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Author
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Topic: How do you buff/polish a bar?
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Doug Ferguson
Member From: Burnet, Texas, USA
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posted 27 July 2004 12:11 PM
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I've seen mention on here several times that someone buffed or polished their bar. I've got one I bought in 1991 that I have used since I started playing that has some "rusty" patches on it. Can it be polished or should I just pick up a new one?------------------
Fergy, MSA Classic D12 |
Ray Minich
Member From: Limestone, New York, USA
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posted 27 July 2004 12:36 PM
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Find someone or someplace with a buffing wheel and some compound. Any reputable machine shop should have one. A typical buffing wheel looks like a 2 inch to 3 inch stack of cloth table napkins sewn together then cut into a circle (like a big cloth grinding wheel). The compound comes in can or in a stick.Wear dem safety glasses else you could end up seeing things funny. CASE Knives is just across town as is the Zippo factory. We do a lot of buffing in this town. |
Joe Yednasty
Member From: Southwestern CT
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posted 27 July 2004 01:18 PM
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Brasso is also another way to polish metal. You could buy it at Home Depot and it comes in a little can. It might leave the bar a little slippery though. If you try it, let me know how it works.------------------
"Eskimo" Joe Yednasty
70s Emmons S-10 (3X4) |
Nicholas Dedring
Member From: Brooklyn, New York, USA
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posted 27 July 2004 01:47 PM
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Is this a chrome bar, or a solid stainless one? If it's chrome, depending on the "rust", it might just be chrome wearing out. Happened with a Dunlop bar I used to have... looked sort of tarnished, but it was really just wearing through.I don't know if chrome gets polished the same way, since it's a real thin layer, you might have to worry about wearing it through with the wrong compound. |
Doug Ferguson
Member From: Burnet, Texas, USA
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posted 27 July 2004 02:09 PM
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I don't know what it is. Been too long. I've always thought it was stainless but I just don't know. For years, I've just rolled the bar to where the ugly is on top. I'd be lying if I told you what diameter and how long it is. I just know I'm pretty used to it and it fits my hand...Wish it wouldn't rot. The worst that could happen is that I ruin it trying to polish it and have to get another one, I guess.------------------
Fergy, MSA Classic D12 |
Lee Baucum
Member From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) - The Final Frontier
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posted 27 July 2004 03:05 PM
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Fergy - Order yourself a BJS bar and don't try to revive that old one. You'll love it.I see you live in "It's Burnet, Durnit! Can't Ya Learnit!" Does the old train still stop there? ------------------
Lee, from South Texas
Down On The Rio Grande |
Jim West
Member From: Vista,CA
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posted 27 July 2004 06:40 PM
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Spin it in a lathe and polish it with a maroon Scotch Brite pad. |
Darvin Willhoite
Member From: Leander, Tx. USA
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posted 27 July 2004 07:04 PM
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Hey Doug, I'm just down the road from you between Leander and Seward Junction. I have a lathe and polishing stuff, I can probably help you. Send me an email and maybe we can get together.------------------
Darvin Willhoite
Riva Ridge Recording
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chas smith
Member From: Encino, CA, USA
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posted 27 July 2004 07:32 PM
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Hard cloth wheel, 1750 rpm, emery cake, followed by tripoli, followed by rouge. |
Doug Ferguson
Member From: Burnet, Texas, USA
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posted 28 July 2004 06:12 AM
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Last time I saw the train, the old steam engine had been replaced by a diesel. I guess it still runs. Thanks everyone for all the ideas!------------------
Fergy, MSA Classic D12 |
Erv Niehaus
Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
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posted 28 July 2004 06:50 AM
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Doug,
If your bar is showing rust spots, I think the chrome is worn through. Time for a new bar.
Erv |
Lincoln Goertzen
Member From: Rose Prairie, British Columbia, Canada
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posted 29 July 2004 09:27 PM
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These are great ideas. You can't wreck your bar by trying them, because it already has "rust" spots.Just a caution: I would be rather carefull about the lathe idea, because my dad's first bar was made on a lathe, and didn't seem to be perfectly flat on the strings. His strings used to buzz fit to drive him over the edge. Now he and I both use 1' BJS bars. We both love them. Lincoln Goertzen |
Doug Ferguson
Member From: Burnet, Texas, USA
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posted 30 July 2004 06:29 AM
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I've seen several people on here using the 1" bars. I have rather large hands but my 7/8" bar has always felt comfortable to me. Only problem besides the rust spots, is I started on a 10 string, which i bought the bar for, and for the last several years, I've owned a d12. I was playing in a band at the time I got it, so I just never put on the bottom two strings, but I'm now, after a 2 year layoff, starting to learn and practice with all 12 strings. I might just as well just buy a 12 string bar. Right? Why the 1" over the 7/8"? Better tone? Comfort? Anyone switch from a 7/8" to a 1"? Why?------------------
Fergy, MSA Classic D12 |
Erv Niehaus
Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
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posted 30 July 2004 07:56 AM
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Try the 15/16", not too big, not too small. Just right!
Erv |
Lincoln Goertzen
Member From: Rose Prairie, British Columbia, Canada
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posted 07 August 2004 10:08 PM
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Doug, I moved from 7/8 to 1" and here's why:1. I liked the tone better. The 1" has a fuller, meatier tone, at least to my ears. 2. I was able to play in tune better. (I can't explain why, but it worked that way.) I keep my 7/8 bar around, but strictly for emergencies, like losing my 1" bar in a volcano, etc. Lincoln |
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