|
Author
|
Topic: Aluminum swirl marks
|
Bill Miller
Member From: Gaspé, Québec, Canada
|
posted 22 February 2005 02:28 PM
profile
Can anyone recommend a way to remove the very light scratches and swirl marks from polished aluminum? In some light my endplates are like mirrors but from a different angle you can see there are actually a lot of superficial blemishes. Is there safe technique and product for restoring the factory fresh surface? I use 'Mother's' aluminum polish which gives a great shine but it doesn't remove the faint swirl marks. |
Bill Ford
Member From: Graniteville SC Aiken
|
posted 22 February 2005 02:45 PM
profile
Bill,
Unless you're familure with the buffing process, I would advise taking it to a shop that specializes in aluminum work,maybe a local machine shop could recomend someone. You will need to remove the parts to be polished. Before you take anything apart, I would take the guitar, and show them what you have, and explain what you want.Bill F |
Erv Niehaus
Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
|
posted 22 February 2005 02:59 PM
profile
Bill,
Before you start with the polising compound, you need to go over the surface with very fine, wet sand paper. This is to level the surface and remove the scratches. After that you can have at it with the posishing compound.
Erv |
Willis Vanderberg
Member From: Bradenton, FL, USA
|
posted 22 February 2005 05:00 PM
profile
Before you do anything else, try Semichrome polish. It takes a little elbow grease but it will take out swirls and light scratches.
Do a small area at a time and rub in a circular motion.Then buff with a clean cloth. Tee shirt or athletic sock works good. |
Larry Hamilton
Member From: Amarillo, Texas, USA
|
posted 22 February 2005 06:00 PM
profile
Semichrome is really good, just be sure to use light pressure and stop when the applicater STARTS turning black. Wipe off the black and re-apply if necessary.
I currentlly use Emmons aluminum polish with great results using the above technics. I usually lightly polish when I change strings, when ever that may be. Usually every couple months or so. Jagwires last a long time. Hope this might help. ------------------
Keep pickin', Larry |
Earnest Bovine
Member From: Los Angeles CA USA
|
posted 22 February 2005 06:05 PM
profile
quote:
be sure to use light pressure and stop when the applicater STARTS turning black
Why not heavy pressure? And why stop when it starts turning black? |
Bill Miller
Member From: Gaspé, Québec, Canada
|
posted 22 February 2005 06:38 PM
profile
I think I'll try and find some of the SemiChrome and try that first. I wouldn't go so far as to dismantle the guitar and have a professional job done because it isn't that bad at all. In fact, to look at it most people would probably wonder what the fuss is about. It's just that I'd like to keep it looking as new as possible. Thanks for the input.
Just out of curiosity, what number sandpaper would you have to use to be fine enough for that type of work? [This message was edited by Bill Miller on 22 February 2005 at 06:38 PM.] |
Bobby Boggs
Member From: Pendleton SC
|
posted 22 February 2005 06:59 PM
profile
Bill, if the swirl marks were in the aluminum when it left the factory you'll never get em out with SemiChrome.At least I've never been able to.The sand paper thing sounds interesting.Will this remove buffer tracks?? Wouldn't it be great if all builders polished their guitars like Zum?? |
Arnie Craig
Member From: Bastrop, Texas, USA
|
posted 22 February 2005 07:06 PM
profile
bill for a job like you speaking of i would use a very fine emery cloth or crocus cloth to remove small scratches in alum.sand paper will remove too much and be harder to polish back to a glossy or shinney finish.good luck arnie
|
Don Poland
Member From: Littlestown, PA.
|
posted 22 February 2005 08:24 PM
profile
Bill, you might try a local motorcycle shop for the semichrome. Years ago I had a harley and the local dealer sold semichrome. I assume they still use this stuff for all those pretty bikes  ------------------
1974 MSA D10 7+4 |
Winnie Winston
Member From: Tawa, Wellington, NZ
|
posted 23 February 2005 01:39 AM
profile
query:
"Just out of curiosity, what number sandpaper would you have to use to be fine enough for that type of work? "Sandpaper is too coarse-- almost all grades. I've always taken the aluminum down to a 600 wet and dry, followed by a buffing. JW |
David Mason
Member From: Cambridge, MD, USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 02:54 AM
profile
Your search will go easier if you look for "Simichrome" rather than "Semichrome", cause that's what it's called. |
Bill Miller
Member From: Gaspé, Québec, Canada
|
posted 23 February 2005 05:03 AM
profile
Well I found the Simichrome product online but it looks like it won't be easy to find locally or even in Canada...probably have to order it. The stuff doesn't seem to have a big presence in the market.
I think I'll hold off on anything more drastic for fear of doing damage since I lack experience with this type of work. In most light the aluminum looks great anyways. We rehearse in our bass players garage/workshop which has fluorescent lighting....that's where I really notice the swirls and scratches, not just on the endplates but on the aluminum neck between the pickup and fretboard. It's hardly noticeable with incandescent light. I'm still going to work at it though...but not with anything too agressive. Thanks again for the input. |
Per Berner
Member From: Skövde, Sweden
|
posted 23 February 2005 05:20 AM
profile
There is a similar European brand that I am certain is sold in many countries all over the world, called Autosol, sold in every auto parts store and gas station I've ever been to. It's been around for like 50 years and is perfect for chrome, aluminum and even gelcoat and lacquer polishing. Probably the same stuff as Simichrome. |
Jim Peters
Member From: St. Louis, Missouri, USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 06:33 AM
profile
You can order simichrome from Scotty's music in St. Louis.JP |
Glenn Austin
Member From: Montreal, Canada
|
posted 23 February 2005 07:28 AM
profile
Bill, I've purchased SimiChrome in Montreal at Rona Hardware on Notre Dame street. What also works really good is Mothers Mag polish, available at ( where else! )Canadian Tire. |
Jack Stoner
Sysop From: Inverness, Florida
|
posted 23 February 2005 07:37 AM
profile
You can use "MAAS" polish - it looks and works exactly like Simichrome. Wallgreen's carry it (and occasionally put it on sale).For non-abrasive, I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. It works like Simichrome, except it's not abrasive. |
Bill Miller
Member From: Gaspé, Québec, Canada
|
posted 23 February 2005 09:20 AM
profile
I checked out Scotty's website...they have the Simichrome but they don't ship outside the U.S.
Glenn, we have a Rona store here so I'll have a look. I'm already using the 'Mother's' aluminum polish and it gives a great shine but it doesn't get rid of those feathery scratch marks....or hasn't in my case. But Bobby Boggs says the Simichrome won't do that either.[This message was edited by Bill Miller on 23 February 2005 at 11:13 AM.] |
Erv Niehaus
Member From: Litchfield, MN, USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 09:49 AM
profile
When I refinished my Stringmaster, I think I ordered sandpaper as fine as #1200. You use this wet.
Erv |
Roger Crawford
Member From: Locust Grove, GA USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 10:08 AM
profile
Simichrome is available from Carter Guitars. Give 'em a look-see. Tell them I sent you!
Roger |
Earnest Bovine
Member From: Los Angeles CA USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 10:10 AM
profile
On my changer fingers, I use 600 sandpaper, then 1500 sandpaper, then "Nevr-dull magic wadding polish" which I assume is the same as Simichrome. |
richard burton
Member From: Britain
|
posted 23 February 2005 12:07 PM
profile
Why not deliberately sand it with fairly coarse grit, in a swirling motion, leaving a dull matt finish. It's a job that only has to be done once, freeing up valuable time.
R B |
Bill Ford
Member From: Graniteville SC Aiken
|
posted 23 February 2005 01:02 PM
profile
richard,
I tried that, or beadblasting. That did'nt look as good as polished.As for sandpaper, 1500/2000 grit wet-r-dry, but you're starting over doing that, I'd try semichrome, or leave it alone if you don't go with a professional buffer. Bill |
Dave Grothusen
Member From: Scott City, Ks
|
posted 23 February 2005 02:58 PM
profile
Hey Bill, all things age. With objects they call it "patina" with old steel players there are many names for it. There is nothing wrong with wanting to keep your guitar looking like new, so go ahead and shine it occasionally. However you may want to leave a ding or two in it for old times sake. Like "I remember the night I got that scratch" or "WOW I was really cook'n that time I melted the finish in that spot". I have a mark or two on the finish of mine that I do not know how they got there but I sure would not want to refinish the guitar to get rid of them. It is that first scratch or two or ding on a brand new guitar that hurts, after that it is PATINA. Probably not worth tearing down the guitar for.
That is my 2 cents worth, and by the way Simichrome is good stuff.
|
Ron Steenwijk
Member From: Greensburg,PA
|
posted 23 February 2005 03:07 PM
profile
quote:
When I refinished my Stringmaster, I think I ordered sandpaper as fine as #1200
Erv.
Try using 1400.Not available in every store but use it and you get a better look.
But there is something else I like better then paper and that is what we (in Holland) call steel wool.
Nothing can't beat that.
BTW.Thanks for "Constantines" adress.They have what I need.Ron ------------------
Nikaro SD10 4x6 ,Nikaro SD10 4x5,2 Peavey Ultratube 112 European Steel Guitar Forum [This message was edited by Ronald Steenwijk on 23 February 2005 at 03:09 PM.]
|
Martin Gillette
New Member From: West Hartford, Connecticut, USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 04:19 PM
profile
If you're looking for top-notch, fine-grit finishing paper, try: https://www.micro-surface.com/. Washable, reusable papers up to 3200 grit. Should take you right up to a "buff" quality finish. |
Steven Black
Member From: Gahanna, Ohio, USA
|
posted 23 February 2005 05:20 PM
profile
I would not do any polishing until you have removed all the strings and roller nuts and somehow covered the cabinet because the dust from sanding will get all over it and into the mechanics, also polish will coat the strings when you buff making them go dead, this happened to me on my U12 MSA so prep your guitar before you begin. steveb. |
Mark Herrick
Member From: Los Angeles, CA
|
posted 24 February 2005 10:23 AM
profile
Look for SimiChrome polish at your local motorcycle shop. They usually have it at Harley dealers.(Edit: D'oh! Didn't see the earlier post!) Try the SimiChrome first. I wouldn't go the wet sanding route unless you are really talking "scratches"; you're just getting into a whole lot of work. Light swirl marks should polish out with a couple of applications of SimiChrome. ------------------
[This message was edited by Mark Herrick on 24 February 2005 at 10:25 AM.]
|
The Steel Guitar Forum
