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  How many use Jeff Newman's tuning chart? (Page 1)

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Author Topic:   How many use Jeff Newman's tuning chart?
Terry Sneed
Member

From: El Dorado, Arkansas, USA

posted 15 September 2006 08:29 PM     profile     
I don't want to start another thread about which way is best to tune, I'd just like to know who has used Jeff's chart, and have you compared it to straight up 440? Which is best for you?

Terry

------------------
Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.


Michael Douchette
Member

From: Gallatin, TN

posted 15 September 2006 09:10 PM     profile     
Basically "440" for me. It's how every other instrument I work with is tuned, so I sound like them. I do allow a bit (just a bit) for the cab drop. I do not use anything similar to Jeff's chart.

------------------
Mikey D...


Calvin Walley
Member

From: colorado city colorado, USA

posted 15 September 2006 09:54 PM     profile     
Jeff's chart is the only one i have ever used
Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 15 September 2006 10:31 PM     profile     
You cannot use one chart for every steel guitar. A steel guitar has to be tuned to itself. Cabinet drop on the E's and 6th string being a factor.
Jack Francis
Member

From: Mesa, Arizona, USA

posted 15 September 2006 10:48 PM     profile     
I always have used Jeff's for sure!
(Might as well, I even use one of his old guitars.)
Brendan Mitchell
Member

From: Melbourne Australia

posted 16 September 2006 12:37 AM     profile     
I used it and pretty well , knew it off by heart but when I changed tuner I could not relate to the chart any more so now I tune to 440 and touch up by ear . I don't worry about the other instruments , if mine sounds out of tune it throws me right off .
Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 16 September 2006 02:42 AM     profile     
I use Jeff's original chart, with the E's at "zero", with modifications for my guitar. But basically it's Jeff's original chart.

I've used it for years. I used to tune everything at zero when I first got an old Korg WT-12 tuner and everyone told me I was out of tune. Once I started using Jeff's chart no one ever told me I was out of tune. That was good enough for me.

Michael Douchette
Member

From: Gallatin, TN

posted 16 September 2006 04:00 AM     profile     
"Once I started using Jeff's chart no one ever told me I was out of tune."

Now this is the perfect example of how what works for one doesn't work for another. I tried it once, on one show, years ago, when I was with Tammy Wynette. Everybody in the band afterward asked me what happened. Our guitar player said (I will NEVER forget his line), "You sounded flatter than a day old plate of pi$$!"

After I went back to 440, we did some shows with one of our fellow forum members. He sat down to my guitar at a soundcheck, messed with it, and came up to me and said, "Mike, I don't understand it. That's the most out of tune steel I've ever sat down to in my life... but when YOU play it, it is dead on the money. How does that work?" I explained it to him...

------------------
Mikey D...


Frank Parish
Member

From: Nashville,Tn. USA

posted 16 September 2006 04:12 AM     profile     

I tried that 440 method too because one of the local steelers told me that BE tuned that way. After a while I think you get used to anything. He told me it sounded out and you could hear the waves but when you played with the band it was fine. I think the band drowned out the waves. I tune the E's to 440 pedals down and the rest pretty much by ear and it sounds sweeter to me than it ever did with the 440 method. I'm somewhere around the Newman method but mostly I tune the guitar to be in tune with itself. If I can hear the waves then it's out. The band may drown the waves out but they're still there. I could never go back to the straight up 440 method.
Michael Douchette
Member

From: Gallatin, TN

posted 16 September 2006 04:30 AM     profile     
Frank, the band didn't "drown out" the waves; you didn't hear them because they matched everyone else's waves. There are supposed to be waves. Hit a third on a piano; you'll hear plenty of waves. The notion of tuning the waves out is something other instruments just can't do. Fiddle players have a choice; they can lay their fingers where they want and have no waves (better for personal enjoyment) or sharpen the thirds where they should be (better for ensemble playing).

------------------
Mikey D...


Ernie Pollock
Member

From: Mt Savage, Md USA

posted 16 September 2006 05:15 AM     profile     
I have tuned straight up to my Korg tuner for about 7 years now, I have never been accused of being out of tune & it sounds so good with tracks & keyboards. I tune all notes & pedal changes to 440, that goes for E9th & C6th. I am however, not trying to convert anyone who wants to tune flat.

Sign me

never been happier

Ernie

------------------

Frank Parish
Member

From: Nashville,Tn. USA

posted 16 September 2006 06:46 AM     profile     
Mike
Ever watch a piano tuner tune a grand piano? He may have a middle C tuned to 440 but the rest of the notes are all over the place. I think 440 is just a reference point. I don't believe there is supposed to be waves or beats in there either. I read where the pedal steel guitar is a temper tuned instrument meaning not all the notes are tuned the same or to 440. I will say that tuning everything to 440 kind of gives it an edgy feel. I don't know if that's good or bad but probably more of an opinion than anything. I was tuning it all up to 440 and one night I needed a sub on short notice so he came in and played my guitar. When I got back it was all retuned to something around the Newman method and it sounded so much better to me that I wouldn't go back to that 440 way ever. I haven't been accused of being out of tune with either method but prefer the one I have now. I never heard of everyones waves matching.
Gary Preston
Member

From: Columbus, Ohio, USA

posted 16 September 2006 07:24 AM     profile     
And the ''Beat ''goes on ! I suppose i'm confused about all this . It's hard for me to believe that we all can be in tune with the band when we have different tunings . I don't see how any steel can be in tune straight up at 440 . Maybe if we all tune to the same settings it would be close or all in tune or out of tune ! I do know that all guitars don't have the same ''cabinet drop '' . Also it's hard to understand how any quality steel could have so much drop that you have to tune the ''E's'' to 442.5 . Thats not good ! I have tried most of these tunings and i have to use the ''E's'' at 440 and temper tune the rest to my ear ,maybe thats not the best either but it's the best i have . Best regards , Gary .
Erv Niehaus
Member

From: Litchfield, MN, USA

posted 16 September 2006 07:38 AM     profile     
I tune to Jeff's old chart with the E's at 440.
Ronald Bear
Member

From: Newark, Ohio, USA

posted 16 September 2006 08:31 AM     profile     
Straight up tuners. Lets see if i have this right. All i need to tune Van Cliburns piano is tuner & a cresent wrench. Tune them all straight up. HUH. I have never played with a in tune keyboard. Compared to a in tune piano they are at best TOYS. Ron
Bill Moore
Member

From: Manchester, Michigan

posted 16 September 2006 08:33 AM     profile     
I was just looking at one of Jeff's courses, "An E9th Chord Dictionary", on the last couple pages, he shows his tuning chart. He says: "You don'r have to know why it works, it just does". I agree, I've always used it. It sounds good to me.

------------------
Bill Moore...
my steel guitar web page


Bobby Lee
Sysop

From: Cloverdale, North California, USA

posted 16 September 2006 09:06 AM     profile     
I tuned my guitar by ear and measured it with a tuner to make my own tuning chart. I used to be a real stickler for fine tuning, down to fractions of a cent. I just don't care about it so much any more. I tune to the tick marks on the tuner.

------------------
Bobby Lee (a.k.a. b0b) - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Williams D-12 E9, C6add9, Sierra Olympic S-12 (F Diatonic)
Sierra Laptop S-8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster D-8 (E13, C6 or A6) My Blog

Eric West
Member

From: Portland, Oregon, USA

posted 16 September 2006 11:44 AM     profile     
I'm avoiding these "tuning threads" if I can Terry. I think it's a bigger waste of time than I want to include in my full schedule..

Tuning anything "flat or sharp" except for strange things like playing with an out of tune piano, never made any sense to me. I was playing twenty years full time, steadily and as successfully as I wanted to until I found out people actually tuned differently. At first I laughed, seeing how many years I have been aware of the difficulties of an arbitrary, mathematical stretched "equally divided" scale, and then after reading miles of incoherent horsehocky, I began to get concerned that new players were liable to get hopelessly confused by this nonsense.

The last "Tuning" thread from a new player was a perfect example.

I think the basic problems I've had with some of the systems here are that in explaining them, people seem to get either too wordy, or insulting.

Then there's a famous guy, inarguably the most famous guy of all that tunes his guitar "straight up". No bones about it, and "a cent or two on the G#, STRICTLY for temperature changes".

Astoundingly, all the insults (and wordy "theorums") seem to vanish.

Except behind his back I suppose..

I think the other Absolute "Top Guy" I have talked to has only one simple "Theorum", and one worn old chromatic pitchpipe. He says, and I quote: "Just tune the %*<#ing thing, and play it."

It can be as complicated as you want it.

Should you run out of reasons to get out there and play live with other musicians, "tuning issues" will do just fine.

Or reasons to argue with them.

To answer your original post header, I tried it for the heck of it, but there were too many things it put out of whack for me, like accidentals in single note runs, and pedal/kl combos I like to use.

Major chords with partially minored thirds hae always sounded bland and lifeless to me.

Certainly nothing wrong with doing anything but sitting home from my point of view, but then that's just me.. Others must, from physical or mental different/ableness, or just plain "do their best work there".

EJL

(PS To Terry.

I know you're a guitar player. Try this.

Fuzz out your amp.

Play an unflattened major third interval.

Listen to the beats. I think it's six per second or so.

Then play the same interval with a Fifth and another octave of the root. Same distortion.

No "beats". Not if you add another root note at an octave.

I guess, then, a person could say that if the "root" of a chord is so imprinted in a persons' mind from playing and listening for 50 years, you might just "supply" it in your mind's ear.

Even when in actually it's a note that "no longer exists"..

I loved that one...(b0b)

Now go out and PLAY.)

Perry Keeter
Member

From: Hemet, CA, USA

posted 16 September 2006 11:54 AM     profile     
I use Jeff's chart. Just about got it memorized. It sounds good every time.
John Bechtel
Member

From: Nashville, Tennessee,U.S.A.

posted 16 September 2006 12:02 PM     profile     
I only use a Tuner for my Basic~Pitch on each neck. The E-Neck = (E)–Straight~up at 440Hz. and the C-Neck = (C)–Straight~up at 440Hz. Then I tune each neck to itself! I've always done it this way and was never accused of being out of tune! As long as the neck is in-tune with itself, there's no problem adjusting (compensating) with the bar, which is actually what you're doing for every note you ever play using the bar! Think about it! The Magic~Word is: “[{(COMPENSATE)}]”

------------------
“Big John”
a.k.a. {Keoni Nui}
Current Equipment

Gene Jones
Member

From: Oklahoma City, OK USA

posted 16 September 2006 12:18 PM     profile     
*

[This message was edited by Gene Jones on 17 September 2006 at 03:10 AM.]

KENNY KRUPNICK
Member

From: Grove City,Ohio

posted 16 September 2006 04:49 PM     profile     
I drop the everything 2.0 hertz. Instead of 442.5,I go 440.5. That allows any minimal body drop,and tune the 2 F# strings, to 440 instead of 439.5.
I forgot to add,I drop 2.0 hertz on the C6th also.440.5 on the C strings,and temper everything else accordingly. The 10th string isnt at 440.5 though.

[This message was edited by KENNY KRUPNICK on 17 September 2006 at 05:00 PM.]

Billy Henderson
Member

From: Portland, AR, USA

posted 16 September 2006 05:53 PM     profile     
Terry have you tried the Peterson Tuner?
Paul Redmond
Member

From: Illinois, USA

posted 16 September 2006 06:56 PM     profile     
Kevin, you nailed it!! I have to "shade" all my guitars a bit due to drop except the Whitney's which don't drop. They are tuned straight 440. Each guitar IS different, so a one-size-fits-all chart will only guarantee that your guitar has been tuned very precisely out of tune.
PRR
Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 17 September 2006 02:31 AM     profile     
As I mentioned earlier, I use the Jeff Newman - referenced at 440 - but it's modified so that my guitar is in tune with itself.

That's why the Peterson pre-programmed settings don't work for everyone - They are the Jeff Newman settings. That was the main point I tried to get across to the Peterson rep at St Louis last year. He knows a lot about tuning but not about the individualized tuning that needs to be done for each steel guitar. "One size doesn't fit all" when it comes to tuning.

Dennis Stambaugh
Member

From: New Oxford,Pennsylvania, USA

posted 17 September 2006 04:21 AM     profile     
For Jack Stoner,
Jack you say the guitar has to be in tune with itself.Jack please forgive for being ignorant,actually what does that mean being in tune with itself and how is this done????
Am I making sense ???
Denny
Charlie McDonald
Member

From: Lubbock, Texas, USA

posted 17 September 2006 04:31 AM     profile     
All instruments have a temperament.
A piano has an equal temperament because all notes are mathmatically equally divided, to quote Eric. Pianos must play in all keys and in all styles.

Pedal steel has choices. You can have a justly intoned major third and raise it to a flat (JI) or ET fourth. You can install compensators. You can move the bar to match the pitch.

The choices you make come from your experience. Pianos are not so flexible.

Joe Alterio
Member

From: Fishers, Indiana

posted 17 September 2006 06:28 AM     profile     
It's funny....I originally tuned using Jeff's E at 442.5 chart. Then, when I started to record myself with my band, I always sounded out of tune upon playback. So, I tuned everything to 440. But, when I played at home I sounded horribly out of tune, yet when I played with the band I now sounded wonderfully in tune.

More recently, though, my ears are hearing things differently and I seem to sound out of tune with everything at 440, regardless the setting (at home or with the band). So, I decided to go back to Jeff's tuning.

So, as of today, I tune using Jeff's chart. This may change...again!

Jack Stoner
Sysop

From: Inverness, Florida

posted 17 September 2006 06:59 AM     profile     
Denny, being in tune with itself is just another way of saying it has to be in tune. You can't take a chart and make every setting on that chart work for every guitar or for every guitar picker.

In my case, for example with the Jeff Newman chart, the chart says to set the "B pedal" A raise (from G# to A) to minus 2.5 Hz or - 6 cents. On my guitar I've found that -.5Hz (-2 cents) is the setting for my guitar for the A's to be in tune. Another example is the bass C string on the C6th neck, the Newman chart says to set the open C at -4Hz (-16 cents) but I've found that -2 Hz (-8 cents) is the optimum setting for that string on my guitar.

Terry Sneed
Member

From: El Dorado, Arkansas, USA

posted 17 September 2006 11:25 AM     profile     
quote:
I'm avoiding these "tuning threads" if I can Terry. I think it's a bigger waste of time than I want to include in my full schedule..
Tuning anything "flat or sharp" except for strange things like playing with an out of tune piano, never made any sense to me

Eric, you don't have to convince me, I'm a beleiver. I tuned to Jeff's old chart for quite a while, thinkin If it was good enough for Jeff Newman it should be good enough for me. But, when I decided I'd try to tune back straight up, I could tell I was definately more in tune than I was with the chart. Not saying Jeff was wrong, maybe it's the difference in guitars(cabinet drop)or whatever. I've been tuning straight up every since.

Actually though, I didn't mean for this thread to beat a poor old dead horse, that's already had to many whoopins.
I was talkin about the new chart that's on Jeff's website as apposed to straight up.
I was just thinkin if the new chart is different than the old chart, I might give it a try, but I feel like I'd go right back to 440.

Billy, I have a Boss TU 12H tuner. I tune straight up and my guitar sounds very much in tune to my ears. I know the peterson tuners are more accurate, but I'm not sure that my ears could tell the difference if I tuned with a peterson, as opposed to my Boss tuner. But, if I could afford a peterson, I'd probly be using one.


Terry

------------------
Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.


[This message was edited by Terry Sneed on 17 September 2006 at 11:40 AM.]

Eric West
Member

From: Portland, Oregon, USA

posted 17 September 2006 11:48 AM     profile     
Tune it.

Play it.

Heck, you can even type about it.

Or spend time "readin about it" if you don't have anything else to do.

For me it's time to plug in the G&L for a few hours.

EJL

[This message was edited by Eric West on 17 September 2006 at 12:46 PM.]

Bob Cox
Member

From: Portsmouth,Ohio USA

posted 17 September 2006 04:02 PM     profile     
I always push pedals down a-b tune e's and "a" note then tune the remaining strings pedal's up to 440 then make one last check on the beats.Seems to be good to go.c6 straight up.
Bob Watson
Member

From: Champaign, Illinois, U.S.

posted 17 September 2006 09:14 PM     profile     
I used the Jeff Newman tuning chart for years. Now I tune my E9 to 440 except I tune the G#'s a little flat (435) and the C#'s a little flat (437.5). I tune the C6 straight up. This works for me.
Larry Bell
Member

From: Englewood, Florida

posted 18 September 2006 07:53 AM     profile     
435 or even 437.5 is not A LITTLE FLAT
435 is TWENTY CENTS FLAT (1/5 of a fret)

------------------
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps

Ray Minich
Member

From: Limestone, New York, USA

posted 18 September 2006 10:33 AM     profile     
Gimme an "E" and the rest just seem to find themselves. One pluck across each string and I can tell what has to be tweaked.
Bringing a fresh 3rd string up always makes me want to wear safety glasses though...
Bowie Martin
Member

From: Wilson, NC USA 27896

posted 18 September 2006 05:38 PM     profile     
I use Jeff's newer chart, with the E at 442.5, and have never had a complaint or reason to change. And with all the other help and correct info he gave me, think I will just stick with it. He might not have have known everything, but he sure spent a lot more time and effort working on this stuff than anyone else I have run into, and it will be along time before anyone fills his shoes.
David Doggett
Member

From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

posted 18 September 2006 07:26 PM     profile     
When I tune my Es slightly sharp to account for some "stretch" tuning on the high strings, and to account for half of about 8 cents (2 Hz) cabinet drop, and tune everything else by ear, I end up with something very close to Jeff's newer chart with Es tuned to a 442.5 reference. I agree with Kevin and Jack that each guitar is a little different. Ideally one would tune the guitar perfect to your ears, and check a meter and write down your own personal chart (for when you can't tune by ear). However, there is a rule of thumb that anything within about 5 cents (about 1 Hz in the vicinity of 440 Hz) is acceptable for playing. So I also agree with b0b that time spent chasing accuracy closer than that is probably wasted. The 0.5 Hz (about 2 cents) accuracy stipulated in Jeff's chart may come from some mathematical calculation of stretch or cabinet drop. That kind of accuracy is dang hard to hear, and dang hard to dial in with the typical tuning keys on a steel guitar. Likewise, that 0.1 cent accuracy some meters advertise is completely wasted on a Klutz like me. If I could tune to that accuracy, it wouldn't help when I hit the wrong string and drop the bar between my legs.

[This message was edited by David Doggett on 18 September 2006 at 07:31 PM.]

David Wren
Member

From: Placerville, California, USA

posted 19 September 2006 12:12 PM     profile     
Kind-sorta use jeff's chart... except I tune Pedal B to straight up 440, and adjust accordingly.

------------------
Dave Wren
'96 Carter S12-E9/B6,7X7; NV 112; Fender Twin Custom 15 ('65 reissue); Session 500s; Hilton Pedal; Black Box
www.ameechapman.com


Larry Robertson
Member

From: Colorado, USA

posted 19 September 2006 06:23 PM     profile     
Ya mean we're supposed to tune this thing before ya play it?
David Doggett
Member

From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

posted 19 September 2006 07:13 PM     profile     
Larry, tuning is optional, just like your employment.

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