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Topic: Ernie Ball/Dunlop Bars.. No Good??
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Bob Carlucci Member From: Candor, New York, USA
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posted 15 January 2004 03:43 PM
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Most guys here are using BJS or other "premium priced" tone bars... Is there really that much difference ya'think??. I mean,you would think stainless is stainless,chrome is chrome etc.etc. I am somewhat of a cheap tightwad and would hate to spend $70 for a bar when a $20 one would do as well .. Is there a big difference in feel/smoothness???? bob |
basilh Member From: United Kingdom
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posted 15 January 2004 03:53 PM
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Bob... if you try the John Pearse Thermo-Cryonic tone bar you would hear the difference.... chalk and cheese !! Cheap, usually is just that. Baz www.waikiki-islanders.com ------------------ quote: Steel players do it without fretting
http://www.waikiki-islanders.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
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Bob Knight Member From: Bowling Green KY
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posted 15 January 2004 04:01 PM
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Bob, Baz is right the John Pearse bar is the ultimate, also they stand behind their products. I bought one of the most popular high end bars a few years back and had problems with the plating, the dealer refused to do anything and the manufactuer completely ignored the situation. Needless to say I don't do business with either of them anymore.Bob [This message was edited by Bob Knight on 15 January 2004 at 04:02 PM.] |
Larry Robbins Member From: Fort Edward, New York, USA
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posted 15 January 2004 04:22 PM
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I dont know about other folks but,I didnt' see all that much (if any)diference in the hi priced spread.I use the plain ol cheapo 7/8 Dunlop chrome bar and Ill bet a whole lot of other folks do also.Im NOT takeing anything away from the other bars,and I know everyone has their favorites.I just never found enough of a difference to warrent the price.I say try one.If you dont like it your only out 20 bucks!You can always sell it on the forum.Heck.....I might even buy it ! Got three Dunlops,whats one more?ha,ha!! Let us know how you make out.------------------ Sho-Bud ProII "there's been an awful murder, down on music row!" |
Travis Bernhardt Member From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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posted 15 January 2004 04:46 PM
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The difference between a cheap Stevens bar and a proper sized bullet bar on pedal steel is huge. The differences between comparable bullet bars are probably less so, but I'd dare say still observable. The only two I've compared in a quiet enough environment are are the Ernie Ball and a John Pearse Cryo, and I found the Pearse to be a little brighter. Not a HUGE difference. If you like a darker sound, you may prefer the cheaper one... As far as tightwaddishness, why not try one of the "Bullet Bars?" They're only $25--since that includes shipping it works out to only a dollar more than ordering an Ernie Ball--and they've been getting good reviews from people here. Half the price of a Cryo and a third the price of a BJS... -Travis |
Rex Thomas Member From: Thompson's Station, TN
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posted 15 January 2004 05:09 PM
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Allow me: http://www.bulletbars.com/ |
Rick McDuffie Member From: Smithfield, North Carolina, USA
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posted 15 January 2004 05:54 PM
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I have real questions as to whether there's any difference.Rick |
Patrick Carlson Member From: Sutton, Nebraska, USA
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posted 15 January 2004 07:30 PM
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I can hear a difference from my new BJS bar, compared to my old economy bar.The cheap bar started pealing apart after a little more than a years usage. Needed to be replaced.
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Eric West Member From: Portland, Oregon, USA
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posted 15 January 2004 08:03 PM
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Bob Here's another way to look at it.I have the same 25$ "home made" bars for 24 years. ( They ARE really good bars..) I've played a couple thousand gigs with them easy. Refinished them more than a couple times. It wasn't til recently that I bought a new dense coating SS Bullseye Bar. ( check accolades ) Now I have one less thing to blame for "sloppy playing".. No reason anything this side of a deep well 5/8 socket won't work. Treat yourself well. You're a good person dog gone ya.. EJL
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David Cobb Member From: Chanute, Kansas, USA
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posted 16 January 2004 07:25 AM
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I'm not a bar guru but my old stainless bar had a lot of drag on the strings, it was actually tiring. My BJS chromed bar is a breeze by comparison. You might have a particular bar for a long time, treat yourself to something nice.[This message was edited by David Cobb on 16 January 2004 at 07:27 AM.] |
Bill Hatcher Member From: Atlanta Ga. USA
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posted 16 January 2004 07:38 AM
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I saw R. Randolph on TV the other night and it looked like he was using one of those cheap Stevens bluntnose bars---hmmmmmmm. |
Tommy M Member From: Indiana
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posted 16 January 2004 08:13 AM
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www.bullseyebars.com You can feel and hear the difference with these bars. ------------------ Tommy Minniear www.ntsga.com
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Rick Aiello Member From: Berryville, VA USA
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posted 16 January 2004 08:58 AM
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quote: I mean,you would think stainless is stainless,chrome is chrome etc.etc
Actually, there are many different types of stainless steel ... and within each series are multiple grades. Some Stainless Grades For example, Pearse bars are made of 440 stainless, heat treated (hardened), then cryo treated ... Extremely high quality. Same goes for Chrome plating ... Hard Chromium Plating, refers to the process of electrodepositing a thick layer (0.2 mils to 30 mils or more) of chromium. Hardness, wearability, corrosion resistance and lubricity (low coefficient of friction) are the hallmarks of hard chrome. BJS bars are hardened (heat treated) steel which is then hard chromed. Again ... extremely high quality. Decorative Chromium Plating refers to a different process, whereby a thin layer (sometimes 50 millionths of an inch) of chromium is deposited for appearance or non-tarnishing purposes. Black Chromium is a specialty chromium coating, which has a black color instead of the usual silver color. It is used in solar panels and for aesthetic reasons. The "big gun" of chrome plating is Thin Dense Chromium. TDC is the premium coating on the Bullseye bars. Many companies offer TDC ... I had 3 Jim Burden stainless bars done a few years ago by Meadville and I have a Bullseye .... Outstanding quality. Hope this helps ... ------------------ www.horseshoemagnets.com [This message was edited by Rick Aiello on 16 January 2004 at 09:14 AM.] |
Ben Slaughter Member From: Madera, California
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posted 16 January 2004 09:16 AM
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The only bar I have is an Earnie Ball. I seem to get a lot of noise on slides, and after reading this thread, I'm wondering if the bar isn't part of the problem.Also, I think it's a 7/8, and I get cramps in my hand sometimes. I am considering an upgrade to something higher quality and a little larger size. ------------------ Ben Zum D10, NV400, POD, G&L Guitars, etc, etc. |
Brad Bechtel Moderator From: San Francisco, CA
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posted 16 January 2004 09:34 AM
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There is definitely a difference between the Ernie Ball and Dunlop tone bars and better tone bars such as the John Pearse or Bullet Bar bars. I didn't believe it until I got a Pearse bar; now I do.------------------ Brad's Page of Steel A web site devoted to acoustic & electric lap steel guitars |
Jim Smith Member From: Plano, TX, USA
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posted 16 January 2004 09:39 AM
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I like the John Pearse bar I have, except that the butt edge is not rounded at all and sometimes catches on the strings when I pull it back. Does anyone else have this problem and do they all have this sharp edge? I'm not averse to filing a radius on it, but I doubt that I could get it polished very smooth with the limited hand tools I have at home. |
Erv Niehaus Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
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posted 16 January 2004 09:47 AM
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Jim, I just received a Bullet bar and Jim puts a little radius on the butt end of his bars. It eliminates catching the string a sending it out in the audience like an arrow. At $25 a pop, his bars can't be beat! I've never seen a SS bar sooooooo smooth! Erv |
Eric West Member From: Portland, Oregon, USA
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posted 16 January 2004 10:59 AM
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Tommmy M.Usually with my old high quality stainless bars I can't feel much string drag. Heck I've used them for 24 years. Last night I was going over that specific B/C pedals down going two frets down and playing the 543 string combination. Without looking very hard, I thought I was feeling a lot more "string drag' than I ought to. Usually I don't feel it at all. THEN I realized I was using my regular SS "old bar". I changed to the Bullseye, and felt NONE. Honestly, I wish I'd have changed to this years ago, as this coating process has been around in oil field and military applications for years. How long it will take to "wear throught it"? I dunno. According to the test and spec sheets, a LOT longer than "chrome plating". It seems to handle sandy high velicity/pressure oil through valves and use in high speed helicopter rotor bearings better than anything they've found so far. I'll certainly post it when mine shows wear. It hasn't in 6 months of hard playing. EJL |
Rex Thomas Member From: Thompson's Station, TN
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posted 16 January 2004 12:29 PM
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Erv;
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Lee Baucum Member From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) - The Final Frontier
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posted 16 January 2004 02:41 PM
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Here is a good thread. Pay particular attention to Bobbe's comments.Click Here ------------------ Lee, from South Texas Down On The Rio Grande |
Jody Carver Member From: The Knight Of Fender Tweed~ Dodger Blue Forever
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posted 16 January 2004 03:00 PM
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.[This message was edited by Jody Carver on 16 January 2004 at 07:18 PM.] |
John Drury Member From: Gallatin, Tn USA
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posted 16 January 2004 03:47 PM
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Bob,Listen to basilh and Bob Knight, those John Pearse bars are the way to go. You might also check out the link from Lee Baucum about Bobbe Seymours theory on dis-similar metals, Seymour knows what the hell he is talking about when it comes to bars and strings. I am currently using a Pearse Thermo-Cryonic bar and the Ernie Ball strings that came with my new Carter and I am as happy as a Pizmo Clam. The Pearse bar is stainless and the E.B.'s I am guessing are nickel. John Drury NTSGA #3 |
Jeff A. Smith Member From: Angola,Ind. U.S.A.
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posted 16 January 2004 05:21 PM
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I like the Pearse high-quality stainless bar for C6, which I'm just learning. I like the BJS 7/8" chrome for E9.The Pearse is a bit shorter and lighter than the BJS, and warmer sounding. I also have larger BJS bars, a 15/16" and a 1". All three sizes of BJS have different tones. I could probably get rid of the two bigger ones now and not miss them, although the 15/16" may prove useful in the future. Like I said in the thread Lee Baucum linked to, I had just purchased a 1" Dunlop stainless bar, and my opinion of it is that it would make a good weapon. The grade of stainless is just too soft. I also have a Dunlop 7/8" chrome, that came with my first steel. It's okay, but a high-quality bar actually adds something to the tone. Jim, if you mean that your Pearse bar literally has no bevel on the butt end, there may be a problem; at least I can say that the bevel on mine is comparable to my other bars.
However, I should mention something that happened when I bought my Pearse bar several months ago: I had to special order it through a store that doesn't do much business with Pearse, that never handled any of their bars before. The store went ahead and ordered an extra one to have on hand for future sale. When the bars arrived, I tried them both out and found that they both had a small ridge all around the bar, right where the nose joins the cylinder. Because the ridge was on both bars, and was fairly regular, I thought that might be normal, perhaps something to do with the mysterious cryonic treatment. So, I took one of the bars and tried it for a night, only to find that the ridge caught slightly on the high strings. I decided I couldn't live with that without at least calling the company, which my dealer did the next day. The lady at Pearse said the ridges were definitely not normal and offered to take the bars back. It turned out that the entire batch of bars they had on hand were flawed in the same way, so I had to wait until they got a new batch. Bottom line is that they corrected the problem without complaint, but I feel like I should at least mention the problem, in case someone else runs into the same thing with a Pearse bar. I saw Bobbe Seymour play close-up several months ago and, believe it or not, he was just using a 7/8" Dunlop bar. (I'm pretty sure it was chrome.) If you read the linked thread, you'll see that he's more concerned about how the bar and string materials match up than about which chrome bar to use. Maybe since he has a primo push-pull, he doesn't worry too much about the differences between chrome bars. Maybe he prefers the Dunlop's smaller size and weight. Or, maybe he hasn't really spent much time with a BJS yet. I suppose that's possible. He also was just using a little Boss delay pedal for effects, into a Peavey amp. In a way, that was most interesting, since I was basically just hearing Bobbe and the Emmons guitar. Not something I'll soon forget. [This message was edited by Jeff A. Smith on 16 January 2004 at 05:42 PM.] [This message was edited by Jeff A. Smith on 16 January 2004 at 05:47 PM.] [This message was edited by Jeff A. Smith on 16 January 2004 at 05:56 PM.]
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Kevin Hatton Member From: Amherst, N.Y.
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posted 16 January 2004 08:19 PM
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This is interesting because I played a Pierce bar for years and switched to a BJS which I love. There is definitely a big difference between cheaper and more expensive bars. |
Bill Llewellyn Member From: San Jose, CA
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posted 16 January 2004 08:41 PM
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I long for the zirconia bars to go back into production. (Though I love my BJS.) ------------------ Bill, steelin' since '99 | Steel page | My music | Steelers' birthdays | Over 50? |
Tracy Sheehan Member From: Fort Worth, Texas, USA
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posted 16 January 2004 08:50 PM
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I still use a Sho Bod bar i bought in Fla,in 1968.Has sho bud stamped on end of bar.Must have playd a jillion jobs with it and it is still good.tracy |