Steel Guitar Strings
Strings & instruction for lap steel, Hawaiian & pedal steel guitars
http://SteelGuitarShopper.com
Ray Price Shuffles
Classic country shuffle styles for Band-in-a-Box, by BIAB guru Jim Baron.
http://steelguitarmusic.com

This Forum is CLOSED.
Go to bb.steelguitarforum.com to read and post new messages.


  The Steel Guitar Forum
  Pedal Steel
  Changer logic (all pull).

Post New Topic  
your profile | join | preferences | help | search

next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Changer logic (all pull).
Charles Dempsey
Member

From: The Cradle of the Stars.

posted 14 August 2005 06:03 PM     profile     
My LeGrande 3 has three raise positions and two lower positions. How do you decide which position to use if more than one is open?

I've got 3 raises on my C6 string 4 (A). The pedal 4 raise to B went in the lowest hole because it was the only one open. It seems to work OK. Just wondering how one decides where to put these things.

Charlie

Donny Hinson
Member

From: Balto., Md. U.S.A.

posted 14 August 2005 06:45 PM     profile     
It's sort of a compromise. Picking a hole that's higher (nearer the changer axle) means that more effort will be required, but the change will happen quicker, taking less pedal movement. Chosing a lower hole means the effort will be less, but the pedal movement will be greater (longer). In the end, it's sort of trial-and-error. Half-tone changes require little movement at the changer, so you can easily make the effort low. Changes of a full tone or more may require all the changer movement you can get, so a higher hole may be required.
David Doggett
Member

From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

posted 14 August 2005 11:07 PM     profile     
On an all-pull, the changer hole doesn't make near as much difference as the bellcrank hole. The changer holes are very close together, and the part with the holes moves parallel to the pull rod. And the little flange with the holes stays perpindicular to the direction of the pull and does not move in an arc. Therefore, a given distance of pull on the part of the rod will move that part of the jointed finger about the same distance, regardless of which hole it is in. Thus, the changer hole can usually be chosen just based on what works out with the other pulls on the same finger.

The hole or slot used on the bell crank makes a huge difference. The bell crank travels in an arc. So for a given pedal travel, holes near the cross rod axle move a short distance and holes further from the cross shaft move a longer distance. First determine which hole you need at the bellcrank. Then choose the changer hole that works out best for the bell crank hole you need.

A push/pull is just the opposite. The changer fingers are long, the holes are spaced far apart, and the finger moves in an arc. The changer holes make as much or more difference than the bell crank holes. In fact, I think the original push/pulls only had one bell crank hole, and one bell crank length. So all the adjusting for action was done at the changer.

All times are Pacific (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  
Hop to:

Contact Us | The Pedal Steel Pages

Note: Messages not explicitly copyrighted are in the Public Domain.

Powered by Infopop www.infopop.com © 2000
Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.46

Our mailing address is:
The Steel Guitar Forum
148 South Cloverdale Blvd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425 USA

Support the Forum