The ZB masters are smart. They give advice. We, on the other hand are knee deep in pulls! I feel your pain

The first switch R-(front neck) M-(both) L-(back neck). The left switch works the pickups three way sound. See picks of my ZB #0822 pg. 17. Looks to be the same as yours. On the vol and tone controls, I never use them on the older ZB.

Any idea when (appx. what serial number) the ZB logo changed from the old version (as seen on Pete Grant's legendary 0009)

to the rectangular ZB Custom

edit: It looks just like the one pictured above, and it has the extra row of holes between the tuning hex screws. Only difference might be the the inlays on the front. I bought it from a gentleman from the Petaluma Area, and he had it since '72 I believe. at least since '78. So it's a California Bird. ha! It has the black painted undercairrage. I'd like to know if all bakersfield units had the black painted cabinet.

[This message was edited by Mike Vallandigham on 07 June 2005 at 01:56 PM.]

The brown is actually supposed to be red. From what I hear, they used food coloring as stain back then and most of the ZB guitars have faded.

I never would have dreamed of this thread running this long (all good info and great stories, too), so thanks to bOb for keeping it going and allowing it to grow - along with the interest in ZB guitars.

A great question about the different stickers - they definitely changed somewhere in the 68-69 period after Zane moved from Scranton, AK, to Bakersfield. My '67 has a CZB logo with Scranton, Arkansas written on it. I've seen (Pete's?) that's an early Bakersfield with the same CZB logo and "Bakersfield" written on it - I think... Greg Jones says an easy way to identify a Bakersfield guitar or earlier is that they used to have an extra row of holes at the endplate. The Phoenix-build guitars (I have two) all are missing this extra row. It's somewhere in the body of this thread. (:

All ZBest - keep the information coming. And congrats to Greg for building such a beautiful "New/Old" ZB. Greg, it's absolutely gorgeous and I'm sure it plays like a dream.

Larry

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Larry Chung
'67 ZB D-10 8+4 (ser. #1077)
'69 ZB S-10 3+4 (ser. #0124)
'70 ZB D-10 8+4 (ser.# 0215)
'71 ZB Custom S-11 4+4 (ser. #0252)

[This message was edited by Larry Chung on 07 June 2005 at 02:57 PM.]

quote:

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I probably put the decal on that guitar.

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John R.: Wow--cool! The bonus intelligence just keeps on comin'. As I've posted before, ol' #0131 and I were set to travel up to Bakesfield in January (to see Larry Petree about a setup) until an untimely smashup in the rain. I'm about to get another (older, funkier) Oldsmobile roadworthy (been driving an '86 Astro van with 180K miles in the meantime), so maybe I can resume the quest and you and 0131 can renew acquaintances.

Ben

(Am I post #700 yet?)

[This message was edited by Ben Elder on 07 June 2005 at 11:34 PM.]

quote:

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I hope they steal play good after all these years.

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John:

I won't rehash my many past frustrations here (abundantly detailed in past posts) about trying to get 0131 set up and playing (I've only had it about three years; can't answer for the previous 33), but suffice it to say, it needs knowledgeable TLC and might respond to a laying-on of hands from you.

Ben

[This message was edited by Ben Elder on 07 June 2005 at 11:44 PM.]

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Ray Qualls
President(KSGA)

You're over in Concord, which is closeby! C'mon over sometime this summer and I'll be happy to have a look at your setup. The .016 tip is actually more for the even and smooth pull on the C pedal. If you are concerned about the stiffness of your A pedal, you may want to check out how close or far your string tree, cross bar, pedal rod connector, and changer pulls are from the center of leverage. The closer you set these to the fulcrum, the smoother the travel, but the more distance (or pedal throw) you will have. If this is all Greek, just contact me.

What's up Larry, I haven't talked to you in many months. I think you already have info on my guitar. I made a mistake above, the serial is #0102, not 0107...

Anyway. Last night, I checked the screws like you suggested earlier in this monster thread, and found that most were loose. Unfortunately, I fould a 2 that were stripped(not tightening, not a stripped head). Oh well, they're not critical, there are others to hold the parts on. I SWEAR it sounded alot better after just snugging up the loose screws. Good Tip!

As for the A pedal, I have one more inward slot that I can move the shackle to, but I've looked at doing this before, and it looks like the pull rods will interfere with some other pulls. I'll take a look tonight. Maybe I just have to move them around.

Kevin, I'm almost sure they dont stop at the same time, I'll work on that.

Also, how do you guys get to the fingers to apply some blue loctite to the tunung screw threads. My 10th string raise tuning screw is hecka loose, I have to tune it up every few songs. I've put a little dot of white-out on it, so i can visually line it up to where it needs to be with my fingers. So it's not too much of a hassle...

To be honest, I dont play this axe much anymore, I just got it out a few days ago, to celebrate our 1 year anniversary. LOL HAHAHA! So that's why it's out now... Here's a little secret, I've got a spanking new Black Mullen RP D-10, and it's just fantastic. I play that mostly, but the ZB sure has a great sound, but plays like a tank, comparatively.

No Larry or Duncan, it's not for sale.