 PM
profile
If you've ever re-tolexed an old fender amp....one of the secrets of the way those old twins and deluxes sound....you guessed it white pine! There is something about the sound of a pine cabinet. The tolex doesn't seem to make much difference in tone...but make mine pine!------------------
2003 Carter D10, 9x5 Black and 1998 Carter D10 9x5, Evans Amp
[This message was edited by Bill Myers on 08 November 2005 at 04:41 PM.]
|
James Quackenbush
Member From: Pomona, New York, USA
|
posted 08 November 2005 05:14 PM
profile
Clear Pine work's very well .....Using Dovetail joint's makes for a nice tight cabinet .....Install the baffle so it's attached at only 2 side's, leaving the other 2 sides to move freely ...Leave only a small space (1/16 of an inch ) on each of the sides that are not attached ....It gives the baffle more room to move, and gives a nice resonance to the cabinet ....The dryer the Pine is , the better ......Also use 3/8 ply for the baffle....Thicker baffles may be more rigid, and stronger, but ridgid is not what your looking for ....Pine is very soft , and will dent easy, but for home use , you should have no problem....Like mentioned earlier , Fender used Pine in a LOT of their cab's ....That's part of what gives the older Fenders a " woody " tone to them .....You can't argue with success..
Jim |
Tom Gorr
Member From: Three Hills, Alberta
|
posted 08 November 2005 06:39 PM
profile
Thanks Guys! Very interesting about the properties of pine.My living room is 100% cedar log...Would clear cedar have similar richness as pine ? After all - my living room sounds great - Carnegie Hall begs by comparison....[This message was edited by Tom Gorr on 08 November 2005 at 06:41 PM.] |
James Quackenbush
Member From: Pomona, New York, USA
|
posted 11 November 2005 09:19 AM
profile
Tom,
Cedar ? ....Good question .....It's expensive to use, so it hasn't been used that I know of ...I would imagine that it has very similar characteristic's to Pine ....Make sure you have clear wood...Knot's can rattle when loosened up !!.....Jim |
David Spangler
Member From: Kerrville, TX USA
|
posted 11 November 2005 09:54 AM
profile
Lots of good suggestions here. Cedar looks nice but is very soft and resonant. An alternative to clear pine is poplar. It's a little prettier, harder and priced in line with pine. An industry standard is birch plywood. You can apply edge banding to hide the plys and end up with a nice cab. Red oak is beautiful but expensive and heavy. ------------------
David Spangler |
Jim Sliff
Member From: Hermosa Beach California, USA
|
posted 11 November 2005 10:25 AM
profile
Birch Ply and pine are fairly standard - I think cedar is far too soft and would be worried about joints and screw seating. Poplar is OK I suppose, but pine has a nice resonance.Note that there is a LOT to cabinet desigtn - you don't just build a box any size and bolt speakers to it. Closed back, open back, partial, baffles, seperated chambers - you'll find reams of info about acoustic properties for specific types of speakers and corresponding cabinet size. Simply, you can take a great speaker, put it in a nice-looking wood cabinet and it can sound like junk unless the cabinet is acoustically correct. |
The Steel Guitar Forum
