The Steel Guitar Forum
Pedal Steel Archive
Intro & Sho-Bud refinish question (Page 3)
UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone!
profile | join | preferences | help | search
Steel Guitar Strings Strings & instruction for lap steel, Hawaiian & pedal steel guitars http://SteelGuitarShopper.com |
Ray Price Shuffles Classic country shuffle styles for Band-in-a-Box, by BIAB guru Jim Baron. http://steelguitarmusic.com |
This Forum is CLOSED. |
|
|
The Steel Guitar Forum
Pedal Steel Archive
Intro & Sho-Bud refinish question (Page 3)
profile | join | preferences | help | search
|
| This topic is 3 pages long: 1 2 3 This topic was originally posted in this forum: Pedal Steel |
| Author | Topic: Intro & Sho-Bud refinish question |
|
David Bradsher Member Posts: 17 |
posted 09 July 2001 09:59 AM
Hi everyone - Just joined the Forum about a week ago after lurking for several months. I suppose I'm still a newbie even after 2 years (self-taught) of playing - made the jump tp PSG after 35+ years of 6-string fingerstyle playing. The discussions in this group have been a huge help to me in learning - thanks, guys! While trying to sell my 70's LDG (decided to move up to a universal 12 Mullen) I have caught quite a bit of flak for having a Sho-Bud with a painted body (refinished by the previous owner). Would a refinish process be possible that would 1) strip the old finish, 2) restore the wood to something resembling the original stained finish, 3) retain/replace the existing logos & "rope" ornamentation? thanks again, |
|
Donny Hinson Member Posts: 9192 |
posted 09 July 2001 02:20 PM
I suppose you could tear the thing down, and then use a liquid stripper (or "Easy-Off") to remove the paint. The stripper may affect the glue holding the rope inlay. In any event, you can't sand very much because the inlay is very thin. If you're that unhappy, you could try it. But personally, I would take it to a good detail painter (like the guys who do custom-cars and motorcycles) and see what he would charge to do somthing like that. I think if it had some silhouette, or geometric stenciling and metalflake, you might start a trend away from "boring" steel guitars finishes. If I ever get the chance, I'd like to do one in black pearl paint with rainbow mirror-flake. I think that'd look dynamite! |
|
Kenny Davis Member Posts: 779 |
posted 09 July 2001 09:25 PM
Donny - Did you ever see Gary Hogue's Mullen? He had it finished like Marty Stuart's Custom Shop's Tele - Blue Sparkle. Pretty cool! [This message was edited by Kenny Davis on 09 July 2001 at 09:27 PM.] |
|
David Bradsher Member Posts: 17 |
posted 10 July 2001 06:36 AM
Personally, I wouldn't mind having a metalflake paisley finish like the late 60's "psychedelic" series of Tele's that James Burton (Tele wizard for Elvis, Emmylou Harris, & others) played for years - even though Sneaky Pete Kleinow already did the paisley thing on his Fender steel back in the 70's. The point is that I'm trying to sell the LDG & most of the responses I've gotten have been that the lack of a "standard" Sho-Bud finish is a major turn-off - irrespective of the playability or tonal qualities of the instrument. |
|
Duane Becker Member Posts: 382 |
posted 14 July 2001 03:55 PM
David, I have refinished several Sho~Buds, just recently an LDG. Any way its very possible to refinish your Sho~Bud to look like the original. I sanded mine down trying the stripper once and I will never use it again. Using the stipper is very messy and its just as easy to sand the body down. Takes about 6 hours or so to sand it smooth to 220 grit paper. The inlay will not be harmed by sanding. Just be careful around the inlay with the course sandpaper. The 220 grip is OK to use over the inlay. After that, you match the orignal color and apply a dye stain(Not regular stains-although the regular stains do work, the dye stains react better to the hard maple wood). Then apply lacquer. I just use the spray can type. 3 to 4 cans should do it. You must be very careful when you apply the water based decals and spray the lacquer over the top of the decal because the decal will wither up and crack. You must spray the lacquer over the decal just one time and let it dry for about 24 hours. Then spray another pass of lacquer(just one pass) and let it dry for another 24 hours. Do this for several days, one spray each day and you just need to spray like this over the decal and not the intire body. Then after you have embedded the decal with lacquer you can spray the whole guitar body. Its wise to have several decals in hand just in case the decal withers. Remember to sand with about 600 to 800 grit paper between coats of lacquer. You should apply about 6 coats of lacquer. Let each coat dry 24 hours and sand between coats. Then rub down with pumice and rottenstone. Let the body cure for 45 days or so before you put things on the guitar. But be careful you can dent or chip the lacquer if its not cured enough. There is many more details that I did not give so please feel free to ask questions. Thanks Duane Becker |
| This topic is 3 pages long: 1 2 3 All times are Pacific (US) | This is an ARCHIVED topic. You may not reply to it! |
Note: Messages not explicitly copyrighted are in the Public Domain.
Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.46
Our mailing address is:
The Steel Guitar Forum
148 South Cloverdale Blvd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425 USA
Support the Forum