Timing adjustments are important on the "C" pedal, as the two changed strings are adjacent, and often played together. On the "A" and "B" pedals, they're not as important for most players as the octaves are seldom played together. For most players, it's the pedal height that is the most critical adjustment on the A & B pedals.

Lastly, "there ain't no free lunch" where levers are concerned. Anything you do to reduce effort (without employing helper springs) simply gives you a longer throw.

[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 07 August 2005 at 03:47 PM.]

To me this is the equivalent of using a bell crank hole in between the 2 existing ones, because the pull rod is mechanically positioned between them. I don't know if it will last, but I do know that my foot likes it a lot better than anything else I've tried.

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Mike Barone
Sho-Bud Pro-1 5&4 with RHL | Nashville 112
Assorted Guitars & Keyboards

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To me this is the equivalent of using a bell crank hole in between the 2 existing ones...

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That is basically all you are doing by rotating the bell cranks on the cross rods. If you had an infinitely adjustable bell crank/pull rod connection, you wouldn't need to rotate bell cranks at all.

(Is Bill Hankey posting under a pseudonym?)

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Is Bill Hankey posting under a pseudonym?

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LOL.
Honestly Mark, I thought the same thing. This sure reminded me of Bill.

Coincidence? Hmmmmm....

If I drilled an indentation on the cross shaft at the new set screw location, I wonder if this would help in the long run in keeping it from slipping.

I have a foam rod guide at the halfway point, and I don't have any vertical rod movement at the halfway point (that I can see). But I may be introducing a slight bend (of about 3/16")in the 27" rod to the B pedal crank.

Wouldn't the rod guide provide stability in this case, with the slight vertical movement being virtually non-existent at the endplate?

There has been no breakage or slippage of bell cranks. The relative force to activate one pull rod at the bell crank is small compared to, say, the force at the pedal rod-to-cross shaft bell crank which is responsible for torquing all the strings on the cross rod. I have had slippage problems with a knee lever on a round shaft, but that is easily solved by adding a dummy bell crank to the shaft and expansion-pinning it to the problem lever.

Some of the pull rods on my machine are "s" shaped to compensate for the awkward positioning of other pull rods relative to them. The pull rods that would normally pull at anything other than 90 degrees to the changer could be so fashioned (s-curved) to eliminate any wear or misalignment. True, there might (that's might) be a little less consistency in the tuning of this rod's string compared to that of a straight rod, but likely less than, say, normal cabinet drop.

Sometimes, it's almost impossible to run straight rods, particularly on a universal 12 machine. This machine has 25 rods to be tuned at the endplate, a couple of split tuners that are accessed from under the deck, and a couple of other rods that require tuning form under the deck since they are modifications to a third raise on a 2-raise changer. There is also a half-stop that requires under-the-deck tuning as well.

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Wouldn't the rod guide provide stability in this case...

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Yes Michael, any apparatus or method used to keep the pull rods from moving up and down would eliminate the problem. I would expect, however, occasional replacing of any parts made of foam might be necessary.