In comparing the various models, I was told by a knowledgable source, that the Pro III's suffer from some tuning stability problems, due to issues with their undercarriage, that the Pro II & later Super Pro's did not have.

I have also noticed that the Pro III's go for significantly less on the open market then the Pro II's. Does this have to do with the tuning issue, or what other factors influence this price difference? One would think that the all-metal necks would command slightly higher prices.

Y'all please don't turn this into a religious war between owners of different Sho-Bud models :-) The goal of my question, is for me, an inexperienced steel player, to get info. that will allow me to make an informed purchase on a good used steel that will serve me well for 1000's of gigs in the years to come.

Db

bobbe

bobbe

[This message was edited by BobbeSeymour on 11 September 2004 at 07:22 AM.]

There has to be some reason for that, beyond scarcity, because I see just as many Pro III's for sale as Pro II's. Seems like the real rare birds are the Pro I's, which are fetching about $1000 over either of the other two models.

So which specific Pro III's were prone to having tuning stability issues? What was the cause of them, and how can I easily spot them? Also can they be modified to fix that problem?

Again, the goal of my question here is to gather enough info. to pick out a Sho Bud that stays in tune as well as any current production instrument.

[This message was edited by Toby Rider on 11 September 2004 at 10:00 AM.]

[This message was edited by Leon Roberts on 12 September 2004 at 07:51 PM.]

As far as thousands of gigs, My old ProIII square body, wide pedal custom has played close to and probably over 3 Thousand gigs. All played hard, and with a cleanout of the changer once every five years or so, returns true with no apprecable "cabinet drop".

I'm playing it tonite.

I've just finished sending all the little odds and ends and an ATA case for my Profesional ( which I've had for 25 years but never really played) off to Duane and Jeff for a rebuild and changer replacement, with 6 kls, white fretboards, and refinishing.

I personally like the metal necks, but the Professional wooden ones usually get more accolades.

Just don't go any newer than the ProIIIs, because the ones I've seen and played were dogs. They tried to be like "Emmonses", and didn't get it done.

On my PIII, the brass swivel rod holders have finally gone "egg shaped" on the AB pedals, and the front warped years ago when I left it in a stationwagon in the sun. Still it plays like a new guitar.

I'll end up gigging with it still I'm sure, though I look for my Marrs to be [i]the[/i[ guitar when it gets here.

Playing it OFTEN is the key I think as with many machines.

Then there's..

WD40...

There was ons in B&S not too long ago Id have jumped on.

EJL

The "locking mechanism" of the nylon nuts was wimpy too. they'd just "butter" the ends of the rods so as to eventually mess up the threads. ( usually takes a few years). Now the acceptable way is blue loctite used sparingly. New nuts are available.

It took 24 years for me to strip out a leg hole, and I just helicoiled my two rear leg holes.

Buy one if you can find it for around 1500.

OR go see Bobbe

I bought mine new around 75 or so ..sold it in the early 90's..mistake...

It was a Black Beauty D10..easy to work on and very easy to adjust stuff like Eric mentioned above..the only tuning issue the guitar had was me

I have no idea if there are other modifications, such as "pot metal" changers, but like Mr Marrs says, if it has hexagonal axles, then it's different from one I've had all these years with "8663" stamped in the left end plate.

Also, you need to pay special attention to the wood in the front apron, and make sure there are no lateral cracks running down the grain from the rows of screws holding the pedal stops. Pretty crack resistant, being birdseye, but still something to check out.

Mr Marrs adresses this by putting a piece of angle plate across the front among other things.

Also, I think they are more resistant to grooving in the fingers than most, as mine only started showing grooves after a couple thousand gigs in 20 years or so.

I doubt if it's been used that hard.

They retailed for 1600 I think, though a whole lot of them went out of the factory for 600$ when the company changed hands at the end of the 70s. I know, I got one.

Wish I'd have gotten five of them..