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  Carter Bellcranks

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Author Topic:   Carter Bellcranks
Gary Shepherd
Member

From: Fox, Oklahoma, USA

posted 22 March 2005 04:54 PM     profile     
Have any of you Carter players ever thought about changing the bellcranks? I like the Sierra bellcranks better because changes are fast. There's no pin to remove.

I just got my Carter last week, went to move one of the pullrods to a different slot for faster action and found that I have to loosen the pullrod, remove a pin, put the pin in a different bellcrank slot, snap the pullrod back onto the pin, and return.

On the Sierras, you just loosen the rod, and move a nylon bushing to a different bellcrank slot. Then you can tune up again. The Sierra pullrods thread through a nylon bushing instead of clipping/snapping onto the pin like Carter.

Other than having differen pullrod ends (at the bellcranks) I don't see why a Sierra type pullrod/bellcrank assembly wouldn't work on a Carter.

Any ideas or comments?

------------------
Gary Shepherd

Sierra Session D-10

Carter D-10

www.16tracks.com

Curt Langston
Member

From: ***In the shadows of Tulsa at Bixby, USA***

posted 22 March 2005 07:05 PM     profile     
Hi Gary! Just some friendly advice. DO NOT change the bell cranks. Carter has intentionally designed their bell cranks in this fashion for a reason. They pull the rod straight. I mean to say they pull the rod INLINE with the changer fingers. Sure, it may take a couple of extra minutes to change the action to your taste, but it is worth it. Sierra and some of the other brands that use the "L" hook method will have a slight offset pull, or "flex" if you will, that can theorectically effect sustain. When the pedal or knee is activated there can be a very slight bow to the left or right, depending on how much free play the "L" hook has in it. The further that the "L" hook is allowed to move out before the pins stop it, the more variable the bow will be. Even if it is only minute, it is not something that you want to happen. Carter has really done their homework. Just my humble opinion.
Ricky Davis
Moderator

From: Spring, Texas USA

posted 22 March 2005 07:09 PM     profile     
Listen to Curt; he speaks the truth.
Rods flexing is the main culprit of a stiff action...If you like the action; don't go changing anything.
Ricky
J D Sauser
Member

From: Traveling, currently in Switzerland, soon to be either back in the States or on the Eastern part of Hispaniola Island

posted 24 March 2005 11:13 AM     profile     
Actually the Sierra used the H-style bellcranks just as MSA and Carter. The problem with the Sierra approach is that the rods have to be straight (no bends at all) because when you tune a change at the endplate, the whole rod turns and treads in and out at the bellcrank pin, which was made of some nylon type material. To run all rods with no bends at all can be disirable but takes up space, space the large and virtually empty aluminum channel Sierra used as body was big enough to offer.

Still, I think that Carter's approach is at least as quick to re-setup as there is no screw to lock the rod through the pin, as opposed to the older MSA design. Instead they use a wrap around the pin design, which can be disassembled in no time by loosening the pull-tuning-hex at the endplate... pull back the rod to unhook and off it is (bellcrank ready to be loosened and moved).
In other words, I don't think that either (the Sierra or Carter approach) is slower or faster, realy.

... J-D.

[This message was edited by J D Sauser on 25 March 2005 at 05:10 AM.]

Chris Allen Burke
Member

From: Signal Hill, CA

posted 27 March 2005 09:48 AM     profile     
Hey Pickers,
Carter has been using a cap nut and pin as of late on add ons and stock runs. Similar to the MSA design, the tuning rod slides through a hole in the pin that is cradeled in the center pull bellcrank and then a small cap nut is tightend on the external end of the pin. This very easy for making adjustments but adds some external hardware. If the hardware is in the way of another pull or rod then they use their original curved rod and pin system.
CAB
Jon Light
Member

From: Brooklyn, NY

posted 27 March 2005 09:54 AM     profile     
I have found that an absolutely helpful tool is a very long & narrow needle nose plier--mine is spring loaded with a 2" nose that tapers from 1/8" to a point. Sure makes insertion and poistioning of the brass barrels a lot easier.

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