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Author
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Topic: "Fessy" Bell Cranks
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Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 27 July 2006 10:50 AM
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I recieved an e-amil from gentleman today explaining a very simple, and in-expensive way to stop pull rods from coming out of the open slots on Fessy style bell cranks.I wish I could take credit for this but I can't, even though the concept, and use of set collars is not new to me, I have used and worked with them for years, It didn't even cross my mind until Paul Redman e-mailed me with this information. The model air plane co. DU-BRO makes what they call "Duro Collars" These are simply brass plated collars with a hole thru the middle and a set screw. These will fit 1/8", or 7/64" inch pull rods. Just remove pull rod, slip collar on rod, install pull rod in bell crank, and re adjust, then set collar approx. 1/8" in front of bell crank and tighten with wrench supplied with collars. Packet of 4 collars $1.99. Thought I would share this with any one who is interested. Larry ------------------
"Fessy" S/D 12, 8/6 Hilton Pedal, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY" |
Larry Bell
Member From: Englewood, Florida
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posted 27 July 2006 12:09 PM
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I just do what Jerry does
Use a pair of pliers to push together the two tabs the bend on the end of the rod goes through -- just enough to keep it from falling out but not enough to impede its movement.------------------
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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Joseph Meditz
Member From: San Diego, California USA
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posted 27 July 2006 01:39 PM
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I was thinking about using little pieces, ~ 1/2" long," of clear rubber tubing of ID small enough to make a snug fit over the rods. That's the way it appears to be done on MSAs IIRC Greg Cutshaw's pix. Of course the collars would work, but I don't like the idea of adding mass to the rods. Jerry's method is elegant in that it requires a minimum of parts. But I don't like bending the comb on the bellcrank. The last time I changed my strings I removed them all and turned the axe upside down to oil the fingers. Of course after that a couple of rods were out of place resulting in a barrage of expetives! Good thing my wife didn't hear me. She would've fined me for cussin'. But that was 2/25/06! Since then only one string, the 4th E has broken and that was only a couple of weeks ago. And I play it every day and mash those pedals a lot. (Yeah I know, I'm way overdue on a string change. I'm the same way with my classical. I change them when either they break or begin to unwrap.) Eight months ago Jim Palenscar told me that once I got done fussing with my Fessy that I would rarely touch it afterward. So true! This axe performs absloutely flawlessly. It is a joy to use! Joe |
jerry harkins
Member From: Horseshoe Bay, TX
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posted 28 July 2006 10:46 AM
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You might try Small rubber bands like dentist use on braces or small O rings and place them over the tabs in front of the rods.Jerry. |
Mike Wheeler
Member From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
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posted 28 July 2006 11:21 AM
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Thanks, Jerry. Good suggestion. I'll try that on mine. |
Darvin Willhoite
Member From: Leander, Tx. USA
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posted 28 July 2006 11:37 AM
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I've had my Fessy for about 7 or 8 years now and I've never had a problem with the rods coming out of the bellcrank. If there is enough slack for the rod to come out of the slot, it should be moved to a different slot. ------------------
Darvin Willhoite
Riva Ridge Recording
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Jon Light
Member From: Brooklyn, NY
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posted 28 July 2006 11:40 AM
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Wouldn't there have to be an awful lot of slack in the pull-train to allow a rod to come off the puller? Wouldn't a mechanical tune-up be in order (tightening up the nylon tuner, backing off the pedal travel)?
That being said, I'm picturing a soft plastic or a rubber cap, sort of like an iceskate blade cover that would be placed on the length of the open end of the bellcrank, pressed on and held by friction. 
ooops--addressing the same observation about slack as Darvin at the same time. BTW--I'm not just butting in---I have a new Fessy on order so I'm legitimately interested.[This message was edited by Jon Light on 28 July 2006 at 11:56 AM.]
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John Macy
Member From: Denver, CO USA
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posted 28 July 2006 12:19 PM
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I have been playing Fessys since 98, and own 2 of them. I had my first rod slip out of the bellcrank last week, and that was from flying it to D.C. and back, and I have to assume they gave it a good drop. Other than that, no problems (and believe me, it has flown a lot...)... |
Larry Strawn
Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA
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posted 28 July 2006 12:19 PM
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I might clarify that I have had no problem with the rods coming out, after the first night I owned the guitar.As with any "new to us" steels I was tinkering with it, trying to make it fit me, but mainly I was having trouble with the 9th string B+D pull,in the process of trying to get this 1 1/2 step raise I loosened the nylon tuning nuts to much and had rods falling out of the bell crank! I discovered what happened and realized that was not the thing to do! lol. After more "experimenting", I found I preferred a smooth tolerance fit on the pull rod, and bell crank by sanding the end of the rod smooth instead of taking a chance on a tight spot by "crimping" the openings of the bell crank. Now it appears to me if the guitar is adjusted up properly there is no danger of a pull rod falling out, but if you're like me I've decided everything is not perfect all the time, and a little "added" precaution to make sure this doesn't happen can't hurt. I liked the concept of the retaining collars as that added precaution and thought I would share an idea that was freely given to me. If your milage varys??  I am a firm believer that "Murphy" was an optimist! Larry ------------------
"Fessy" S/D 12, 8/6 Hilton Pedal, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY" |
Joseph Meditz
Member From: San Diego, California USA
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posted 31 July 2006 09:05 AM
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I got a chance to see Ed Packard's BEAST on Saturday. It is an absolutely beautiful machine! It's like an exotic sports car masterfully built by Tom Baker. The design of the bell cranks addresses all of the problems mentioned above. This comes at the expense of additonal parts such as delrin bushings, springs, shrink tubing and grommits. Also, the bell cranks are wider since the rod pulls in the middle of a balanced pair. There is a close up photo of the bell cranks on the sierra site.
http://sierrasteels.com/pages/pst/index.html Joe
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David Doggett
Member From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA
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posted 31 July 2006 09:53 AM
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I don't remember if rods ever slipped out while I was playing. I mainly remember it happening while I was working on it. I would make some changes, and then when I turned it upright to play, I would discover one or more rods I wasn't working on had slipped out. It seemed to happen even if everything was adjusted right. I would have to back off the nylon tuner to get the slipped rods back in place, which indicates there was not too much slack. It may have to do with having raises and lowers on the same string. With a uni there are a lot of those. Maybe this is less a problem with a D10. |
Mike Wheeler
Member From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
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posted 31 July 2006 10:33 AM
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Dave, I think you're right. I know how to adjust my Fessy pulls for just enough slack, but still have "fall out" problems once in a while (it's a uni). The "O" ring idea should solve my problems though...we'll see. |
Paul Redmond
Member From: Illinois, USA
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posted 01 August 2006 10:08 PM
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The main cause of the rod falling out the back of the crank that I've encountered over the years w/slotted bellcranks has been on string #8 on Uni's. The E is being held down to D# and when FP 6 is pushed, the changer pulls ahead of the former D# position to D. The D# rod now doesn't have anything save for maybe some friction somewhere, to prevent it from "drifting" along with the motion of the changer arm. That free-floating rod is sort of suspended there until the pedal is released. String 6 can do the same thing if it is raised to A then pedal 7 is pushed raising it to A#. The A raise rod can drift. String 9 raised to C# then KL used to pull it to D. You can see where I'm headed here. I saw Al Petty have this happen to him one time in Knoxville in the middle of a song. The rod didn't drop out completely. It relocated to a different slot and Al pulled his G# up to some where in the ozone. I did see another picker lose a rod also in the middle of a song at another gig once. Hit his pedal and YIKES Martha, we got no brakes!! |
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