|
 The Steel Guitar Forum
 Steel Players
 working on steels, (Page 2)
|
| This topic is 4 pages long: 1 2 3 4 |
next newest topic | next oldest topic |
| Author | Topic: working on steels, |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 12 May 2005 06:57 PM
profile
why come the allen wrenchs i grab don't never fit??and when i walk in a store and mention steel guitar.hahahahha they laugh you out of the store. i just get amazed at all the harassing we have to go thru. need a spring,no problem, UNTIL, you tell them what its for!!!then all a once,no we don't have that. farris |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 12 May 2005 07:21 PM
profile
Farris, I know a gentleman named Roy Lunn [used to be the steel player for Faron Young while they were in service togehter] and I think Roy cut some records with Faron but anyway Mr. Roy has some Sho-Bud parts that he is trying to get rid of. I know he has some of the pedal rod belcranks, and various other parts from some Sho-Buds that he has colleted over the years. Best I remember they have the hex holes for hex rods. I am buying a new set of Sho-Bud pedals from him to go on a lefthanded guitar that I am building from scratch for myself. I have bought from him before and he was fair with me. I will probably see or talk with Mr. Roy tomorro if you are interested. |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 12 May 2005 07:32 PM
profile
I forgot to comment on your subject. There ain't nothin I'd rather do than piddle with a paddle,,er pedal or the rest of a steel. Just finished milling out my first aluminum neck for my guitar. Don't have a machine shop but I found a way to cut the 1" thick aluminum with a table saw with a tungsten carbide tipped blade. I milled the neck out using a hand held router with bits that are tipped with tungsten carbide. Turned out rather nice if I do say so even though it took me three days to mill it out. I clamped a guide down to my work table, a two by twelve board, to keep the cuts straight. So if you can think of anything you can do with pounds and pounds of little aluminum chips let me know and I will send them to you as soon as my wife gets them picked out of various parts of my head, neck and shoulder.... Not to mention the ones I set down on.. I'll give you those free.. |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 12 May 2005 08:55 PM
profile
Winston,bless your heart my friend.that had to blistered you all over man.did you use coolant,or dry cut? i have turned a saw blade backwards before to cut tin,those chips will burn your up.if i could help you in any way,don't fail to call.building a steel with no machines is a killer,i know. what are you gonna do for the rest of the parts? sure hope your not building a double neck? God Bless You I'm trying to get away from the hex stuff,they break and do not stay tight. see what he got if you will. Thanks Winston. farris |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 04:50 AM
profile
I'll talk to him today. He lives in Jackson, MS. Thats where I'm headed this morning.. He has more than the Sho-Bud parts but I can't remember what else. Had some MSA parts but I bought most of those. I'll see what all he has for you.. No I'm not useing coolant. All dry.. Building a double neck. I guess I'll be milling the endplates and the keyhead also. Don't have an outlet for parts down this way. I was a machinist for 35 years. Built a machine shop to build pedal steels in 1974, got to doing work for the oilfield and the only steel I ever built while I had the equipment was to convert an MSA SS to lefthanded. Been playing it for 25 years. Good little guitar. I use an Emmons 1966 single coil on the front neck that I took off of a '66 p/p that I have. Thinking about restoring it.. Do you know any parts manufacturers that I could contact for undercarrige parts. I am building my changers out of 316 stainless and want to stay stainless all the way on the underside. Cutting the changers is another story although I have found someone to burn them with plasma. Cuts as clean as a punch press and no die to buy.. |
|
Ron Steenwijk Member From: Greensburg,PA |
posted 13 May 2005 05:10 AM
profile
Winston, try Wayne Link from Linkonguitars. http://www.linkonguitars.ca Ron [This message was edited by Ronald Steenwijk on 13 May 2005 at 05:16 AM.] |
|
David Doggett Member From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 07:56 AM
profile
I guess if I had more time, I would enjoy working on my pedal steels more. But with four kids, a day job, and three or four bands to practice and gig with, I just can't find the time to fiddle with changes as much as I would like. Once I know I want to try a new change, I put it off forever. With my unis it is never simple. I always have to take apart some unrelated stuff and put it all back together again. I have a 12-string push-pull that I play as a universal. But I have never gotten around to adding pedals 5, 7 and 8. I'm going to have to send it to someone eventually. I also have a D12 Carter. I wanted to put a Sacred Steeler E7 tuning on the outside neck, and make the inside neck a universal. But that turns out to be a much bigger job than I thought, and it may never happen. It would be nice if all my guitars were the same brand, so I could lay in a versatile supply of rods and bellcranks. But they are each different, and I'm always running out of the right part. But it does feel great when I get that new change added and tuned up and start playing with it. [This message was edited by David Doggett on 13 May 2005 at 07:58 AM.] |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 03:10 PM
profile
Ronald, thanks for the link, I've sent him an emai.. No, I'm not working on the 66 p/p right now. I'm completely building a left handed guitar from scratch. Aluminum necks are modeled after the MSA. Designing and building my own changer which is basically the same as the ones that have been on all pulls for years but with a few changes. Farris I went to see Mr. Roy Lunn today. He has an assortment of Emmons P/P bellcranks, like new if they aren't new, 4 Emmons Knee Lever assembleys (these are from a newer model Emmons I believe), Emmons rod collars and rods, some Emmons pedal rods with the hex pedal connectors and an assortment of springs, bushings, pedal rods etc. He doesn't have a real big supply of stuff and would like to sell it all as a package. He's reasonable, sold me 8 new Show-Bud pedals for 8 dollars each [I gave him 12 each]. His number is 601-853-0013. He said it was okay for anyone to call him. He turned 77 yesterday. Played for me some while I was there. He still is very smooth. |
|
Jennings Ward Member From: Edgewater, Florida, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 05:18 PM
profile
FERRIS, NOW IS YOUR CHANCE TO GET SOME ALM, SHAVINGS FOR FILLER IN YOUR POSSUM SAUSAGE...JUST THE STUFF TO SHIP OVERSEA. WONT RUST......YOU HAD BETTER GRAB THOSE PARTS AS A PACKAGE DEAL.... YOU KNOW HOW HARD TO FIN AND MAKE, PLUS THE MATERIAL WILL COST YOU MORE RAW.....GO FOR IT...... YA'LL DONT FORGET TO VOTE, VOTE VOTE......JENNINGS ------------------ |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 07:56 PM
profile
Jennings,I guess you know ya'll need to mix some wood shavings or floor dry with the possum sausage. Possum grease works on humans like fat meet works on a goose. It's so slick that it runs right through you. We ate so much possum, squirrel, rabbits and wild game when I was a kid someone could stomp their feet and it would take us three days to find our way back out of the woods. When ya'll start selling coon skin caps made out of possum hides, send me a couple dozen. |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 08:32 PM
profile
working on steels,Jennings take the possums to the other thread man.we are working on steels here.i'm really admiring the hard work that WINSTON put in to build his parts man,thats wanting them bad.we take it all for granit,i have a milling machine ect.but everone doesn't have all that.Winston i'm so proud of you to have that kind of spunk. No Jennings i didn't say SKUNK. farris |
|
Jennings Ward Member From: Edgewater, Florida, USA |
posted 13 May 2005 08:35 PM
profile
WINSTON,, FERRIS IS THE SAUSAGE MAN....HE ONLY OUTS THE FINEST INGREDIENTS IN HIS SAUSAGE,,,,,MAINLY ANYTHING THAT IS AVAILABLE AND NOT NAILED DOWN,,,,HE SENT ME SOME THAT HAD CANADIAN GOOSE QUACKERS,, AFTER EATING FOR SUPPER, YOU QUACKED ALL NITE,, MORE NOISE THAN PINTO BEANS......WATCH FERRIS,,,,,,HE GOOD.... FERRIS BUY THOSE PARTS AND YOU CAN MAKE ME A WIDGET, I DO NOT WANT A PUSH/PULL, I WANT PULL/PUSH, SO I CAN PPLAY IT WITH MY LEFT HANDED BAR WITH THE BULL NOSE IN THE MIDDLE.. AND YOU CAN PAINT IT PINK AND COVER WIH POSSUM SKIN......YOU GET THE IDEA......JENNINGS........ ------------------ |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 14 May 2005 06:58 AM
profile
Sorry about the possum jokes Farris.  Actually I bet a boy that owns a NC Mill that I would have my necks built by hand quicker than he would get me some made on his mill.. He is dragging his feet.. Now I've about decided to build every part on it by hand because the one neck is turning out so well. I'll start on the second one Monday. The end plates will be a lot easier to rout out. I cut the changer parts out with a high speed die grinder using a 1/32 wide x 3" diameter wheel and finish to size using micrometers and a file. You can hold to .001 of an inch with a file believe it or not. Thats about 1/2 a hair. I'm gonna also do the pedals..... I Think... Boy 89 degrees is hot out in the sun.. Gotta find a shade somewhere.  |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 14 May 2005 09:54 AM
profile
Winston,you got my complete respect my friend.yes it can be done,wow you doing something most will not attempt. Wondering building it backwards,will the music come out backwards!!!!haha my wife is left handed,i always give her a hard time tooooo. |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 14 May 2005 01:17 PM
profile
wondering,how many really check their steel out good??i put mine on the table today,came up with 15 items that needed worked on:First had loose Knee pedals,2nd stops for foot pedals,two were loose,nuts had backed off a lots.3rd,rods were crooked,needed lining,4th two keys were completely loose. 5th after checking solder joints to jack,they were bad,i got a new heavy duty soldering gun wellers,so i took all wires off,cleaned and resoldered,looks fine now.6th end plate screws were loose. 7th,5th string was buzzing,cleaned and polished top of pullers, 8th took rollers out cleaned,oiled,checked for free wheeling, 9th.tightened all puller fingers,some were loose. 10th.adjusted the pickup height,which was crooked,leaning back bad.11th cleaned the fret board which was dirty and hard to see. 12th.pedal rod nuts were loose,adjust and tighten. 13th oiled pedals,and linkage,make them free moving. 14th.change strings put on new set. 15th.polish and clean whole guitar.wow when i finished,thought i had a new guitar. steels need servicing just like anything else. try it you'll see the difference farris |
|
Jennings Ward Member From: Edgewater, Florida, USA |
posted 14 May 2005 01:58 PM
profile
FERRIS, WANT TO DO ALL THAT TO MINE????????JW ------------------ |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 15 May 2005 04:24 PM
profile
Jennings i be more than glad to work on that push-pull.but it is time consuming you know,i might have to keep it for a year to get all just right!!!but you are playing all those other guitars,so you won't have to be in a hurry huh.!!!! COMMENTS on how is the best way to pick out a pickup for a steel??I've just always bought a hotter pickup.I never liked the sho-bud little 3/16 magnets.just seemed to little to really work good. I like the T T,Wallace with the big magnets,but this is just my thinking.anyone got some detail information on it. farris |
|
Jennings Ward Member From: Edgewater, Florida, USA |
posted 16 May 2005 05:58 PM
profile
FERRIS, PICKUPS ARE THE MOST MISSUNDERSTOOD PART OF THE INSTRUMENT....NO TWO ALIKE,,,A LOT OF VARABLES......BIGGER MAGNETS NOT ALWAYS THE BEST... TOO MUCH MAGNETIC PULL ON STRINGS.. NEXT TIME I TALK TO YOU I'LL TRY TO EXPLAIN IF I CAN.....WIRE, SIZE OF COIL, TYPE OF MAGNET, STRENGTH OF MAGNET, WAY WOUND, AND A LOT MORE THINGS COME INTO PLAY..... HOPE THIS HELPS SOME......JENNINGS. ------------------ |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 16 May 2005 07:59 PM
profile
Well,after all my work getting ready,i had mover my D lever to lower Es to RkL,i started tuning to play,here comes the band. 8th string won't lower enough,my first thought was to move the stop away some more,then i said wait!!not enough slack in the linkage.so i turned guitar over quick,moved the linkage out 2holes to give it a longer stroke,then backed adj,nylon screw off,string went flat,i had more travel,retuned steel,all was fine. many times without giving any thought,we get our selves in more trouble.if i had moved the stop screw more away,would not have helped the problem at all,got to have slack. i think i learned a valuable lesson there. played for 3hrs tonight,not one bit of problem.moral of the story is know your guitar,and how it works,then study it before you work on it. could save a fine guitar. farris |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 16 May 2005 08:52 PM
profile
Farris, lots of people get into trouble by not haveing enough slack in their pull rods. If you can leave you foot off the pedal and unscrew you tuning nut and the string starts droping you are running your linkage too close. Some people like their string to move when they touch the pedal. I don't. I like a very small bit of slack.. Started on my second neck for my D-10 today. Almost finished it. I believe I could have if my little Sears and Roebuck router handn't bit the dust. Most of the housing was moulded plastic and when it got too hot the bearings gave way in the bearing housing, started spinning which, I think, gave everything enough slack to short a couple of wires in the coil.. Ran and got me a new one with a metal housing, 1 3/4 H.P.. Boy will that thing move some metal with the carbide bits. You need to try the carbide bits in your mill if you don't have some already. You can probably turn the mill wide open which will allow you to run your feed 4 or 5 times as fast. The 3/8" bits are only about 9 dollars.. Lot cheaper than High Speed Steel and sooooooooo much faster.. What kind of mill do you have, a Bridgeport or copy? |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 16 May 2005 09:29 PM
profile
Winston,you are so right about the linkage,i am bad about letting it get to tight,then if not very careful be playing out of tune.also when i lean my left ft.to A F pedals if i'm not really careful will still be touching B pedal just enough to be out of tune.i'm like you,i want a little slack in there.i have adjusted so much,trying to get the foot pedals just right height,its amazing what one turn will do on a pedal rod. if i well to build my own,i think i would use a finer thread on them.but thats usually not a big deal i guess. i get my A pedal little higher than B seems to work at the time. also my A pedal is to far to suit me towards the left end of the guitar. That would be a major change to move all over though,so i will learn to use it like it is i guess. My mills got 2 old one,they are true bridge ports,but they are old.Hand feed,ect. one does have power down feed, i use cool mist spray a lots on milling. spray it on. Yep,i know about those power tools,man i use to buy best i could get,and still smell them burning. hand grinders, chop saws, i always heard that millwakee was the best but thats a bunch of bull. I personally have better luck with Makitia Well,sounds like you are well on your way my friend,keep in touch. Thanks farris |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 18 May 2005 07:25 AM
profile
Farris, man I didn't have any idea you had so many posts and emails to answer. Sorry about bugging you so much. Thought I had found me a good friend to bounce things off of but looks like your a friend to 90% of the guys on the forum... Keep'um going.. If I can help you anyway give me call, I think you have my phone number and email address. If not let me know and I send it.. I hate to get back into this but you gotta know.. There have been millions of test run and it has been proven that nothing greased with ****** grease has ever rusted.. Well I don't know that for a fact but thats what I've been told. |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 18 May 2005 07:39 AM
profile
Winston,you not bothering me one bit man,i can't find your phone number,so please email me if you will!!you ask me where i live,central Florida.i'll tell you the rest in a email.I'm still working on my steel getting things good as possible for tomorrow night in Tampa.don't want old SHO-BUD falling down on me.also using a new PEAVY 112 amp.that little rascal will talk. yep,I'm so thankful for each and ever FRIEND TOOOOO LOVE EACH ONE. farris |
|
Larry Strawn Member From: Golden Valley, Arizona, USA |
posted 18 May 2005 12:02 PM
profile
Farris,,, Ever tried "Sok" penetrating oil when machining alum.???? We use it at the shop,, works really well for us. Won't gum up, get good clean holes, and smooth cuts. give it a try, kinda pricy, but worth it I think. My last machinist was a "flake" but he was good at what he did, he turned us on to it. Larry [This message was edited by Larry Strawn on 18 May 2005 at 12:16 PM.] [This message was edited by Larry Strawn on 18 May 2005 at 12:18 PM.] |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 24 May 2005 08:21 AM
profile
Sorry guys,been off for a while,Larry i don't know exactly what that is,i always used alum.cut,cutting fluid or kool mist sprayed on. Reading the post over on steel guitars,sho-bud guitars. |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 24 May 2005 09:35 AM
profile
I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or secrets on taking your guitar all apart.do you make notes? or just tear it apart,??how do you know what to put where??I'm fixing to strip my sho-bud professional,and change all new parts from John Coop,so guess i'll be stripping it all the way.Could get very confusing,i am taking all the baskets out ect. farris |
|
Clyde Lane Member From: Glasgow, Kentucky, USA |
posted 24 May 2005 09:42 AM
profile
A picture is worth a thousand words. For me that is the best way. Clyde |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 24 May 2005 11:19 AM
profile
Thanks CLYDE,i have a new HP dig.camera,still trying to figure it out.I thought i was deleteing stuff,and looked to ck it.man i have pictures of my feet the floor and everything else,haha i'll get sooner or later. thats a cool idea,then i'll learn to put them on my computer and print them, gosh this world of eletronics. farris |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 27 May 2005 02:40 PM
profile
ok guys,looking for help,as many knows i just bought a 70s emmons from George King,and i don't know much at all about them.all i know is what i hear that they have that sound.I will be needing information on how to work on them and how to take care ect. i have built steels,and owned sho-buds ect all pulls. anyway i'm excepting this challenge.don't know much at all about a push pull, but fixing to learn i guess. farris |
|
Jennings Ward Member From: Edgewater, Florida, USA |
posted 27 May 2005 05:21 PM
profile
FERRIS AS KINK OF THE POSSUMS I TELL YOU THIS YOU DO NOT TARE UP AN EMMONS.. THE ONLY THING YOU DO IS THIS. PLAY THE STEEL AND MAKE THOSE BEAUTIFUL ANGELIC SOUND, WHICH ARE HEAVENLY...... NO TIME TO TINKER......FROM YOUR KING....JENNINGS ------------------ |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 27 May 2005 05:52 PM
profile
To the KING, JENNINGS I'VE been told when you break a string on a emmons,you just change it and go.Thats so hard to believe, dont have to tune it at all??man thats so hard to believe.I'M use to haveing to retune after a string break.man tell me the truth now.you mean when i tune open,it falls right in to place???wow i can't hardly wait. farris |
|
Jennings Ward Member From: Edgewater, Florida, USA |
posted 27 May 2005 08:46 PM
profile
FERRIS THAT IS CORRECT...ONCE YOU TUNE ,YOU IS THERE, PLAY THE DANG THING, NO MESSING AROUND GUESSING....A SET OF STRINGS WILL LAST A YEAR ON MINE, I ONLY CHANGE THE BECAUSE I GET A GUILTY FEELING BY READING ABOUT TUNING PROBLEMS AND STRINGS BREAKING...... I PLAY STEEL FOR THAT BEAUTIFUL ANGELIC SOUND...NOW YOU CAN TO WITH YOUR EMMONS .P/P.... YOULL NOT BE SORRY.... YOUR KING SPEAKS;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ------------------ |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 27 May 2005 08:59 PM
profile
Dang Jennings,gonna put the string companys out of bussiness.once a yr. man they can't stay in bussiness like that. hell seymore have to layoff all those pretty girls he got.IF emmons really that good i man have lots of stuff to sell.huh farris |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 28 May 2005 08:03 AM
profile
Farris, thats true about the Emmons p/p staying in tune!!!!! Haven't had to tune mine since 1986......... Course it hasn't had any strings on it since 1985, he, he.. But seriously, it does stay in tune extremely well if you have everything adjusted out well and leave slack where slack is supposed to be.. Most people I've seen gets into trouble on the p/p by not leaving enough slack and having enough pedal travel between the lowering of the E's and the raising with the C pedal. Get that right and you've got it "licked". No pun intended.. Hey Farris, I have discovered a really easy way to get a mirror shine on aluminum without all the greasy kid stuff and the heat transfer that everyone has been telling me that you have to go through to shine aluminum... I'll tell you for 1 hickory cured p 0 s s 0 m ham..... |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 28 May 2005 08:38 AM
profile
Farris, don't know if my last reply posted because internet explorer said it cancelled the operation.. Love my computer.... So I'm going to make this one shorter.. Remember to keep plenty slack and plenty pedal travel between lowering the E's and raising them with the C pedal. I've found over the years that this is where most players get in trouble setting their p/p's up.. And the other thing I mentioned in the post was that I have found a way to polish the aluminum with out all of the heat and hassle that everyone has told me lately that you have to go through to get a mirror shine... You can see so far behind you in mine that you can brush your gggg grandfathers false teeth for him............... Well not quite that far back... |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 28 May 2005 09:02 AM
profile
Winston,thank you for info.i will be talking to you soon about the guitar stuff!! I'm getting excited on getting started with the Emmons push pull.heard so much about them.know what you mean about slack.any guitar must have slack to work proper.Well i got a lots of learning to do,and appreciate all the help i can get. This forum is the greatest. farris |
|
PAUL WARNIK Member From: OAK LAWN,IL,USA |
posted 29 May 2005 12:00 PM
profile
I buy almost every old neglected but salvageable pedal steel that I can find around here-Then spend money and time to get them back to optimum playing condition-Then I wind up selling them for little or nothing more than I invested in them just to keep working to "rescue" old horns that I hate to see not being used or appreciated-Having something to do on the workbench fills in for when Mother Nature doesn't allow for other pastimes like goin' fishin'  |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 29 May 2005 12:41 PM
profile
Welcome aboard Paul, i do the same thing!!! never made no money on steels,but oh at the fun we have huh. I'm not a good horse trader,just want every old steel to keep blessing people. man can stand to see one go in the trash. farris |
|
Winston Street Member From: Laurel, Mississippi, USA |
posted 29 May 2005 07:55 PM
profile
Farris, found me a little 5 ft long South Bend lath for $500.00.. Just right for turning cross rod ends and making bushings that are hard to find.. Boy just lucked up on that sucker.. It's in perfect shape for an old lathe.. |
|
Farris Currie Member From: Ona, Florida, USA |
posted 30 May 2005 12:37 AM
profile
Winston,man you are lucky,thats a good size too. I love the south bend laths. my lath is really too big for my little work. it is 18"swing x 6ft. chucks 10" fine for big stuff but too large for steel parts.i use to have a little south bend with collets man sure could use that now. |
This topic is 4 pages long: 1 2 3 4 All times are Pacific (US) | next newest topic | next oldest topic |
 |
|
Contact Us | The Pedal Steel Pages
Note: Messages not explicitly copyrighted are in the Public Domain.
Powered by Infopop www.infopop.com © 2000
Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.46