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Author
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Topic: Emmons p/p neck finish
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Chippy Wood
Member From: Elgin, Scotland
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posted 17 October 2005 06:15 AM
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Hi is it possible to have old p/pull neck restored to its original finish,I believe they may have been machine turned.Thanks ------------------
Ron (Chippy) Wood
Emmons D10
Emmons D12 |
Rainer Hackstaette
Member From: Bohmte, Germany
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posted 17 October 2005 06:31 AM
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Chippy, I assume that you're talking about metal necks and their "jewelled" surface between the fretboard and the changer. On the Carter site http://www.steelguitar.com there is a section on the restoration of a '66 Emmons PP. Several video clips show different parts of the restoration process. One of them deals with the re-jewelling of the neck, using a sander with coarse sandpaper. It's really quite easy, but you'll have to take the fretboard off. Just taping the fretboard is not enough.Rainer
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Remington, Sierra, Emmons PP, Fender Artist, Sho~Bud |
Chippy Wood
Member From: Elgin, Scotland
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posted 17 October 2005 07:01 AM
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Hi Rainer,
Many thanks for that, it looks easy enough, but knowing me!!!!!.Ron
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Ron (Chippy) Wood
Emmons D10
Emmons D12 |
richard burton
Member From: Britain
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posted 17 October 2005 11:48 AM
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If it was my steel, I wouldn't remove the neck just for cosmetic reasons.
You risk losing the tone. |
Nic du Toit
Member From: Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
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posted 17 October 2005 02:10 PM
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Chippy,
Wise words from Richard. I say 'Amen' to that.
Regards,------------------
 Nic du Toit
1970 Rosewood P/P Emmons D10 Fatback 8x4
Peavey Session 500 unmodfied
My CD "Nightmare on Emmons Steel"
Veruschka's CD "Don't Dream it's Over"
Click here to E-mail us.
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Wiz Feinberg
Moderator From: Flint, Michigan, USA
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posted 23 October 2005 11:02 AM
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I also would warn anybody thinking about removing their Emmons aluminum necks that if you overtighten the screws when you put them back on you will kill the tone, sustain and harmonics. There is a happy place where these 8 screws need to be set. When you find it the guitar will sing, and even strumming it acoustically the sound will jump out. With the screws overtightened the strummed sound will be less resonant, the harmonics will die quickly and the twang may be lost. I have my neck mounting screws backed off about 1/2 turn each, and the guitar sings and sustains. When I tightened them up against the body the sound was choked, the harmonics died almost instantly and the twang was gone. I also believe, but haven't proven, that under-tightening the screws, completely loose, allows for excessive body collapse on unpedaled strings with the A&B pedals mashed. The necks do serve as struts against upward collapse, to a degree. There may be a particular tightness that will absolutely minimize upward body collapse without choking the tone, but it is tricky to find that setting. ------------------
Bob "Wiz" Feinberg
Moderator of the SGF Computers Forum
1983 Rosewood Emmons D10 Push-Pull, with 8 pedals and 9 knee levers, and Lawrence LXR-16 pickups. Nashville 400 amp with Peavey Mod.
I use and endorse Jagwire Strings and accessories.
Keep Steelin' but don't get caught! Visit my Wiztunes website at: http://www.wiztunes.com/
or my main website: Wizcrafts Computer Services [This message was edited by Wiz Feinberg on 23 October 2005 at 11:02 AM.]
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Per Berner
Member From: Skövde, Sweden
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posted 23 October 2005 10:30 PM
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I'm also thinking of refinishing the neck before I put on the new chrome fretboards, but now I'm not so sure what to do. How can we be sure that they are tightened the way they should be? A lot can happen in 30 years, and I haven't a clue whether mine's OK or not. It sounds great to my ears, but maybe it could be even better? Has anyone tried applying a torque wrench on a perfectly tightened neck, to check what we all should be striving for? Or is anyone who owns of such a gem willing to try? It shouldn't be difficult, and it shouldn't risk messing anything up at all – just back off a little, tighten up to the original position and note the torque values. ------------------
´75 Emmons p/p D10 8+4, '96 Emmons Legrande II D10 8+5, Peavey Nashville 1000
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Glenn Austin
Member From: Montreal, Canada
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posted 24 October 2005 02:23 PM
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The way Emmons slotted neck screws are made, it's very hard to over tighten them. They should be just snug, so they don't back out over time. The screws are supported by the wooden cabinet, so I don't think there is any way to use a torque wrench to get an ideal degree of tightness.The wood will compress under the screw. I seriously doubt the Emmons factory used any black magic for that. On the couple of Emmons guitars that I have redone I found tightening the screws that hold the endplates on has an effect on the tone too. These get loose over time because they aren't very long. I don't think you will risk anything by rejewelling the necks. Just make sure you have ALL the right tools for the job. Buy a scrap piece of aluminum to practice on first. And believe me, buffing aluminum is a really dirty job. |
Chippy Wood
Member From: Elgin, Scotland
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posted 24 October 2005 02:26 PM
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Many thanks to everyone who has responded to this post, as ever the amount of advice and other help must make this one of the greatest forums ever.
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Ron (Chippy) Wood
Emmons D10
Emmons D12 |
Per Berner
Member From: Skövde, Sweden
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posted 25 October 2005 01:39 AM
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Maybe it would be better to polish the top of the necks instead - that could possibly be done without removing them. Never really cared for the jeweled effect anyway...------------------
´75 Emmons p/p D10 8+4, '96 Emmons Legrande II D10 8+5, Peavey Nashville 1000
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Mike Cass
Member From: Nashville,Tn. U.S.A.
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posted 25 October 2005 10:21 AM
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In effort to match the original patterning used on the p/p's,Ive found that the small, rectangular DeWalt palm(not round orbital)sander w/Norton brand coarse-grade emery cloth will produce the desired results. Home Depot carries the Norton brand.
The most important thing is to buff the neck tops in addition to the sides,then level the tops with the sander. I even sand all the way up the sides(just outside the fretboard edges but not really under that part of the f/b)to keep continuity. Buffing,then levelling will add sparkle as well as that 3D look when you reach the last step.
The final patterning process will consist of picking up and setting down the sander one quadrant of the pickup/changer/lower-fretboard area at a time until all shiny spots are gone and youre left with the pattern. Patience,here,and change emery cloth between necks; new cloth for each neck top in the final phase. 1 sheet of coarse should give you the 4 pieces needed.
In this final phase I should suggest you start with the edges though; all the way up the edges and down around the tailpiece end,then at the next step you'll automatically blend the edges to the main surface as you go.
Great idea about the practice piece to see what pressure gives you the most realistic look. Good luck![This message was edited by Mike Cass on 25 October 2005 at 10:22 AM.] |
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