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  ZB Pedal Steel Guitars - Please help! (Page 30)

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Author Topic:   ZB Pedal Steel Guitars - Please help!
John Rutledge
Member

From: Bakersfield, California, USA

posted 29 July 2006 06:56 PM     profile     
Hey ben
The student model on the post card was a good playing steel. I know because I designed and built it. The body was hard wood (maple). They changed a lot of things on it after I moved back to Bakersfield, trying to make it less expensive to build. I have a picture of it that we took in my office right after I finshed it. Anyway the one on the post card played real good.
John
Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 30 July 2006 07:39 AM     profile     
A little help please guys... I'm buying this guitar, I was told that it was bought in '67. I've played a '72 ZB, can expect the same tone, anything you can tell me about ZBs of this year will be much appreciated.

[This message was edited by Joe A. Camacho on 30 July 2006 at 10:12 AM.]

Bob Hamilton
Member

From: Atascadero, California, USA

posted 30 July 2006 07:49 AM     profile     
Do you know the serial number Joe?
Chuck McGill
Member

From: Jackson, Tn

posted 30 July 2006 11:25 AM     profile     
Joe what a great pedal steel you have there.
She looks like my D10, different color, but it should sound like a dream. Congradulations on your ZB.

[This message was edited by Chuck McGill on 30 July 2006 at 11:27 AM.]

Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 30 July 2006 11:35 AM     profile     
Sorry, I don't know the serial number


Rick Garrett
Member

From: Tyler, Texas

posted 30 July 2006 02:22 PM     profile     
Serial number 1124 bought in May of 68.

I knew it was 67 or 68 Joe. Had to look again myself to make sure.

Rick

B. Greg Jones
Member

From: London, KY USA

posted 30 July 2006 05:28 PM     profile     
Joe, Yer getting a sweetheart of a guitar!!! That one was Zane built and will for sure have the ZB magic to it!!!

Greg

Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 30 July 2006 08:43 PM     profile     
I have 1107. Joe, that guitar is a collector's piece. Great sounding ZB.
Duncan Hodge
Member

From: DeLand, FL USA

posted 30 July 2006 09:17 PM     profile     
Hey Joe,
If you want "that sound" you just bought it. That is one beautiful ZB. It looks like my #0093, Bakersfield 1969 ZB, but mine has been refinished. I swear that it will sound better, or at least have a sound that you have never heard before, even better than the old Marlen.
I still haven't learned to work on mine too well, though.
Duncan
Brendan Mitchell
Member

From: Melbourne Australia

posted 31 July 2006 03:43 AM     profile     
Keuwell
Chuck McGill
Member

From: Jackson, Tn

posted 31 July 2006 01:51 PM     profile     
Does anyone know what an original Case in the late 60's might look like?
Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 02 August 2006 08:19 PM     profile     
I'll shoot you a picture of mine as soon as it arrives!
Rick Garrett
Member

From: Tyler, Texas

posted 04 August 2006 02:18 AM     profile     
You can see part of the case in Joe's guitar pictured above. They were built good and heavy for sure.


Rick

Russ Little
Member

From: Hosston,Louisiana, USA

posted 04 August 2006 11:14 AM     profile     
In a past post faye had a site that listed
serial numbers of Zb's and dates and original
owners.
I tried it today and it no longer works.
anyone have a different site?
Also I just bought a BMI s10 that zane built
would love to know the history on it
Its number 546 anyone have any info on it
or maybe faye's email address she may have
some records on it
Thanks Russ
Russ Tkac
Member

From: Waterford, Michigan, USA

posted 05 August 2006 10:48 AM     profile     
POCO and Rusty Young 1970! Single neck ZBeautiful!!!!!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbNU8GsGoH8
Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 08 August 2006 06:44 PM     profile     
I got my ZB ysterday, I finally got a chance to set it up, stay tuned, I'm sure that I'll have a ton of questions!
Ron Thompson
Member

From: Bridgeton, N.J. USA

posted 16 August 2006 12:36 PM     profile     
Joe,

Just came across this topic. I have serial #1126 built in May of '68. It has tone to die for, I know you'll love yours.

Ron

Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 16 August 2006 12:46 PM     profile     
Hey Ron,
Yeah, I spent the better part of Saturday cleaning and restringing it, it sounds great, there are a couple knee lever changes that I'd like to make, but I figured that I should leave that to the experts. Which finish do you have?
Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 16 August 2006 04:29 PM     profile     
#1107 was built in Feb.68. I have it.
Chuck McGill
Member

From: Jackson, Tn

posted 18 August 2006 06:21 AM     profile     
My D10 is 1067. What year Kevin?
Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 18 August 2006 06:47 AM     profile     
67. Thats really a collectable Chuck. Have you restored it? Those 60's ZB's just reak with tone.
Chuck McGill
Member

From: Jackson, Tn

posted 18 August 2006 07:47 AM     profile     
Kevin I have done a little work to put my
set up on it and it's my main axe now. I need a case. Maybe we should talk.
Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 18 August 2006 03:14 PM     profile     
Here's one for the ZB pros out there... how difficult is it to change the set-up on my knee levers?
Russ Tkac
Member

From: Waterford, Michigan, USA

posted 18 August 2006 04:45 PM     profile     
Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha!
Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 18 August 2006 08:42 PM     profile     
C'mon Russ be kind. The reason why Russ is laughing Joe is because it is not easy if you don't know what you are doing. You need to take it to a ZB mechanic. The pulls have to be equalized and stabilized.
richard burton
Member

From: Britain

posted 18 August 2006 10:45 PM     profile     
The ZB will still function, not perfectly, but good enough, without equalizing and stabilising the pulls, in my opinion.

Take a long look at the mechanics of a ZB, it's all very basic stuff, simple but effective, certainly not rocket science

Russ Tkac
Member

From: Waterford, Michigan, USA

posted 19 August 2006 01:05 AM     profile     
Sorry Joe it was just a little humor.

I talked to Billy Knowles on the phone last year and he told me if they were easy to work on they'd still be in business.

If you have a question I'd send an email to Greg Jones. He has helped me a great deal with set up questions and he really knows his stuff!

Oh...cussin' helps...

Pat Kelly
Member

From: Wentworthville, New South Wales, Australia

posted 19 August 2006 12:05 PM     profile     
This could be a whole topic on its own! I'm aware that I need to (try to) set up the pulls so that two pulls operating together "close" at the same time. I assume that's whats meant by "equalising." What do we mean in this context by "stabilising?" This is a subject I would like to see more posts on preferably with some practical tips .......perhaps diagrams etc.

Anybody?

pat

Brendan Mitchell
Member

From: Melbourne Australia

posted 20 August 2006 09:54 PM     profile     
Yeah , you and a lot of other people Pat , including me , i'm first in line .
Brendan
Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 20 August 2006 11:14 PM     profile     
The end plate tuners on a ZB have a tendency to loosen up over time and get sloppy. If they do (and I have seen many) one way to remedy this is to crimp the tuner with a pair of nippers or the back half of a pair of needle nose pliers half way down the tuner shaft. If those end plate tuners are loose, every time you press a pedal or knee lever the tuner can creep out of tune making the guitar unstable. The guitar just won't stay in tune.Once the end plate tuner is crimped it will hold snug. The problem is that you can't crimp the tuner too hard or you will never get it back on the finger. Also if you crimp it too hard and screw it back on and try to force it you can snap the weld on the finger and then you are really screwed. Which is why I suggest you take it to a ZB mechanic. You can also use lock tight but it will be more temporary.
Lyle Clary
Member

From: Decatur, Illinois, USA

posted 22 August 2006 04:39 PM     profile     
Chuck McGill, I have a 1969 D10 Serial # 0154. The case is black covered plywood with a blue interior.

------------------
1969 ZB Custom D10, BMI S10, 1981 Peavy Musician Mark III, 15 Inch Black Widow, custom enclosure

Chuck McGill
Member

From: Jackson, Tn

posted 23 August 2006 05:52 AM     profile     
Thanks Lyle. I have a case that's worse for wear that's kinda wierd. I may have to get a case from Kevin.
Ron Thompson
Member

From: Bridgeton, N.J. USA

posted 23 August 2006 05:07 PM     profile     
Joe,

My ZB is the same color as yours. I know you will enjoy it. Any questions contact Greg Jones he is the master and a great guy also.

Ron

Lyle Clary
Member

From: Decatur, Illinois, USA

posted 25 August 2006 09:14 AM     profile     
Kevin, On an earlier page, away ,way back it was recommended not to crimp the tuner nut but to use a medium grade of LOC-TITE.

------------------
1969 ZB Custom D10, BMI S10, 1981 Peavy Musician Mark III, 15 Inch Black Widow, custom enclosure

Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 25 August 2006 10:05 AM     profile     
I recommend either. I've done both. It depends on personal preference. I like crimping because its permanent, but you have to have a feel for it because you can't crimp it too hard. When you crimp it just right its just snug but still adjustable.
Larry Chung
Member

From: San Francisco, CA, USA

posted 25 August 2006 01:36 PM     profile     
Hey Fellow ZBers:

Hope you're all enjoying the summer (or at least the end of it). Just a little helpful hint that I happened upon the other night.

I noticed that the pickups on my 1970s D-10 were a little far from the strings, so, being the resourceful ZB mechanic that I am, I loosened the strings, unscrewed the pickups and added a small length (1/8") of small rubber tubing to the existing rubber tubing around each of the pickup mounting screws. I think Greg Jones had told me about this trick before - the original rubber tubing shrinks with age, and, as a result, the pickup can sit a little lower than optimal. Well, 45 minutes later, I have a louder signal (which means more hum, too) on both necks, and, by bringing the coil closer to the strings, what I believe is a warmer tone, too.

A disclaimer, too - it's still nowhere near as warm as my '67 D-10. Rubber or not. That's still got a LOAF of tone.

Update - I've moved the pickup closer on my S-11, too, and the results are lovely. Still, both the D-10 and S-11 are not quite as warm and full and the '67 D-10... Zane-wound pickups!!!

Just my two and a half cents. Hope this is helpful!

ZBest,
Larry

[This message was edited by Larry Chung on 28 August 2006 at 12:54 PM.]

Kevin Hatton
Member

From: Amherst, N.Y.

posted 25 August 2006 10:20 PM     profile     
Just to remind everyone. I have polished ADJUSTABLE aluminum replacement knee levers for ZB steels. They are $99.95 each. Repositioning and adding these knee levers makes the guitar much more playable. I also have ZB fret boards in both black and white.
Joe A. Camacho
Member

From: San Diego, CA

posted 02 September 2006 11:23 PM     profile     
bump
Mickey McGee
Member

From: Arizona, USA

posted 03 September 2006 12:22 AM     profile     
SmileyCentral.com
Pat Kelly
Member

From: Wentworthville, New South Wales, Australia

posted 03 September 2006 05:53 PM     profile     
Can we take that to mean that Mickey is exhausted from hearing about ZB guitars, plain fed up with this post or is there some other esoteric message far too meaningful for my meagre intellect?

PK

Uh Uh the penny has dropped. It was a hot day in Arizona. Sorry guys.

[This message was edited by Pat Kelly on 03 September 2006 at 05:57 PM.]


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