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[This message was edited by Scotty Wenzel on 23 May 2004 at 06:55 AM.]

And replacing the pot in one of these puppies is among the more challenging tasks I've encountered in the world of steel guitar maintenance. An RPITA.

Go with the Goodrich, which is the standard of the industry in pot pedals, or the Emmons/Derby type, if you like the pedalrack mounting system. The Goodrich has a pedalrack mounting bracket as well, but it's a heavier and bulkier pedal than the Emmons/Derby type.

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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
Texas Steel Guitar Association

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In 1978 and '79 I was manager of the volume pedal shop in San Luis Obispo. I did all of the machine work, wiring and final assembly of all volume pedals made during this period.

The pedals were designed by a fellow named Ron Saul, who has since retired from EB. He consulted with many southern California steel players during the initial design period. Keep in mind that Ernie was a steel player(Bobbe Seymour told me that he has sold Ernie's old Bigsby 3 times).

Originaly the pedal had input/output jacks on the side, and used an AB 500k ohm pot. It had a taper control (which some people mistakenly refer to as a tone control). This control was not in the active signal path, but provided a variable resistance to ground for the AB pot, thereby changing the volume taper.

I have 3 of these left over from my days working at EB, and they are the only volume pedal I use. Since I have short stumpy legs the height of the pedals is not an issue. The only reason I would buy another pedal is to get one with active electronics, such as a Hilton or Goodrich.

To my mind the EB volume pedals have one advantage over other brands (which I have spoken of in other forums). That is, because the foot-plate itself is so light, if you take your foot off the pedal, it stays where you put it. In my experience other pedals tend to creep one-way or the other.

I agree that the newer pedals, with the jacks on the front, and 250k ohm pots, seem to be better suited for guitar players. The jacks seem to be set up for pedal-board use, rather than steel guitar purposes. I also agree that other brands would be a better choice at this time.

edited for splelling

[This message was edited by Gary Jones on 24 May 2004 at 08:37 AM.]

It seems to have a larger angle of rotation, ie not so touchy or more foot movement for a given volume change.

Here's a trick to that may help changing the string. I take the screws out of the pot bracket, get the new string wound, and then get the bracket back in position, put the screws back in.