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Author
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Topic: Wear on Changer?????
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Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 24 March 2006 07:46 AM
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I'm noticing some wear on my changer where the strings come across, can this be "gently" sanded out?
Larry |
Donny Hinson
Member From: Balto., Md. U.S.A.
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posted 24 March 2006 07:55 AM
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Well, I like the term "polish" better than "sand". You must be very careful not to make a flat spot on top of the finger, or the string will buzz like crazy! The proper curved radius must be maintained!Use something like #400 or #600 emery paper if the groove is really bad, otherwise, you can just polish it a little with a Dremel tool and a buffing wheel with a little polishing compound. Go very slowly and carefully and you'll be fine.
[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 24 March 2006 at 07:56 AM.] |
Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 24 March 2006 08:06 AM
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Ok Donny, We'll use the term "polish" lol..Donny the grooves aren't bad, just starting. I noticed them while doing my monthly string change and cleanup.
Maybe try and "polish" them out by hand before I put a buffer on them??
Larry |
Jack Stoner
Sysop From: Inverness, Florida
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posted 24 March 2006 08:30 AM
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"Polish" them with a slightly abrasive polishing compound such as "Simichrome" or "MAAS" (they seem to be identical). You can get Simichrome at many Motorcycle shops and MAAS at Wallgreens. These are what many steel guitar builders and refinishers use on polished aluminum. |
Mathias Lundqvist
Member From: Sweden
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posted 24 March 2006 08:43 AM
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Using some kind of polishing compound, as Jack suggests, is probably the best way of getting rid of slight wear.
Otherwise, you need to get the fingers machine polished. There were quite a lot of wear on the MSA classic I bought recently, so I took the fingers to a metal workshop and had them machine polished to a wear free, high gloss finish, with very good result. And it wasn't expensive. Set me back about $10! [This message was edited by Mathias Lundqvist on 24 March 2006 at 09:17 AM.] |
Ray Minich
Member From: Limestone, New York, USA
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posted 24 March 2006 09:22 AM
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Buffing wheels, the easiest and quickest way to make something fly across a room at very high speed. |
Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 24 March 2006 09:36 AM
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Ray,,
Me being a heavy equipment welder by trade I know about buffing, and grinding wheels,, I'm just used to working on stuff a "little bigger"!! Like dozers, and scrapers!! LOL..Thanks for the help quys, when I take it down again I try "polishing" the fingers! Larry now if I can just learn to spell..[This message was edited by Larry Strawn on 24 March 2006 at 09:37 AM.] |
Jim Palenscar
Member From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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posted 24 March 2006 09:42 AM
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If you do sand or polish it- do whatever it takes (have a fan or wet-sand) to keep the resulting grit from dropping down into the changer itself as the grit gets in between the changer fingers and the changer axle and will ruin it in a hurry. |
Bill Hatcher
Member From: Atlanta Ga. USA
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posted 24 March 2006 11:49 AM
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There is a video on the Carter website showing how to lap the top of the cams to restore a new surface.[This message was edited by Bill Hatcher on 24 March 2006 at 11:50 AM.] |
Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 24 March 2006 01:15 PM
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Jim,
I know you're right about that, I'll do my best to keep the grit out of the changer.
Like I said the wear is very little, if I can get it now maybe I can head off a potential problem..
Thanx guys.
Larry------------------
Emmons S/D-10, 3/5, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY" |
Bill Ford
Member From: Graniteville SC Aiken
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posted 27 March 2006 07:21 AM
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I have used white "scotchbrite" pads,(available at auto paint stores) followed with Mothers mag polish. Go slow whatever you use.Bill |
Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 27 March 2006 07:54 AM
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Bill, I've thought about something like a Scotch-brite pad, I'm going to try to polish it out first. I appreciate all the help, and suggestions.Larry |
Larry Bell
Member From: Englewood, Florida
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posted 27 March 2006 08:16 AM
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Seriously, try a PENCIL ERASER first. You'll be surprised, especially if the groove is just beginning to form. I use a pencil eraser to resurface the radius area on all my changer fingers whenever I change strings. I also keep a typewriter eraser handy as a next resort. If neither takes the groove out I'll use wet/dry. I always follow with Simichrome and a Blitz Cloth. Has worked for me for many years on a bunch of different guitars. If you take care of it regularly the grooves won't get beyond repair. Another thing I've used with good success is a Dremel with a buffing wheel and a little buffing compound.I'll reiterate the previous warning not to sand so extremely that you flatten the top of the radius. The curve of the finger must stay intact or else you're asking for trouble. ------------------
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
[This message was edited by Larry Bell on 27 March 2006 at 08:18 AM.]
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Joseph Meditz
Member From: San Diego, California USA
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posted 27 March 2006 08:59 AM
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I wonder to what extent this wear is a result of galvanic corrosion. Jim P. recommended that I put tiny bit of oil where the strings touch the changer. Besides reducing friction, I think this reduces galvanic corrosion as well. Joe |
Larry Bell
Member From: Englewood, Florida
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posted 27 March 2006 09:39 AM
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I would hazard the guess that none is galvanic corrosion. The string just saws and slices mechanically.------------------
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 27 March 2006 11:44 AM
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Pencil eraser??
Larry, I'll try it first, see what happens. Like I stated they are not bad, just begining to show.
Pencil eraser,,,,Hmmmmm,,I know it will remove rust spots from blued gun barrells and such. Thanks Larry I'll give it a try.Larry |
Gerald Menke
Member From: Brooklyn, NY, USA
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posted 27 March 2006 01:35 PM
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One builder I spoke to advocating using a jeweler's file and some 600 grit sandpaper to smooth at grooves on the changer. Worked like a charm for me. That nutty buzzing that results from a grooved changer will drive you crazy until you find out what's causing it.Just go easy! |
Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 28 March 2006 12:37 PM
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Larry Bell,,,,,,,,Pencil eraser who would of thought it!! lol...
Broke a 3rd string a while ago while practicing, since I had the string off thought I'd try the eraser, followed up with a little polishing and "walla" clean as a whistle! Guess you know what it gets at the next string change!! Thanks a lot Larry,,Larry ------------------
Emmons S/D-10, 3/5, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY" |
David Doggett
Member From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA
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posted 28 March 2006 10:16 PM
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Most of the grooved changers I have seen come not from wear but from someone turning the guitar upside down and resting it directly on the strings and changer on a hard surface. Once like that is enough to gouge the changer. Sometimes on the wound strings you can actually see the winding imprints in the changer. Novices see pros working on guitars upside down and think nothing of flipping a guitar over. What they don't realize is that the changer has to be rested on thick carpet, or held up from any contact with blocks. But it would take many, many years of normal play to cause grooves in a changer. I'm not saying your guitar was turned upside down with no protection, but just want to caution that this is the number one reason for damaged changers on used steels. The repair is the same, but obviously requires more polishing. |
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